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Cutting Mobil Vactra #4 down to #2?

rpseguin

Stainless
Joined
Jun 28, 2006
Location
Napa, CA
Someone gave me a pail of Vactra #4 and I use #2.
Is there a way to thin #4 down to #2?
I’m assuming it is probably best not to use #4 (ISO 220, IIRC) when #2 (ISO 68) is called for.
 
Someone gave me a pail of Vactra #4 and I use #2.
Is there a way to thin #4 down to #2?
I’m assuming it is probably best not to use #4 (ISO 220, IIRC) when #2 (ISO 68) is called for.

Probably less complex than thinning human blood without killing the human, but neither would be on my menu.

It just doesn't cost that much for a year's worth of proper Vactra #2 coverage even with "several" machine-tools as share it, here.

I might cut it with ATF, then use it up for my chainsaw? In 50 years I no longer have left to saw chains? Seems a waste of pay-for-it ATF to use-up "free" Vactra?

:)

Better yet?

Trade it away, unadulterated at all? Not necessarily for lube oil in exchange.
 
Probably less complex than thinning human blood without killing the human, but neither would be on my menu.

It just doesn't cost that much for a year's worth of proper Vactra #2 coverage even with "several" machine-tools as share it, here.

Granted. It was just good timing that he gave me the pail of #4, as my gallon jug of #2 is near the bottom.
If thinning it was easy that would be one thing, but if not trivial, I don't want to waste my time.


I might cut it with ATF, then use it up for my chainsaw? In 50 years I no longer have left to saw chains? Seems a waste of pay-for-it ATF to use-up "free" Vactra?

:)

Better yet?

Trade it away, unadulterated at all? Not necessarily for lube oil in exchange.

Yeah, I thought about trading it.
It is clean, unadulterated Vactra #4.
All of my machines use ISO 68 (Vactra #2).

Unfortunately, I also have about 2 gallons of freshly "squeezed" ATF that came out of my truck.
I'm going to list a bunch of tooling and machines so I can pay some bills. My truck started badly misfiring and apparently needs new heads or a new engine and I don't have the money for either of those. Or, I could let it sit and hope that it heals itself magically... :-)
 
truck started badly misfiring and apparently needs new heads or a new engine and I don't have the money for either of those. Or, I could let it sit and hope that it heals itself magically... :-)

Taking electrical cleaners, hair dryer, new plugs, wires, and, of late, "ignitors"- those pieces of shite bought on-the-cheap to a lousy design - has worked better for me.

The GOOD news about an all-aluminium 2005 Jaguar XJ8-L: A great deal of Ford's MONEY went into it so underfunded Jaguar Ingine-ears could finally afford to fix a ton of stupid s**t scores of years overdue for fixing.

The BAD news about an all aluminium 2005 Jaguar XJ8-L: Too much of the Aluminium and worse-yet PLASTIC was allocated to the dodgy POS of the Ford ENGINE that went into it as "revenge" for takin' all that money and doing good deads with it everywhere else.

:(
 
''Or, I could let it sit and hope that it heals itself magically... :-) ''

That's never worked for me :(

Worked just fine when I drove a Subaru. Flash flood pulled some water into the intake, got the clutch in before it stalled. Towed it home, pulled the plugs for a week (I was going out of town anyway) to let it air out, changed the oil, and presto, fired right back up. Ran ragged for a few weeks on account of one cylinder consistently misfiring, but once the catalytic converter blew out it ran like a champ for the next year. My now-wife finally made me get rid of it since she has a better sense of smell than I do and claimed that it smelled moldy or something like that.

I did need to top off coolant and oil about one quart/month each for that year, and looking back it probably wasn't too intelligent, but I was a dumb kid fresh out of school. Wanted to save up for a new truck instead of spend money on my still-reliable junker, and I still drive the truck I bought next, so it all worked out.
 
Worked just fine when I drove a Subaru.

?? I didn't so much "drive" my DL1800 AWD Super-poo. Kept the agile over-eager little f**ker on a LEASH to prevent it climbing trees and trying to eat the local racoons, rather!

Fool thing didn't know when to quit.

Fair chance the local racoons wudda ganged-up, lured it into a trap in a local stream, rolled it's ass belly up, then parted it out in trade for fast-food gift certificates!

Pretty aggressive, the few wild animals in the shadow of the nation's Capoffools as don't GET no dam' government paychecks!

