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Drilling Long Small Diameter Holes in Titanium

Bewarethem00n

Plastic
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Hi guys, first poster here.

I‘m having some motorcycle parts made from Titanium.
My machinist is having a little bit of trouble when it comes to drilling a couple of small diameter (maybe 4.0mm) holes approximately 75.0 mm in each end of the piece.

He doesn’t have much experience in working with Titanium and isn’t particularly computer savvy so I said I would try and do a little research.

Can anyone offer any tips or advice?

Any feedback would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks in advance. Daniel.
 
With little or no TI experience he WILL be having problems I'd speak with a decent drill manufacturer like Guhring Titex etc etc - and Cutwel (YG Brand) can be good too.

Tip - first of all find out what grade of Ti he's drilling, - it makes a big difference ……. just saying Ti is like just saying steel.
 
Hi guys, first poster here.

I‘m having some motorcycle parts made from Titanium.
My machinist is having a little bit of trouble when it comes to drilling a couple of small diameter (maybe 4.0mm) holes approximately 75.0 mm in each end of the piece.

He doesn’t have much experience in working with Titanium and isn’t particularly computer savvy so I said I would try and do a little research.

Can anyone offer any tips or advice?

Any feedback would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks in advance. Daniel.

Age-old problem. What yah do is make the part in two halves.

Mill, not drill, a semi-circular trough in each half.

Length is no longer an issue.

Now Loctite the two halves together, and you have your round hole.

How hard was that?
 
I don’t think that would be a viable option for this part, it’s a swing arm axle/pivot bolt. The small holes are channels for grease to be forced down and out towards the inner face of bushings
 
I don’t think that would be a viable option for this part, it’s a swing arm axle/pivot bolt. The small holes are channels for grease to be forced down and out towards the inner face of bushings

A new bushing as needs no grease would be my route.

Tons of that technology out there this century. Graphite buttons in Bronze, several grades of Oilite, some with Teflon, etc.

Done right, no grease means no "glue" to hold abrasive fines of road / mineral dust and other fine particulates in its working environment.

Not even sure a Titanium bolt is as good as QPQ Nitrided steel if it has to serve as a "bearing".

Replace these often, as preventive maintenance, I'd guess?

2CW
 
Hi Bewarethem00n:
Drilling small deep holes in titanium on a CNC is a risky proposition unless you have lots of resources to play with the process until you get it right.
However, drilling them on a manual machine is pretty easy once you know how.
I've successfully drilled 1/8" diameter holes 6" long in Ti6Al4V on the Monarch lathe and on the Bridgeport.

A couple of key things:
1) Your start hole must be very straight; I predrill them, and then bore them on location and as deep as I can conveniently go so my final drill will just slide into the start hole with no more than 0.0005" clearance.

2) Your speed must be slower than you think and your feed needs to be positive...you don't need to reef the piss out of it, but you need to keep the drill flutes cutting.
I aim for about 20 SFM, which for a 5/32" drill is about 500 RPM, and looks ridiculously slow if you're used to CNC drilling aluminum or steel, but it will pay off big time.

3) You need to peck it with small peck increments...neglect this just once and you will pile up chips, they'll weld to the bore and you will twist off the drill in a heartbeat.
On the Bridgeport, I use the quill stop so I can drop it in increments of 0.010" or so and then pull the handle down firmly so the drill is cutting not rubbing.

4) It needs to be sloppy wet with your favourite tapping fluid...I use Relton's Rapidtap; other swear by Moly Dee and others.

That's basically it...not too difficult if you're patient with it.

Now don't get me wrong, you CAN drill titanium successfully on the CNC; I do it all the time as do countless others.
But titanium is unforgiving of even small errors, so experiments to get it right can be expensive , and the risk shoots way up as the depth to diameter ratio increases.

It's always a bit butt clenching for me to hit the green button the first time on a titanium drilling job, and I tend to watch them like a hawk, even knowing I'll never catch it in time to hit the "OH SHIT" button if it craps out half way down the hole.

Cheers
Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
Vancouver Wire EDM -- Wire EDM Machining
 
I'm not so worried about the drilling - I'm more concerned about (what sounds like) a bushing riding directly on the Ti surface??

This isn't a good idea - Ti, even Gr5, isn't terribly hard and has poor tribological (rubbing) properties. You may discover you're wearing into the Ti pin faster than you'd expect, even with grease lube.

Just my opin. Granted, I don't work in Brackley or Brixworth, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn once (actually, I did, while we were testing items for spaceflight).
 
I did some 1/16" holes 4" long (65D) in 6Al4V a while back, straight to 0.010" or so.

All of what Implex says above.

I started the hole with a solid carbide stub drill making sure my drill bushing was lined up exactly to the spindle. I too pecked at 0.010" being sure to clear the chips each peck, as he mentioned this is very important. The tool has to stay cool and lubricated and you have to have good feed or it'll work harden in a second.

I tried some high end drills from Titex and Guhring but found the PTD/Dormer CO500-6 drills the best, I extended them a little at a time to maximize rigidity:

http://selector.dormertools.com/web...data-sheet.pdf/CO500-6?searchaction=Technical

A little "Harry Homeshop" for this site but I did them on my manual lathe with a Mach 3 Z axis installation, here's an example with a parabolic I was trying:

 
Hi Dian:
You wrote "0.01"? really? how much do you retract?"

