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Deburring Keyways on Mill

munruh

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Location
Kansas
I have a whole lot of 1/4 inch keyways coming up on the machining center. I really don't want to knife them all. What is a good tool for deburring keyways? I suppose I could drop a ball nose down on top of it......Is there a better tool for this?
 
I have a whole lot of 1/4 inch keyways coming up on the machining center. I really don't want to knife them all. What is a good tool for deburring keyways? I suppose I could drop a ball nose down on top of it......Is there a better tool for this?

I would use a 1/2" ball nose or a 1/2" 45 degree chamfer tool.
 
I really don't want to knife them all. What is a good tool for deburring keyways?

Deburring keyways sucks in general.. But a knife??

Go get a pedastal grinder, 1700 or 3500 rpms and then go get some deburring wheels. ZIIIIPPPP and done, nice clean
edge break.

scotch-britetm-exl-deburring-wheel.jpg


http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Products/~/Scotch-Brite-EXL-Deburring-Wheel?N=7581697+3293241548&rt=rud
 
I just use a 90deg chamfer tool 4 flute, coated and program a 3D chamfer (if the keyway is on the od of a shaft) or a regular 2D chamfer toolpath for a keyway like BobW posted above. This way it looks perfect and no secondary operation needed.
What cad/cam program do you use?
 
I just use a 90deg chamfer tool 4 flute, coated and program a 3D chamfer (if the keyway is on the od of a shaft) or a regular 2D chamfer toolpath for a keyway like BobW posted above. This way it looks perfect and no secondary operation needed.
What cad/cam program do you use?

Use Gibbs and Fusion.
 
90 deg countersinks work well - I like the single flute type, ..grind the tip off if it fouls the floor of the keyway.

If you're working on a manual mill, and are cutting the keyways to table stops, a slip between the stop and table ''lug'' can help get the ends right.
 
In Fusion we do this using the 2D trace function.

You will have to spend a little time messing with your "radial stock to leave" and "axial stock to leave" to get your desired result. Not that big of deal though.

Typically I go deeper by 0.005" to 0.010" on my axial stock to leave than the radial stock to leave. It will depend a little on if your chamfer mill has a flat on the end, usually they do.

RMS Machine
 
I don't get it, I assumed everyone used a standard deburring handle on them. The strongest key is the one with square edges where the shear pressure is, the larger the deburring is the less effective torque resistance it has, so wouldn't a very tiny radius be best? (.005-.008")
The thing I don't like about using a gray wheel is the abrasives loosened, I don't like them infesting the machine shop. Other than that it is a nice way to do it.
 
I don't get it, I assumed everyone used a standard deburring handle on them. The strongest key is the one with square edges where the shear pressure is, the larger the deburring is the less effective torque resistance it has, so wouldn't a very tiny radius be best? (.005-.008")
The thing I don't like about using a gray wheel is the abrasives loosened, I don't like them infesting the machine shop. Other than that it is a nice way to do it.

put a cheap small shop vac to the dust exit on the grinder's wheel guards, wire it to the grinder so both will always be run together

re; noise, it's a grinder, it's loud even without a shop vac
 
I don't get it, I assumed everyone used a standard deburring handle on them. The strongest key is the one with square edges where the shear pressure is, the larger the deburring is the less effective torque resistance it has, so wouldn't a very tiny radius be best? (.005-.008")
The thing I don't like about using a gray wheel is the abrasives loosened, I don't like them infesting the machine shop. Other than that it is a nice way to do it.

the stress riser is on the inside corner, not outside edge. but where or why it will fail is also a question of the length of the keyway, width of the keyway and diameter of shaft.
 
the stress riser is on the inside corner, not outside edge.

The key "rolls" in the seat when the edges are opened up. I've seen it often enough. A good tight key supported all the way to the center both top and bottom will not. The bigger the relief the less stable the key is.
 
How about the vibratory finishing machine.. the one's with the stones in it?... don't have one? nether did I. made one from a 1 gal paint can... then get a shovel of gravel from the parking lot and rotate it slowly in the big old W&S turret lathe... put some holes in the can so the coolant has a way in and out.
 








 
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