clogged Gits oiler

Raul McCai · Jul 23, 2018

I mean Clogged. I can apply vacuum or pressure and not much moves.
It's on a 14" Rockwell lathe
One of the oilers on top of the quick change box closest to the headstock.
I can apply pressure and I get a pressure blast back when I release same with vacuum.
I'm thinking of applying some kind of solvent.
Thing is solvent will demolish any lubrication value so I won't be able to run the machine till I've got it cleared and flushed.
I tried a copper wire - it just jams at the first Ell

What would you do?

JST · Jul 23, 2018

Why not just pop it out, then clear the blocked lube channel, and put in a new oiler? You can get them from various sources..... The oiler is one of the pop-in ball oilers?

Screwing in a drywall screw and yanking usually gets it out.

thermite · Jul 23, 2018

Raul McCai said:
I mean Clogged. I can apply vacuum or pressure and not much moves.
It's on a 14" Rockwell lathe
One of the oilers on top of the quick change box closest to the headstock.
I can apply pressure and I get a pressure blast back when I release same with vacuum.
I'm thinking of applying some kind of solvent.
Thing is solvent will demolish any lubrication value so I won't be able to run the machine till I've got it cleared and flushed.
I tried a copper wire - it just jams at the first Ell

What would you do?

Simple. Replace it. Gits oilers were - and remain - commodity items.

You need to get it out in any case. Something nasty lurks under it.

Raul McCai · Jul 23, 2018

thermite said:
Simple. Replace it. Gits oilers were - and remain - commodity items.

You need to get it out in any case. Something nasty lurks under it.

great thought but the blockage is beyond the oiler itself. If I had to guess I'd say somewhere inside the old oil turned to paste and is blocking a small weep hole.

I have tried a wound guitar string in the hope that it might navigate what ever bends there are.

There is a possibility that there are no bends. I don't know what component this oiler feeds. It is located directly above a jackshaft and it's logical that this might be for that shaft. I'll try a small extra length drill and see if I can feel a smaller hole.
the Manual is unhelpful.

Technical Ted · Jul 23, 2018

Is the Grits plugged or is it the oil channel the Grits goes into? I've cleaned oil channels out sometimes by twisting a drill bit into it by hand or with a pair of pliers. The flutes on the drill bit will bring a lot of the crud out. One way or the other you need to get it cleaned out. That might even mean removing your QCGB and doing some disassembly. I totally disassembled mine on my SB 13" and replaced all the oil wicks.

So, what would I do? Whatever I had to to make sure it and all the other oil channels were clean and properly functioning.

Ted

DDoug · Jul 23, 2018

Of course, get that Gits out of there.

I would as above start with drill bits.

After cleaning the main channel, I would entertain tapping the hole
so I could install a Zerk.

Oil filled (light or kero) grease gun can develope pretty high pressure.

When done, remove the Zerk, and tap in a fresh Gits.

thermite · Jul 23, 2018

Raul McCai said:
great thought but the blockage is beyond the oiler itself. If I had to guess I'd say somewhere inside the old oil turned to paste and is blocking a small weep hole.

I have tried a wound guitar string in the hope that it might navigate what ever bends there are.

There is a possibility that there are no bends. I don't know what component this oiler feeds. It is located directly above a jackshaft and it's logical that this might be for that shaft. I'll try a small extra length drill and see if I can feel a smaller hole.
the Manual is unhelpful.

There is NOTHING remotely "new" about this situation.

Most times when the first go fails, one can get to the end FASTER by going directly to a tear-down so you can get mechanical or chemical "tools" right ONTO the source of the problem faster.

One can even estimate the wall-clock hours that tear-down / re-assemble will require.

There IS NO "upper bound" for how many wall-clock hours f*****g-around with git-har strings can consume and still accomplish no more than square-root-of-jack-squat.

DDoug · Jul 23, 2018

thermite said:
There is NOTHING remotely "new" about this situation.

Most times when the first go fails, one can get to the end FASTER by going directly to a tear-down so you can get mechanical or chemical "tools" right ONTO the source of the problem faster.

One can even estimate the wall-clock hours that tear-down / re-assemble will require.

There IS NO "upper bound" for how many wall-clock hours f*****g-around with git-har strings can consume and still accomplish no more than square-root-of-jack-squat.

Or.....You've got the upper straight section cleaned out....start stuffing in
some black powder...and don't forget the fuse cord....

thermite · Jul 23, 2018

digger doug said:
Or.....You've got the upper straight section cleaned out....start stuffing in
some black powder...and don't forget the fuse cord....

Y'know what? That would just shatter the casting.

One could stuff dead-average lube-system cootie-shit into one end of a length of stout-as-Hell high-alloy steel "hydraulic" tubing, load a powder charge and a cannon-ball into the other end. When touched-off, the cannon ball exits at a great rate of knots whilst the cootie-shit likely just compresses on the long-axis, grabs tighter radially, and stays in the bore.

Much the same as trying to "shoot out" mud in a battle-rifle bore. Been known to blow the end of the barrel off, and/or splay it open like a flower. Seldom does any sort of "kindness" to the shooter - or anyone else in-range, either.

All that said, I'm not the only one here to harbour a gadget meant to clear the downstrwam of Alamite Zerk fittings.

Fill with oil or clean grease. Smack with hammer.

Taking it apart is wiser.

Where's that s**t going to GO, and who said the new home was an improvement?

DDoug · Jul 23, 2018

So your more of an RDX kind of guy ?.....

4GSR · Jul 23, 2018

On my 14" Rockwell lathe, those three Gitts oilers on top of the QCGB, they go directly to the bushings that the internal shafts run on. There are no troughs or piping to would take oil to other oiling points. The two Gitts oil cups next to the head stock, i can insert a 1/8 Allen wrench into the hole and bottoms out at the bushing at about 1-1/2" deep. The third one that feeds the feed rod, nearest you, I can get the Allen wrench down about 2-1/4" against the bushing. All three of mine leak oil when filled, in a couple of hours.

Ken

thermite · Jul 23, 2018

digger doug said:
So your more of an RDX kind of guy ?.....

Nah. Whiskey Three One

duckfarmer27 · Jul 23, 2018

thermite said:
Nah. Whiskey Three One

Right Bill - I remember that class as well.

Dale

thermite · Jul 23, 2018

duckfarmer27 said:
Right Bill - I remember that class as well.

Dale

W-31 warshots were not much good at puttin' fish, fowl, or red meat in a freezer, were they?

Like to think all those tax dollars at least got recycled into "fuel" that generated electricity, but that's prolly wishful thinking.

Bill D · Jul 23, 2018

Many folks replace the gits ball oiler with a flip top cup oiler if that will not get in the way.
Bill D.

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