Yep, that was not a mis print.
Remember this is drilling on a Bridgeport, not drilling on the CNC.
For those of you not familiar with how to do this on a manual machine with a quill, you set the quill stop, then lift the quill a bit, spin the quill stop a bit , slam down the quill, retract out of the hole, spin the stop a bit more, slam down into the hole etc etc.
The "slam" is not actually a wallop, but it is a fairly forceful push, and the peck increment is so shallow so you don't overfeed the drill, but you can still avoid rubbing it.
You also want to make very short chips that will not pack in the bottom of the hole, but can come out more easily.

There's a trick to gauging how hard to pull on the quill handle, and it varies a bit for different materials.
Those that are prone to work hardening like 304 SS or titanium typically get a smaller peck with a harder push than those that drill freely but need the control of a peck like drilling waterlines through a cross hole in an injection mold, or breaking through an angled exit surface.

I don't know how commonly it's still used among manual machinists, but it can be a bacon saver, especially when drilling small holes in challenging materials and I first learned it drilling tiny fluid holes in graphite electrodes for sinker EDM, 40 years ago.

With regard to retraction, it depends on how the drill feels through the quill handle, how deep the hole is, how much noise it's making...all that warm fuzzy "real machinist" shit you don't get to experience on the CNC.

In titanium if you don't run it sloppy wet and you don't clear the hole often enough you will have a misadventure sooner or later; also if you run the drill just a wee bit too fast, you'll drill for a bit, then get one horrible squeak when you burn off the corners of the flutes and then get a twisted off drill buried in the hole on the next peck.

So clear it often but not necessarily on every peck.
On a 1/8" diameter hole I try to get down about 0.100" before a full retract...sometimes I can, sometimes I have to clear every 0.040" to 0.050".
It just depends, and that's the beauty of drilling deep holes by hand...you can compensate on the fly in a way you can't easily do on the CNC, because you have more cues to follow and you can stop when you see hear or feel something wrong.
So I will sometimes spot and start deep holes on the CNC and finish them on the Bridgeport, just for that extra bit of security on a high value part.
You'd think I was nuts accepting the extra setup and squandering my time but there are times when it's a bacon saver.

Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
Vancouver Wire EDM -- Wire EDM Machining

PS, BTW, I agree with Thermite and Milland about titanium being a poor bearing surface, but having said that, there are lots of bicycle nuts who accept this shortcoming to get the "feel good" about the weight saving.
They'd probably be better off accepting a pre-race enema to get the total package weight down...but that's another discussion for another time
 
As soon as the OP told us it was for a swinging arm pivot bolt -I was out of it, ……...titanium bikers are not only a complete PITA, but often brainless and of course ever willing to shift the blame when something breaks and folk get killed or injured - I just show them the door.

+ 1 on Implmexs comments about enemas.
 
I have had similar results as Marcus. When drilling Ti I think of a slightly crappier version of 316 SS. Low surface footage and do not let it rub.

Here is a link to a similar long depth to diameter ratio part in Ti. Ti is poor at thermal conductivity, you need plenty of coolant. When I went to make a second axle I wasn't getting coolant down the hole like I thought I was and it shrank on the drill and snapped it off. I quickly removed the part from the chuck in a woefully optimistic attempt at removing the drill bit and burnt my hand on the middle portion of the shaft that was screaming hot. Ruined a $250 piece of material and my custom drill. Education is expensive.

Drilling a 3/4"Ø through 36" of Titanium 6Al-4V
 
Just wondering here, but would this be a candidate for EDM?

Like a lot of us have said, it's a candidate for a rethink. The pivot pin either needs to get a sleeve of hardened steel where the bushings sit, or the whole thing should be a hard, tough steel.

As to EDM, if it's not done right you might wind up with a white layer that acts as a initiation point for cracking due to fatigue. On the other hand, EDM drill, then ream to remove the WL and give a "clean" bore might work. A custom reamer with a short flute and good relief to fight the "Ti shrink" might be the ticket.
 
Like a lot of us have said, it's a candidate for a rethink. The pivot pin either needs to get a sleeve of hardened steel where the bushings sit, or the whole thing should be a hard, tough steel.

As to EDM, if it's not done right you might wind up with a white layer that acts as a initiation point for cracking due to fatigue. On the other hand, EDM drill, then ream to remove the WL and give a "clean" bore might work. A custom reamer with a short flute and good relief to fight the "Ti shrink" might be the ticket.

The swing arm pivot bolt has a hardened steel sleeve that fits between a bronze bushing on either end, needle bearings fill these bushings and the pivot bolt runs between it all.

Thanks to all who’ve offered helpful advice on drilling the small long holes, I’ll pass this on to my machinist and see where we get too.

Daniel
 
Titanium is not a wonder metal, it's just hard to work with. Same with monel.

However it sounds cool and is expensive so it's perfect for everything.........

If it has to be made of titanium then at least make the holes as big as reasonable. If all it's for is grease let it be drilled 7/16 and put a 1/4 npt zerk in it.

Do the calculations to make sure it's strong enough, titanium is NOT unbreakable.
 
The swing arm pivot bolt has a hardened steel sleeve that fits between a bronze bushing on either end, needle bearings fill these bushings and the pivot bolt runs between it all.

Daniel

I'm confused. Do both surfaces that have needle bearings riding on them get hardened steel bushings, or just one side and the outer race is bronze?
 








 
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