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cutting 5.187" hole in an electrical cabnet under power?

i_r_machinist

Titanium
Joined
Apr 12, 2007
Location
Dublin Texas
Replaceing outdated switches in several cabnets. I need to cut a 5.187" hole in an electrical cabnet under power. It will have a 4.145" hole in that location from the existing switch. Can't take the door off and do it on a mill. I can have zero chips inside the cabnet. Even if I could find the right size knockout, the cabnet metal may be too thick for it, at 10 gauge. I can't find a hole saw that size.
Any ideas?
thanks
i_r_
 
What voltage are we talking about? The hole needs to be in a door? If so, I presume the door can be opened. If the door can be opened, open it and erect a temporary shield/barrier to keep contamination and people out of the electricals. Make an appropriate circle template and burn the hole with a plasma cutter or O/A torch.

If I've got the circumstances all wrong, some pictures could help.

In the alternative, can I be your beneficiary? :D
 
I can't and won't recommend doing any work with the power on. That said, I have a Milwaukee hydraulic punch that would do that. I recently did some small and large holes like that and will never again drill anything but the start hole. Period.
 
Perhaps try to find a nibbler that'll do 10ga, if that's the thickness. Strong magnet should catch all the nibbles. You can work your way out from the existing 4+" hole.

There are also short-blade power shears that would also do the curve in a "mostly" chip-free fashion. (Use the magnet again.) Two blades, like a throatless shear, only about 3/8" cutting edge. Don't know if they turn both ways, and don't know if you have a nearby wall to worry about.

Chip
 
Depower the machine and lock it off. It's just breathtakingly foolish to make 5" holes in a powered control cabinet.

Open the cabinet door and mask off the contents with heavy kraft paper and tape. Put a smallish carbide burr in a laminate trimmer. Make a Masonite or hardboard template to guide the laminate trimmer; don't forget the "tool offset" of the trimmer body to centerline. Affix the template to the door. Block the door into its open position so you don't have to keep one hand on the door. Manually guide the trimmer around the template perimeter.
 
Any way to modify the new switch so that it fits in the old hole? Do NOT attempt to cut a hole in it while under power. Even with the best of precautions there is too much potential for disaster.

JMHO

-Ron
 
However it's done, the physical work should be done by the person who determined that it must be done with power live to the cabinet!
Good Luck,
Monoblanco
 
You have to turn off the power to connect the switch, right?

In any case, to cut the hole make a wooden form in the shape of a disk that will act as guide. Screw an eye bolt into it and glue it centered on the rim of the existing hole. Then take a tool of your choice, like a Dremel tool with a diamond graver, and move it around the circumference of the wooden disk. Obviously the disk has to be sized properly so that the tool has the right offset. When the cut is close to completion, hold onto the eye bolt to steady the form.

The above will make a pretty crude cut, but it will be ok for a switch if it is done carefully. If you really insist on having a clean hole, what you can do is use a fly cutter, but it is more of a setup:

(1) Glue (or use magnets) to secure wooden battens to the back of the cutout. You need to support the cutout from the rear.

(2) Make a fly cutting jig: 3/8" aluminum bar which goes across the width of the cabinet and either clamps on to the sides, or is mounted on a very heavy object, like a fork lift or 30-ton screw jacks or whatever, anything that is heavy and will not move; put a hole through the aluminum with a running fit for the shank of the fly cutter.

(3) After setting fly cutter to correct diameter, put shank through the jig and in chuck of a power drill (or pneumatic drill head if your shop has a good air setup)

(4) Operate fly cutter until you cut through to the battens

(5) If you glued the battens you will need to clean it up somehow, either with a solvent or heat (hot glue).
 
No,No,No don't do that seriously, do you really want to be a candidate for a Darwin award. Most are awarded post mortem.
 
Kerry, I can't offer any solutions but let me know when this debacle is taking place. I can bring beer and popcorn AND I know CPR!
Have fun Brother!
 
The only thing that would make this truly funny would be if it was a switch to install a new defibrillator.....

Seriously, No. there is not a reason in the world to do this. The only 'live' wiring that is done is in the service entrance, and that is not modding a box.

IF this is connected to some billionaires iron lung, or the wiring to the 'big red button' then mod a sub box to mount the switch in it and rewire it live if you feel so brave.
 
As mentioned, whatever gozinta the hole presumably needs to be connected, and that leads to a question about "why under power?"...

You oughtta turn off power. Obviously.

Now, just as a point of discussion, if I HAD TO do this with the power ON (and I mean HAD TO), here's what I would do.

1) open the door (in many cabs that turns off the power, but never mind that)

2) Cover the open cab with a sheet of thickish plastic. Not bag material, I mean fiberglass, lexan, etc. Preferably something opaque with 94 V0 flammability

3) Securely prop the open door in position, and do the work. Your choice how to cut, sabre saw or whatever.

4) reverse the process to close it up.

Yes, basically same as what Extropic said.

I am not recommending this. But if you really had to do it, that would be a possible way with acceptably low risk for a "have to" situation.

As to how the "whateveritis" gets connected, your problem, dunno where it goes etc. Presumably it connects to something already on the door, at low voltage/current, or to something that can be shut off to do the job.
 
If anyone where I work TRIED to do this and got caught, they'd fire the guy, they'd fire the guy's boss,
and they'd fire the guy's bosses boss.

If anyone actually did this and got hurt, somebody would go to jail. Probably at least three levels of
management up.

Seriously. If this was your idea, abandon it. If your boss is telling you do to this, that is some seriously
fucked-up workplace. If a call to OSHA gets you fired, you're probably well shut of the job. Your life
expectancy there is quite limited.
 
Greenlee makes knockout punches that will do 10Ga over 6". You already have a hole there, so you don't need to drill a starter hole. Piece of cake. Finding one in your specific size might be the most difficult part, you might have to have one custom made.
 
thats an easy job, albeit less pleasant that a walk in the park, with a basic jig saw and file....if you can satisfactorily address the power/safety issue
 
A Greenlee style punch is undoubtely the safest way to do this. It gives you a great amount of control and no chips. The way these punches are designed the amount of force needed to make the cut does not increase with size so a 5" punch would go as easily as a 1" one or at least close to it.

I would contact Greenlee.



Greenlee makes knockout punches that will do 10Ga over 6". You already have a hole there, so you don't need to drill a starter hole. Piece of cake. Finding one in your specific size might be the most difficult part, you might have to have one custom made.
 








 
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