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Cinder Block Wall: How to install VMC through it

cosmos_275

Hot Rolled
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Jun 9, 2015
Not completely unrelated to my recent thread on being jacked, I'm looking at possibly moving into a new building. I'm friends with the lady who owns it. Her business has been closed and might rent the place to me. One issue is getting machines in the place. It has 3 man doors. The driveway is narrowish and there's a cinder block wall along the driveway that I'm looking at as an entry point. Ceiling inside is 8'6". I figure knock a hole in the wall, fork the Speedio (S500) onto something, then skate it in the hole.

Any recommendations on a door to install that doesn't take a lot of headroom? Alternatively, I could replace the wall and paint over it, but moving out or getting another machine in would be hard.

The machine probably needs a full 96" of door height and 64" wide (tight). Seems a double steel door won't have the height: example
 
Is 8’6” tall enough for your Z axis at top?
Seems pretty low. My rather small VMC couldn’t fit in there.
 
Just haul off and "knock a hole in the wall" ???

Need to support the stuff above it.

Might as well put in a header first, and then sawcut/knock out the block.

Fashion a steel cover if a door is not wanted there.
 
I would cut into the ceiling if need be. Looks like 8'3" in tool change position (cable track highest)

I could also cut out the roof and crane it in, but I figure that would make the rigging cost go way up.
 
Best advice would be ... Wait for it....





Find another location unless you're going to buy the building.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
Cinder Block Wall: How to install VMC through it''

Waving machinists magic wand (aka 6'' rule) incant ''Eeny meeny miny mo, through the wall you go'' tap VMC with wand and say ''abracadabra''
 
Drive the fork truck really fast.......


I think they make 8 foot tall swinging doors, check with a real lumberyard

I think the low overhead garage doors will almost do that
 
I would knock it out for the VMC, Put a header up and get a steel double door with a glass window overhead like in some schools. That way when you take it out it would hopefully be easier to get out.
 
Here's the wall. This place comes with a sweet attack cat. I like digger's idea. Paste over it with steel with the ability to unbolt it occasionally for big stuff. I will call around for pro to cut it if this goes through. I was think buy a saw and do it myself: Error | DNS Resolution | Northern Tool + Equipment


20200901_091115.jpg

Running along side the building is a driveway with a curb nearest the camera, so a forklift can't go straight in. It's have to come up the drive, set it down, then skate 90 degrees to the right. Thanks
 
First question that comes to mind is which way does the roof framing run? If the rafters (actually joists on a flat roof) run parallel to the wall you want to cut just cut the wall and rebuild the edge of the roof with wood. If the ends of the joists are supported by that wall it gets more involved; you will need to support the roof before you cut the wall then install an I beam resting in pockets cut in the block on each side of the opening to support the ends of the joists. It gets even more involved if you can't give up the eight inches or so that the beam will take from the height of the opening. If you do the opening install a double door at least 6' wide. You'll use it more than think you will.
Dennis
 
First question that comes to mind is which way does the roof framing run? If the rafters (actually joists on a flat roof) run parallel to the wall you want to cut just cut the wall and rebuild the edge of the roof with wood. If the ends of the joists are supported by that wall it gets more involved; you will need to support the roof before you cut the wall then install an I beam resting in pockets cut in the block on each side of the opening to support the ends of the joists. It gets even more involved if you can't give up the eight inches or so that the beam will take from the height of the opening. If you do the opening install a double door at least 6' wide. You'll use it more than think you will.
Dennis

The rafters are 2x8 wood. There was a hole in the ceiling on the other side so I got to see them (roof was leaking). I can't remember which way they ran. Building is 1960's vintage. Yeah, I was guessing first cut out wide rectangle and install I beam. Cut#2 less wide for door. Thanks for the input
 
The rafters are 2x8 wood. There was a hole in the ceiling on the other side so I got to see them (roof was leaking). I can't remember which way they ran. Building is 1960's vintage. Yeah, I was guessing first cut out wide rectangle and install I beam. Cut#2 less wide for door. Thanks for the input

Why go to all the trouble to modify this POS building to be a machine shop ?
 








 
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