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Countersink Angles

LadyKat13

Plastic
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
I'm hoping that you guys can provide a little insight.:scratchchin:

I have a new component that is essentially the design child of an existing component. It is attached with flat head screws (82 degree angle) but the countersink that they sit in is 90 degrees. I find that I have copied this mismatch in my new component, and I am wondering if there are any foreseeable problems likely to occur because of this. Both components being attached are anodized aluminum and the screws are alloy steel.

My thanks in advance!
 
Ladycat,
90 degree countersinks are the correct angle for metric
flat head screws. Any chance the thread size could be altered? Using an 82 degree flat head screw may allow the screw to easily loosen as there is not much engagement. Is there enough material to plunge the 82 c'sink a bit deeper to allow a better match up for the angles?
spaeth
 
The angles should match.
Otherwise you only have line contact under the head.
That compromises the strength of the joint.

Just saying on a #0 screw the difference is only .002 in. You have more variation in the cold headed countersink screw.
The plastic deformation of the screw head and mating countersink will take care of the small errors.

If you are using a #10 the 4° per side will effect fastener performance.
 
The angles should match.
Otherwise you only have line contact under the head.
That compromises the strength of the joint.

I wonder if that is true.

If you have more than one hole they all can't be in alignment in X-Y.
Plus add in the tolerance on the c-sink and the screw head and perfect fit becomes just about impossible.
That Al is gonna deform somewhat when the faster is torqued unlike carbide.
Oh wait, carbide insert screws holes are designed to be line contact. Perhaps joint strength does not matter for such.

No one (except me in a this is what we have case) would ever put a FHCS into a straight hole but if you did and torqued would the joint be weak?
In this both the screw and the material are gonna yield and never be the same but the axial "spring" pressure or bolt stretch remains.

Not nice, makes screws one time use, torque should be higher for the added head/hole friction/galling.
Not sure about a working performance problem.
Bob
 
Your 82 deg screws are making INITIAL contact with that 90 deg countersink only near the screw's shank. When you tighten them, depending on the alloy, the aluminum will probably distort to conform to the screw head and all will be well. But if it a hard aluminum alloy and the torque is not very large, then they will continue to make their primary contact near the screw's shank. But, if the torque is light, then this seems to argue that the forces are light and that this mismatched contact may be OK. BUT, of course, a properly machined hole that matches the screw is unarguably best.

As for the difference being negligible, In screw sizes larger than #0, I have seen gaps around the heads of 82 deg screws in 90 deg holes. My conclusion from this is that it is not negligible.

As for modifying the existing countersinks, if your screw heads are presently flush with the surface and you go over them with an 82 deg countersink, then the screw heads will be below that surface. This may or may not be acceptable in your situation.

As I said, a properly machined hole that matches the screw is unarguably best. So you, and all of us, should have both 82 and 90 deg countersinks.

One more thought on this comment by Booze Daily, "If they are countersunk to the dia of the screw head they won’t be flush after assembly." I strongly disagree. Screw heads are always rounded or otherwise dressed back from a sharp edge. If you rely on the diameter of the head for determining the diameter of the countersink, the screw heads will sit proud (above) the surface. You always need to go deeper than the screw head's diameter would suggest. Even the tables of screw sizes often list the actual diameter and not the theoretical diameter of a sharp edge. In practice, I simply bring a typical screw to the drill press or mill while I am countersinking and test the depth with that screw. Perhaps not the best procedure, but it does work. And if the angle of the screw is correct, then that procedure should work for other CS screws, from different batches or manufacturers.



I'm hoping that you guys can provide a little insight.:scratchchin:

I have a new component that is essentially the design child of an existing component. It is attached with flat head screws (82 degree angle) but the countersink that they sit in is 90 degrees. I find that I have copied this mismatch in my new component, and I am wondering if there are any foreseeable problems likely to occur because of this. Both components being attached are anodized aluminum and the screws are alloy steel.

My thanks in advance!
 
My thanks for your input.:Ithankyou:

Additional information:
There are a total of 8 screws (alloy steel), 2 on each quadrant 45° angle around two concentric parts (anodized aluminum). The surface that the countersink sits in is not flat but rather multiple angles approximating a round surface. The head of the FHCS sits below all exposed surfaces. The countersink holes are also not (real) holes but rather small slots. The cutter travel is relatively small (only .050) but enough to allow some adjustment of spacing prior to "locking down" the position by tightening the screws. For proper assembly the instructions call for the screws to be tightened in a pattern similar to how you would tighten lug nuts.
 
My thanks for your input.:Ithankyou:

Additional information:
There are a total of 8 screws (alloy steel), 2 on each quadrant 45° angle around two concentric parts (anodized aluminum). The surface that the countersink sits in is not flat but rather multiple angles approximating a round surface. The head of the FHCS sits below all exposed surfaces. The countersink holes are also not (real) holes but rather small slots. The cutter travel is relatively small (only .050) but enough to allow some adjustment of spacing prior to "locking down" the position by tightening the screws. For proper assembly the instructions call for the screws to be tightened in a pattern similar to how you would tighten lug nuts.

Don't screw up next time
Wouldn't sweat this time
 








 
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