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Do any drill resharpening services offer morse taper regrinding?

With large, quality bits costing over $500, wouldn't it be worth the cost?

Thanks
Tom

I can't speak for the US but there was a company I dealt with over here that would do what they called " re- tanging " on Morse taper drills. They'd replace the tang if it had been torn off ( that was the usual issue ) and repair any damage to the taper and then oil blue the taper shank.

As you say for drills over say 1-1/4" it was worth having them done just as long as the rest of the drill was in good condition.

Regards Tyrone.
 
If they can regrind a Morse taper reamer, I don't see why they wouldn't clean up your MT drill shanks. Especially since one setup will cover all drills with the same taper shank #.

Any outfit you'd recommend?

NOTE: There could be issues chucking the drill end. But the tang does have a center.
 
If they can regrind a Morse taper reamer, I don't see why they wouldn't clean up your MT drill shanks. Especially since one setup will cover all drills with the same taper shank #.


Not every cutter grinder set up for flute grinding will have a motorized workhead but it's worth asking. Actually any machine shop that has a universal cylindrical grinder would be able to do the taper. That might open up the options. I haven't had work done in an outside shop so have no specific recommendations. Just call around and ask.
 
I think a machine shop would charge many times more what a sharpener service already setup to do MT's would charge. Right now I have a request in with Fastenal which has a sharpening service.

NOTE: Decades ago THE PLACE TO GO was DoAll on Rte 30 near Irwin, PA. They did carbide burrs and everything you could imagine and it was CHEAP! (I'll bet those days are gone...)
 
I think a machine shop would charge many times more what a sharpener service already setup to do MT's would charge. Right now I have a request in with Fastenal which has a sharpening service.

NOTE: Decades ago THE PLACE TO GO was DoAll on Rte 30 near Irwin, PA. They did carbide burrs and everything you could imagine and it was CHEAP! (I'll bet those days are gone...)


I'm starting to get a funny feeling about this whole question. You initially asked about where it could be done - didn't say cheap too but you're balking at checking because you assume they're expensive. You mentioned DoAll, so why aren't you going there? You assume a machine shop would be expensive but what kind of quotes have you gotten so far? I understand the field has changed a lot with the small shops run by a couple experienced guys going out of business and the large outfits going to NC grinding where they'll carve whatever you want out of a carbide blank.

It's sounding like it boils down to "just tell me who to call who does it well and cheap because I don't want to go to much trouble for this".

Just looking at threads over several years, it seems like the guys who have tried hard and finally come here for help get good sound advice and the ones who parachute in and ask for the answer get the proverbial back of the hand for their trouble. Honestly, if I had a name of a shop to call, I'd give it to you, but as a bit of advice, some evidence of more homework might generate more attention.
 
I'm starting to get a funny feeling about this whole question. You initially asked about where it could be done - didn't say cheap too but you're balking at checking because you assume they're expensive. You mentioned DoAll, so why aren't you going there? You assume a machine shop would be expensive but what kind of quotes have you gotten so far? I understand the field has changed a lot with the small shops run by a couple experienced guys going out of business and the large outfits going to NC grinding where they'll carve whatever you want out of a carbide blank.

It's sounding like it boils down to "just tell me who to call who does it well and cheap because I don't want to go to much trouble for this".

Just looking at threads over several years, it seems like the guys who have tried hard and finally come here for help get good sound advice and the ones who parachute in and ask for the answer get the proverbial back of the hand for their trouble. Honestly, if I had a name of a shop to call, I'd give it to you, but as a bit of advice, some evidence of more homework might generate more attention.

I disagree 100% with the above. What does it matter if he's spent 5 days looking or none at all? A question is a question, that's what the forum ultimately is here for other than discussion. Who are you to penalize someone just because they want a quick answer. Maybe he doesn't have time to go looking around. It's posts like yours that can potentially drive members away or avoid asking questions.
 
Shop I had used for sharpening taper reamers, like so many others, is gone.
As TGT writes, this could be done on a universal grinder. Reminds me why I once was looking to buy one.
I'd start with a search for grind shops in your area and just stop in.
 
...
NOTE: There could be issues chucking the drill end. .

This ^^^^^ a driil is not a straight flute reamer and has much more backtaper so in a normal chuck only the very tips contact.
How many flutes and how many chuck jaws or collet teeth? Even match?
This gets us into using the area of no flutes and the area just below the taper but sometimes that area is not true to the tip grind.
If a shop did these in volume special chuck jaws or collets could be made to fit the job and then the taper grind easy.

Bigger question falls under why killing tapers in the first place.
Bob
 
I disagree 100% with the above. What does it matter if he's spent 5 days looking or none at all? A question is a question, that's what the forum ultimately is here for other than discussion. Who are you to penalize someone just because they want a quick answer. Maybe he doesn't have time to go looking around. It's posts like yours that can potentially drive members away or avoid asking questions.


If you look at the history of threads you'll see a pattern of some that pan out and some wind up in a dog pile with the OP at the bottom. I didn't tell him to sod off, I pointed out the pattern and made a suggestion for what seems to draw more help. And nobody so far has told him exactly the shop to contact - including you. So, who do you suggest?

"Some people think I give them hell, but I don't give anybody hell. I tell the truth and they just think that's hell." Harry Truman
 
No harm asking for a source so can we end that.
Asking for help is sort of good. Perhaps more machinists should do so but it goes against the grain.
I'm sure the OP thinks that should be a simple task..... It seems easy on the surface.
Fully admit to not knowing a good answer.
All those who make or have made taper fit drills, reamers or taper toolholders feel free to jump in.
Bob
 








 
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