Cutting .002 Thick Solder Sheet - Possible w/ Laser, Waterjet, or EDM?

Is it possible to waterjet, edm, or laser cut thin sheets of solder to odd shapes?

I work for a company that develops laser systems. And one of the materials we use between bolted interface components to improve thermal conductivity are small sheets of .002 thick tin-lead solder (63% tin/37% lead). Most of the time we just use a couple pieces and its usually a rectangular shape and some clearance holes we cut w/ a straightedge, x-acto knife, and some hole punches. Pieces usually range from about a ½” square piece to a couple inches square, rectangular, or odd shape. But nothing more than 4-6 inch on the longest length. We get the raw solder in sheets & rolls 1-3” wide or thereabouts.

If the pattern is a little complicated we might have a template cut out of alum where we run an x-acto knife around the template to cut out. Works good enough, and we generally only need a couple pieces. We have even machined patterns with the sheet sandwiched between alum. Works fine, but is expensive. Working on a project were I will need some slightly complex shapes created and in quantities “more than a few”. So researching what might be possible via laser, waterjet, or edm. If that would be better/cheaper than hand cutting or machining sandwiched between alum sheet.

My concern w/ laser & edm is the solder would melt and the edges would thicken up. So wondering if water jet might be a better option. Anyone ever cut solder sheet? Can you recommend a process or someone w/ experience w/ that material?

Thanks,

Mark Long

Check out X-Y CNC tables with carbide or diamond coated ultrasonic knives. Similar to what's used to cut composite sheets. No fumes or sputtered material like you could get from laser, no issues disposing of filters loaded with lead as with EDM, no handling issues like with waterjet.

Ultrasonic Cutting on a Multi-Axis CNC Machine -- Dukane Ultrasonics - YouTube

My next step would be a laser with a very good fume collection system, but I don't know what wavelength would work on solder.

Are you actually brazing the parts together, is that the reason for using solder sheets?

I'm thinking maybe you could use a less hazardous material like a soft copper foil instead, if such a thing exists. Waterjet may be able to cut stacks of parts at a time with a suitable sandwich type holding method.

Could you just cut out the holes where needed and simple rough shape for outside then put together and use you knife to trim off the excess?

Milland said:

Check out X-Y CNC tables with carbide or diamond coated ultrasonic knives. Similar to what's used to cut composite sheets. No fumes or sputtered material like you could get from laser, no issues disposing of filters loaded with lead as with EDM, no handling issues like with waterjet.

Ultrasonic Cutting on a Multi-Axis CNC Machine -- Dukane Ultrasonics - YouTube

My next step would be a laser with a very good fume collection system, but I don't know what wavelength would work on solder.

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Not to downplay what these guys have accomplished, but after having collaborated on the design and started up of a 55-Axis ultrasonic carbon fiber cutting system with 6 energized knives that appear to cut at about 10x the speed shown in that video . . . that thing looks like a toy.

My experience with waterjet systems on stacked laminates is that unless clamped really well, the waterjet can "delaminate" the stack during piercing so you need to pre-drill the start point or always start at an edge.

Waterjet would not be my first choice. Along with delamination mentioned by Motion Guru, the waterjet tends to push a burr on the bottom edge of the cut. If that matters, you won't like the result. Also, cutting lead on a waterjet puts lead particles into the catch tank. This can cause heavy metals to be found in the water leaving the tank and in the sludge that gets removed from the tank later. Heavy metals in the water going down the drain might raise some red flags, and heavy metals in the sludge turn it into toxic waste, which means it will cost a lot of money to get rid of it. The waterjet shop will probably charge accordingly.

Although a waterjet could cut this, most places would probably avoid it due to the lead content.

How about Die Cutting.



Die Cutting, Stamping & Press Forming

I do use a waterjet to cut thin foils, though not directly. I cut the shape out of a rectangular piece of steel sheet, about 1/4" or thicker and keep both cut pieces (the "inside" and the "outside"). Once the nested pieces are placed on a flat backing plate (another steel rectangle of same size) I force into the kerf a thin strip of spring steel wider than the cut metal so the edge stands above creating a cutting die. For some foil materials, like Mylar and Kapton, I slightly grind the spring's edge (on belt sander) before insertion to create a knife like edge. Soft materials like indium or lead cut without if if placed against a hard surface - often hardwood end-grain or lead block. Smaller shapes will cut easily using a hand press, but larger patterns might need more pressure.

Steel rule die cut or other die cut die with a light press? I haven't had this done for a while and that was for leather but 0.002 lead solder should be dead soft and easily die cut. For the size die, material thickness and quantities (say under 100 at a go) a simple manual press should suffice. The dies are not very expensive though you would have to research that as it has been a while since I had this set up and done.

Man, you gotta be fast with your typing around here!

+1 on die cut. BTW, I've used thin soft metal for gasketing and found that pure tin works well, thereby avoiding the lead issues. The high vacuum people sometimes use indium wire, but I suspect it's expensive.

Solder is so soft that almost anything will cut it. Die cutting is what came to my mind. The quantities here seem to be small so you could probably have a printing house make a hand held one and just stamp them out.

lionelt said:

How about Die Cutting.



Die Cutting, Stamping & Press Forming

Click to expand...

Steel rule die cutting should get very cost effective when you get into even small X 100 quantities. By the thousands it’ll be cheap. Imagine card-stock tags with strings, fancy greeting cards with windows or angled cuts and similar paper products.

Quantities will be nowhere near "100's". I have 6 different pieces where I will need 8 of each plus a spare or two for each. Sounds like a template & x-acto knive will remain my friends.

What about a pancake die? Simple to design and have it lasered. Only problem is it wont do internal holes.

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Maybe a drag knife type setup like used to cut vinyl?

To cut thin items like rubber gasket material that moves a lot i clamp it between plyboard by bolting around the edge and cut the ply and parts as if they are one.
It takes a little setup time to do this.

That is on a water jet.

This negates some if not all the piercing blowouts, longer leadins can help and low pressure pierce if required will help if your in a tight spot.

As its super fiddly doing this time adds up so does the cost. Generally eats a lot of time for little parts, the actual cutting not so much time, setup is the killer.

Unless it gets complex quick stick with the exacto knife i think thats best and cheapest.
The drag knife option may work and worth investigation i think as well.

billzweig said:

I do use a waterjet to cut thin foils, though not directly. I cut the shape out of a rectangular piece of steel sheet, about 1/4" or thicker and keep both cut pieces (the "inside" and the "outside"). Once the nested pieces are placed on a flat backing plate (another steel rectangle of same size) I force into the kerf a thin strip of spring steel wider than the cut metal so the edge stands above creating a cutting die. For some foil materials, like Mylar and Kapton, I slightly grind the spring's edge (on belt sander) before insertion to create a knife like edge. Soft materials like indium or lead cut without if if placed against a hard surface - often hardwood end-grain or lead block. Smaller shapes will cut easily using a hand press, but larger patterns might need more pressure.

Click to expand...

I use similar method to cut 0.002 copper shims on EDM: sandwitch with about .2 plates on both sides screwed together and then i drill pilot holes on mill if needed. Good think is between aluminium plates i can insert 20-100 copper shims. Working great