Dirt bike engine cylinder hone - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve-l View Post
    One thing not mentioned yet is holding the cylinder in the lathe. DO NOT USE a chuck directly on the cylinder. It will distort the bore. You must make a fixture that the cylinder mounts in and bolts to. It is the fixture that will be held by the chuck.
    X2 ....or use a faceplate - less overhang.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    Castro R,I think just about every bike used it whether it could shift or not. I think the aroma(NOT SMELL) gave any bike another 20 MPH top end.
    Like it I know it was never cheap, but have you seen the adjectival price these days? Castrol R 4 SAE 4 4T Racing Castor Bike Engine Oil

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Like it I know it was never cheap, but have you seen the adjectival price these days? Castrol R 4 SAE 4 4T Racing Castor Bike Engine Oil
    Man, they are proud of that stuff!

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    Back in the day I built quite a few Bultaco Astro's. Won lots of races. 70's.....damn, I'm old! Proper piston clearance, a bit of Castrol R30 on the skirt and 100 octane race gas / 30-1 Castrol R30 in the tank. It won't stick, and it will smell good too!

    back in the day i always put the piston in dry (air cooled husq). if i remember right that info came from husq. never had issues.

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  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve-l View Post
    One thing not mentioned yet is holding the cylinder in the lathe. DO NOT USE a chuck directly on the cylinder. It will distort the bore. You must make a fixture that the cylinder mounts in and bolts to. It is the fixture that will be held by the chuck.
    This was covered in the first post. The OP has plans to bolt the cylinder head to a faceplate.

  7. #26
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    akajun: One more (old timers tip) is, after finished with boring and honing and flushing out with solvent to remove as much grit as possible, is to scrub the cylinder with warm soapy water and a stiff bristle brush to remove the last of the smallest grit and then quickly rinse and shoot it with your favorite lube before it rusts. I like to use WD40, it quickly displaces the water with oil. Then, use your favorite lube. Good luck.

    JH

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  9. #27
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    I wouldn't rule out post #6
    18cc isn't going to make go from what it used to run to holy shit fast.
    Of course wife will not care for that, bigger is bigger....so DONT TELL HER that part.

    Of course rule #1 is never ever lie to a loved one..ever.
    But there is nothing in the rule book that says you cant explain it as a close as possible replacement part, just leave out the bigger bore part
    Now if she ask exact questions about bore size then your pretty much screwed. Just blame it on the counter guy who sold it to you.

    Years ago I bought a 51 model 9N tractor.
    Not long after the rings gave up and it look like a mosquito fogger truck when running.

    Was to broke to fix it proper but needed to mow grass in the worse way so I had to do what ever to get through until I could fix it right.

    Popped the head and oil pan off, unbolted rods and shoved pistons out the top.
    Bores were like .008+ egged.
    Couldn't afford new sleeves and pistons, had just enough money for new rings and a head gasket.

    I shit you not on the next part..
    Had no hone of any kind so I borrowed some 120 grit emery from work and by HAND worked those cylinders over till they looked just like they had been honed, cross hatch and all. Took a while.

    Put it back together hoping to get at least the rest of the mowing season done.

    That was 18 YEARS ago, she will bust off right now and work all day with not a wisp off smoke. Will pull a 72" finish mower through moderately high grass. No BS.

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  11. #28
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    A dry installation on a 2 stroke is best for a quick ring seat in.Not to cool on a 4 stroke as you may get some metal transfer/micro welding at the ring faces.depends on material.Remember a 2 stroke will wet the cylinder bore with a gas oil mix on the first revolution before it will start.So even installed dry it is wetted before it starts.
    Not so on a 4 stroke with oil control and multiple rings,however a thin coat of whatever break in oil you are using will suffice.

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