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Centering a hub and bolt circle

Marc1122

Plastic
Joined
Dec 28, 2017
I am working on an antique car hub I had to weld the stud holes closed and turn it down for a new application. I need to drill a new bolt circle but am not sure how to do it since it is not a flat piece. I have a milk but no DRO. Thanks for any input
 
No idea what a milk is.

Use a rotary table and an end mill in a knee mill (like a Bridgeport). Divide 360 by the number of holes you want to locate each by the table's degree markings.
 
If you don't have a rotary table, calculate each hole center, find the center of your hub and use those dial things on the machine to move to each hole center and drill/bore the new holes. Millions of parts have been made on machines with no DRO. If you struggle with finding the hole centers, I'm sure there is a bolt circle calculator out on the web somewhere.
 
...There are bolt circle formula in the Machineries Handbook to calculate X-Y positions of the holes...

Years ago I created a bunch of spreadsheets for various bolt circles. Machinery's Handbook lists
the coordinates for circles with a diameter of "1" so with the spreadsheet you enter the diameter in
one cell and it calculates all the values for the required diameter. Takes a bit of work to enter all the
numbers the first time but once you have it you can use it for any diameter. I've used it long enough
that I have spreadsheets for most of the common bold circles--I even made one up for a 23 holer...
 
Assuming you know how to find the center of the hub and use the hand wheel dials to measure x and y offsets from there, post the bolt circle radius and number of holes and I'll do the trig for you.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
 
Assuming you know how to find the center of the hub and use the hand wheel dials to measure x and y offsets from there, post the bolt circle radius and number of holes and I'll do the trig for you.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

Hey! That's not fair!:)
 
I'll be hknest...if I had to use just the dials I'd bring it to someone who had a dro...or buy one

When I first started we didn't have the luxury of dro's.

You used dykem on the ways and a scribe to draw lines, arrows and numbers to make sure you had the slack going in the right direction. Saved having to count the number of revolutions. It wasn't that hard when that's the only way you knew.

Of course that was just slightly past caveman time! :)
 
November '64 to August '68 in East Hartford (less than four years to do the 8000 hours) - but the name rings no bells.
Ah. ITW ran a school, too. It was great. Looks like P&W used some of their stuff. Much shorter term but pretty intensive. Bob Moderow was the ringmaster.

Congrats on the certs, by the way. Those are pretty, and I bet they made you work for them !
 
And before all the nice ready made stuff we were just expected to do it ourselves:D

View attachment 325544

I think I have one of those laying somewhere - was my dad's. He didn't work for P&W but he did a ton of work for them. He was basically the lead machinist at United Tool & Die in West Hartford for many decades. He retired when he was 78. He officially ran the Jig Bore Department but did a lot more. That's where I got started - P&W Jig Borers.............
 
Maybe I`d do down and dirty approach. If you have access to any 2D cad, draw that pattern with dots, print 1:1 cut any reliefs for hub nut if any. Then tape it or glue it over the hub. Center punch by using the printed dots. In the mill using pointed edge finder locate punched dents and that`s it. Not super accurate, but should be enough for wheel bolts..
Just my 0.02 cents..
 








 
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