Does it exist? Drill with larger shank?

no704 · Sep 30, 2020

I've never seen or heard of one, But I think that it would be nice to have a #7 (.201) drill bit with a 1/4" shank. Could be used in a !/4" collet, and avoid having to use a chuck and crank the Knee up and down so much.

Anybody know of such a thing?

Thanks

Guest · Sep 30, 2020

The only drill bits I have ever seen with shanks larger than the body are hex shank drill bits.

AARONT · Sep 30, 2020

I haven't seen anything like that. I have used DA collets from my drill sharpener and chucked them up in an ER32 with good results. I wouldn't do it everyday, but it works in a pinch.

boslab · Sep 30, 2020

Got some morse drills down to 1/16” (1 mt), could sleeve them?
Mark

CAMasochism · Sep 30, 2020

Only drills I know of like that tend to be high performance carbide drills. I know the Mitsubishi MVS drills we use tend to have shanks that increase in increments of 2mm, though you can order them with same size shanks.

Limy Sami · Sep 30, 2020

About 10 minutes to turn a sleeve up on the lathe and loctite it to the drill - job done.

Lewie · Sep 30, 2020

I have a bunch of "tap - drills" from a 2-56 to 10 -32 with 1/4" "shanks" . all home made and used ever now and then with good results. All home made about 30 years ago. :-) If I was going to the larger sizes I think I'd use 3/8" shank for the two 1/4" and the 5/16" ones. Haven't had the need to date. :-)
...lewie...

Kyle Smith · Sep 30, 2020

7/32” R8 collet.

thermite · Sep 30, 2020

no704 said:
I've never seen or heard of one, But I think that it would be nice to have a #7 (.201) drill bit with a 1/4" shank. Could be used in a !/4" collet, and avoid having to use a chuck and crank the Knee up and down so much.

Anybody know of such a thing?

Thanks

How much "knee cranking" do yah really need to get the drill in and out of chuck, ER, TG, or DA?

"Something" has to be there. Unless you seek wire-size drills on PDQ-Marlin VS, native Are-Ate, or NMTB/CAT/BT taper tails?

Hex shank is easiest, gets you plenty of store-bought goods, other sizes.

Done over a thousand of those, "Day Job" for a proprietary need, fixtured up for ganged production, 8 at a go. Lost 20 imperfects out of first 800 getting it sorted as to heat-treat and ignorant interference fit / friction bonding. NO locktite required. Doesn't take a lot of material in contact before they'll break before ever they'd spin. See "shrink fit" milling-cutter holders. Same concept.

NB: If you don't already have such, seems that ADDING power for the Z axis would be more all-around useful. DRO optional.

Not as if it were exactly rocket insemination.

no704 · Sep 30, 2020

thermite said:
How much "knee cranking" do yah really need to get the drill in and out of chuck, ER, TG, or DA?

"Something" has to be there. Unless you seek wire-size drills on PDQ-Marlin VS, native Are-Ate, or NMTB/CAT/BT taper tails?

If you don't already have such, seems that ADDING power for the Z axis would be more all-around useful. DRO optional.

Quite a bit of cranking if going from an end mill to the keyless chuck, chuck is about 4" plus the length of the drill. I usually keep the chuck in one mill (the one with the riser), and do collet operations on the other, but that's not always an option.
Would love a power Z but cant really justify the expense.

L Vanice · Sep 30, 2020

There is a class of bit with 1/4-28 male threaded shank that comes in many lengths and diameters. They are meant for use in portable power drills, so there may be some runout between the drill and the thread, but I don't really know how much. Anyway, you could make a shank with 1/4" or any other popular collet size (3/8, 1/2 or 5/8) and a 1/4-28 tapped hole in one end of suitable diameter with wrench flats.

Threaded Aircraft Drill Bits - Over 100 sizes and lengths in stock!

Larry

thermite · Sep 30, 2020

no704 said:
Quite a bit of cranking if going from an end mill to the keyless chuck, chuck is about 4" plus the length of the drill. I usually keep the chuck in one mill (the one with the riser), and do collet operations on the other, but that's not always an option.
Would love a power Z but cant really justify the expense.