:(
 
The viscosity of the oil is determined at the refinery. There is no practical method for changing it in the field. Try to add something will screw up something else. As for the draining's from the transmission, there is a reason for the changing fluids and it isn't good for machine tools. Get fresh what your machines need and be done with it.

Tom
 
why do you need vactra ? it is very expensive . there are many less expensive iso 68 way oils . sunoco waylibe is $45 a
pail. pholips 66 os $65 . gulfway and chevron are $75 . unlike automotive oils , way oils don't get recirculated .
 
why do you need vactra ? it is very expensive . there are many less expensive iso 68 way oils . sunoco waylibe is $45 a
pail. pholips 66 os $65 . gulfway and chevron are $75 . unlike automotive oils , way oils don't get recirculated .

+1

WTH..... PLUS TEN!

Sunoco is less than half the price of Exxon/Mobil in this case!

Little-known factoid? "Buy American (Mostly)",

Sun Oil ALSO uses more North American petro feedstock, less Russian and other dodgy US-hater suppliers, than most any other Tier ONE refiner.

I like that, too!.

Always handy to check THESE folks - and similar - who are "agnostic", carry many brands and packaging sizes, and provide easy comparison right on their website.

Mobil Vactra No. 2 Equivalent

I even actually BUY lubes from them... largely BECAUSE they have been so helpful and saved me "real money"!

They have competition, too,

:D
 
Worked just fine when I drove a Subaru. Flash flood pulled some water into the intake, got the clutch in before it stalled. Towed it home, pulled the plugs for a week (I was going out of town anyway) to let it air out, changed the oil, and presto, fired right back up. Ran ragged for a few weeks on account of one cylinder consistently misfiring, but once the catalytic converter blew out it ran like a champ for the next year. My now-wife finally made me get rid of it since she has a better sense of smell than I do and claimed that it smelled moldy or something like that.

Not as good at the time my brother filled up the crankcase of our '55 chevy with water. And then my mom drove it back and forth into manhattan - about 50 miles or so.
Drained out the oil, re-filled it, and it was good to go.
 
Not as good at the time my brother filled up the crankcase of our '55 chevy with water. And then my mom drove it back and forth into manhattan - about 50 miles or so.
Drained out the oil, re-filled it, and it was good to go.

Buddy of mine and his Dad had argued for years over which motor could take the most abuse. As "Dad" owned an auto-wrecking yard, they finally put it to a "road test" Drained two junked cars bone DRY over several days.

Then fired them up, one each go, and hit US Rte 19, South. 1936 Diamond T hand-winch wrecker as "chase plane".

1950's Ford "flathead" V8 ran a full nine miles further, "dry" than the "better engineered" one. Same-year Chevy inline six, IIRC. That ole '36 "crash box" Diamond-T could HAUL anything you could get the hook onto. But nine miles was about an extra 45 minutes at the rate it covered the ground, even in the higher gears, and lightly loaded!

No gloat for Ford-man Son.

His Dad happened to be a borderline LEGENDARY arsehole on GOOD days. Losing the best to a young 'un surely didn't improve on that!

The best news?

Even being merely "sideswiped" by that rage as a mere bystander (MOPAR man, meself..) was superb training..

.. for the days Jim Rozen gits "Trump!!" in the bombsights of his virtual "Stuka" "TDS" dive bomber!

:D

You'd have to have a sense of humour?
 
Nah, googled plenty. Just nothing that seemed like it was worth risking. The usual suspects don't seem much cheaper from what I could find... And Vactra is NOT a substitute for Vacuoline. Vactra is for sliding surfaces (ways); Vacuoline is for both hydraulic system and sliding surfaces. You can sub Vacuoline for Vactra but not vice versa.
 
Nah, googled plenty. Just nothing that seemed like it was worth risking. The usual suspects don't seem much cheaper from what I could find... And Vactra is NOT a substitute for Vacuoline. Vactra is for sliding surfaces (ways); Vacuoline is for both hydraulic system and sliding surfaces. You can sub Vacuoline for Vactra but not vice versa.

I sub the same Wurht's HHS-K or HHS-2000 the Jaguar's suspenson joints get for Vactra, actually.

Instead of tacky, the ways appear "dry", but would make Owl s**t look like brake lining material by comparison, they are so slippery! Not just "temporarily", either. The stuff ENDURES!

Swarf don't find a home, gluing itself into the tacifiier and riding under the carriage.

I'm good with that.

So are the 10EE's.

Given the 1942 / 1944 pumped lube failure no longer matters... and I can ignore the cost and nasty-tasking of line and metering renewals. Times TWO!

:D
 








 
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