Centering a hub and bolt circle
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  1. #1
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    Default Centering a hub and bolt circle

    I am working on an antique car hub I had to weld the stud holes closed and turn it down for a new application. I need to drill a new bolt circle but am not sure how to do it since it is not a flat piece. I have a milk but no DRO. Thanks for any input

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    I am trying to ad a photo of the hub

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    No idea what a milk is.

    Use a rotary table and an end mill in a knee mill (like a Bridgeport). Divide 360 by the number of holes you want to locate each by the table's degree markings.

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    Misspelled. Should have been mill

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    If you don't have a rotary table, calculate each hole center, find the center of your hub and use those dial things on the machine to move to each hole center and drill/bore the new holes. Millions of parts have been made on machines with no DRO. If you struggle with finding the hole centers, I'm sure there is a bolt circle calculator out on the web somewhere.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc1122 View Post
    . . . I have a milk but no DRO. . .
    Without a DRO, you'll definitely need to step up to Pepsi. There is a utility that will generate X,Y moves you can make with the dials once you get the hub centered. I'll try to find it but its been a long time since I used it.

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    Transfer from another wheel?

    There are bolt circle formula in the Machineries Handbook to calculate X-Y positions of the holes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fciron View Post
    ...There are bolt circle formula in the Machineries Handbook to calculate X-Y positions of the holes...
    Years ago I created a bunch of spreadsheets for various bolt circles. Machinery's Handbook lists
    the coordinates for circles with a diameter of "1" so with the spreadsheet you enter the diameter in
    one cell and it calculates all the values for the required diameter. Takes a bit of work to enter all the
    numbers the first time but once you have it you can use it for any diameter. I've used it long enough
    that I have spreadsheets for most of the common bold circles--I even made one up for a 23 holer...

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    And before all the nice ready made stuff we were just expected to do it ourselves

    20210729_131512.jpg

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    Assuming you know how to find the center of the hub and use the hand wheel dials to measure x and y offsets from there, post the bolt circle radius and number of holes and I'll do the trig for you.

    Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by jerholz View Post
    Assuming you know how to find the center of the hub and use the hand wheel dials to measure x and y offsets from there, post the bolt circle radius and number of holes and I'll do the trig for you.

    Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk
    Hey! That's not fair!

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    I'll be honest...if I had to use just the dials I'd bring it to someone who had a dro...or buy one
    Last edited by plastikdreams; 07-30-2021 at 05:06 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    20210729_131512.jpg
    Did you go through that ? Bob Moderow ? Those guys were great. Still have fond memories.

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    Quote Originally Posted by plastikdreams View Post
    I'll be hknest...if I had to use just the dials I'd bring it to someone who had a dro...or buy one
    When I first started we didn't have the luxury of dro's.

    You used dykem on the ways and a scribe to draw lines, arrows and numbers to make sure you had the slack going in the right direction. Saved having to count the number of revolutions. It wasn't that hard when that's the only way you knew.

    Of course that was just slightly past caveman time!

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanuelGoldstein View Post
    Did you go through that ? Bob Moderow ? Those guys were great. Still have fond memories.

    November '64 to August '68 in East Hartford (less than four years to do the 8000 hours) - but the name rings no bells. "Class" names MA 32 and T&D 16

    scan01.jpgscan02.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    November '64 to August '68 in East Hartford (less than four years to do the 8000 hours) - but the name rings no bells.
    Ah. ITW ran a school, too. It was great. Looks like P&W used some of their stuff. Much shorter term but pretty intensive. Bob Moderow was the ringmaster.

    Congrats on the certs, by the way. Those are pretty, and I bet they made you work for them !

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    And before all the nice ready made stuff we were just expected to do it ourselves

    20210729_131512.jpg
    Ditto. Even got the same exact book.

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    And before all the nice ready made stuff we were just expected to do it ourselves

    20210729_131512.jpg
    I think I have one of those laying somewhere - was my dad's. He didn't work for P&W but he did a ton of work for them. He was basically the lead machinist at United Tool & Die in West Hartford for many decades. He retired when he was 78. He officially ran the Jig Bore Department but did a lot more. That's where I got started - P&W Jig Borers.............

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    Maybe I`d do down and dirty approach. If you have access to any 2D cad, draw that pattern with dots, print 1:1 cut any reliefs for hub nut if any. Then tape it or glue it over the hub. Center punch by using the printed dots. In the mill using pointed edge finder locate punched dents and that`s it. Not super accurate, but should be enough for wheel bolts..
    Just my 0.02 cents..

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    November '64 to August '68 in East Hartford (less than four years to do the 8000 hours) - but the name rings no bells. "Class" names MA 32 and T&D 16

    scan01.jpgscan02.jpg
    That's pretty cool, we make parts for p&w engines.


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