Cheaper than making Franken-drills, let alone BUYING them. ER-20, 13 mm tail, PDQ-Marlin VS side-lock and I'm covered.

As to powered Z? Affordable as can be.

My mill already had it. It was my shaper that did not.

ISTR the "corded" electric variable-speed "driver" drill to sort that was about $35, plus an impact-grade black-Iron, not chromed socket? Even a cheaper HF sub $20 one could last a long time when used ONLY for operating a knee, one machine, only. I have a cheap air-ratchet that also "works". I just don't like the hammering action for long-term use.

Separate "tier ONE" maker drill motors used for drilling.

Bill D · Sep 30, 2020

Lots of endmills made that way. Just regrind the tip to a drill point.
Bill D.

Finegrain · Sep 30, 2020

OSG PN 10201005 -- .201" drill on a 1/4" shank

https://www.osgtool.com/books/8002020CA/html5/index.html?&locale=ENG&pn=263

The OSG EX-Gold's are shanked up to the next full mm or fractional inch (List 1000), regardless of actual drill size. I have 100's of them, they are great.

Regards.

Mike

gregormarwick · Sep 30, 2020

Another really good not carbide drill that steps up to nominal shanks is YG's Multi-1 powder metal drill series.

thermite · Sep 30, 2020

Finegrain said:
OSG PN 10201005 -- .201" drill on a 1/4" shank

https://www.osgtool.com/books/8002020CA/html5/index.html?&locale=ENG&pn=263

The OSG EX-Gold's are shanked up to the next full mm or fractional inch (List 1000), regardless of actual drill size. I have 100's of them, they are great.

Regards.

Mike

gregormarwick said:
Another really good not carbide drill that steps up to nominal shanks is YG's Multi-1 powder metal drill series.

These and other have been around for ages. CNC demanded it.

Tool changers. Magazines full of pre-set tools on "anything BUT a Jacobs or similar wide-range adjustable chuck" drove that market.

For a "smallholder" with manual-only spindles and infrequent need, (guilty, all counts) getting a wider collapse range holder with less expensive collets seemed the better deal. ER, TG, DA for my needs. Run "native" size shanks, standardized size shanks, or reduced size - regardless. "Run what yah got", IOW.

"YMMV" but Jacobs, Albrecht, LLambrich & cousins? Those long and bulky "drill chucks" more b'long drill presses - which have more easily utilized "daylight" as well as more OF it - than on mills OR lathes.

And even then "not the only" mounts.

EPAIII · Sep 30, 2020

They make a wide variety of drill bits as well as milling cutters with 1/8" shanks. I think these are mostly carbide. These are widely used in making PC boards. Perhaps some of the same makers also make others with 1/4" shanks.

It would not take much to use some 1/4" drill rod to make sleeves for the various other sizes of drill bits. Drill, slit and slide them on. Remove them when the bit gets dull and put it on a new or resharpened bit. I would not make sleeves for every bit in the box at one time. Just make them as the need arises for each size. I would bet that 50% or more of the bits in an index will never get used.

Hummm. If you resharpen your dull bits, having a common shank size would save the cost of a lot of collets.

CAMasochism · Oct 1, 2020

Finegrain said:
OSG PN 10201005 -- .201" drill on a 1/4" shank

https://www.osgtool.com/books/8002020CA/html5/index.html?&locale=ENG&pn=263

The OSG EX-Gold's are shanked up to the next full mm or fractional inch (List 1000), regardless of actual drill size. I have 100's of them, they are great.

Regards.

Mike

I knew I was forgetting something. Those are great drills.

UptownSport · Oct 1, 2020

Use a lathe if you can-

I stopped using the Bridgeport when a part would fit in the milling attachment; I got tired of cranking hundreds of lbs of iron up and down.

Carriage takes a moment to adjust to various mill, drill and reamer lengths.

thermite · Oct 1, 2020

EPAIII said:
Hummm. If you resharpen your dull bits, having a common shank size would save the cost of a lot of collets.

Counter to which.. 1/4" and under if not also 1/2" and under, if you don't have the economic justication, thus do not pay a premium prices for special shanks, you can afford to not HAVE to resharpen.

Present-day labour costs, it isn't necessarily wise.

Does it exist? Drill with larger shank?

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