DoAll 2013 v

beckerkumm · Dec 18, 2020

i am looking at a Doall 2013 v made in 1990. I have several wood bandsaws, Oliver and Yates snowflake but this is my first metal saw. Although I can handle a 26", I don't think I will need that much machine. Can anyone give advice as to what to watch out for ? Table and Trunions, transmission, speed control, etc ?

How does the 2013 compare to the older 16" machines in build and quality? I'm an old machine guy and have little interest in new. The 2013 is close and i can get to see it run but also not in any hurry if there are better choices. It is a 208v machine and I run 240v three phase from a Phase Perfect and my true voltage is slightly high. would there be any issues with the voltage on the DoAll ? thanks, Dave

moonlight machine · Dec 19, 2020

beckerkumm said:
i am looking at a Doall 2013 v made in 1990. I have several wood bandsaws, Oliver and Yates snowflake but this is my first metal saw. Although I can handle a 26", I don't think I will need that much machine. Can anyone give advice as to what to watch out for ? Table and Trunions, transmission, speed control, etc ?

How does the 2013 compare to the older 16" machines in build and quality? I'm an old machine guy and have little interest in new. The 2013 is close and i can get to see it run but also not in any hurry if there are better choices. It is a 208v machine and I run 240v three phase from a Phase Perfect and my true voltage is slightly high. would there be any issues with the voltage on the DoAll ? thanks, Dave

I use a Do All of that vintage at a place I do contract work for. It is nowhere near as heavily built as my 1956 built Do All. That said it does the same work with no complaint. I have been using it since 1994 with no issues.

steve-l · Dec 19, 2020

I think it is hard to advise without knowing the condition of the machine. I can tell you that these are great saws. For me, the 16" saw is perfect for my available space. The 20" saw takes a lot of floor space and they are hard to move around without making a rolling carriage, which I did for mine. You will need access all around the saw, so it's hard to park it against a wall without a carriage. The electrics are pretty simple and 240 is no problem. I would be careful wiring the blade welder using the weak phase though. Parts are readily available for most things except the power feed parts.

beckerkumm · Dec 19, 2020

I agree condition is everything. I have about 50 old machines and am used to moving them around so I can handle that. Prices for doalls seem to hold pretty well in the 3-5K range here in the Midwest. Dave

beckerkumm · Dec 19, 2020

I bought the 2013. I got to hear and see it run, went through all speeds in low and high. condition was quite good. Paint was original and inside of back was clean and no rust.

Any advice as to blades? A good all purpose blade and any recommendations for tooth count, and band thickness. I don't know the tension limits of the machine or the sweet spot for thickness vs width. Good places to buy are also appreciated. Thanks, Dave

steve-l · Dec 20, 2020

Photos would be nice. I use 10-14 tooth bi-metal blades. The teeth are M42 and they are made up by a company in Germany. The brand is Lennartz. They are very reasonable and are excellent quality. You can find them on the web. I only keep 1/2 and 3/8 on hand, but I have guides from 1/8 to 3/4. Do you have a welder?

GregSY · Dec 20, 2020

Aside from the meaningless thread title...I have a 2013 from 1968 and couldn't imagine a better saw in any sort of practical sense.

I have it shoved up against a wall. It would be nice to have 360 degree access but it's not a big deal. Every couple years I pull it away for one reason or another and when I do, I clean it up and give it a looking over for maintenance, etc.

The 1990 vintage, I can't comment on other than to say it might have been made less sturdy but it also has 30 or 40 years less wear and tear, too.

beckerkumm · Dec 20, 2020

I had tried to change the title after my first post but couldn't figure out how to do it.

Will send pictures when I get the machine. The 1990 vintage has the speed adjustment under the. table on the side and no tach. Table is fixed and not hydraulic. Welder works. Machine was bought by a company making battery back up power sources so not heavily used.

Thanks for the Lennartz recommendation. I run Lenox Trimaster on my wood saws and tension them to 25000+ but I suspect that may be high for the Doall. Dave

steve-l · Dec 20, 2020

My DoAll has a tension meter and it is calibrated by blade width. Both the speed adjust wheel and the tranmission shift lever is on the left as you face the chip drawer. The power feed weight adjust wheel is on the right. The blade tension adjust is under the top blade wheel. My saw also has an adjustable angle pusher than runs on a 1" diameter bar on the right side of my table. I did not have a rip fence. It would mount on the front of the table and slide from left to right. That fence is available from DoAll, but it costs $1300. I made my own.

beckerkumm · Dec 20, 2020

on my woodworking bandsaws the tension indicator is worthless except to repeat settings. The problem with their calibration is they usually don't specify the band thickness that the width refers to. I have a tension meter and use that most of the time as the Trimaster blades are too expensive to guess with. I can experiment but was hoping someone would tell me if they preferred .025 or .035 and if so, at what width. Since I expect that 1/2" is likely to be on saw most of the time, should it be .025 or .035 ? Dave

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