Electrolytic cleaning of air compressor tank? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    usu. paint cannot hold pressure but can cause "pin hole" rust which is worse (see other compressor tank discussions)

    > I've read something about hydrogen embrittlement with this technique

    an electrolosys or baked coating should be put on while clean and smooth (scaling with acid will pit). but who knows maybe there is one that is so good it'll hold even pitted and not have a dissimilar metal problem.

    > phosphoric acid

    i hear transmission fluid has that effect on transmission parts. but it makes my tool look bad (pitting coat not rusted?) if i forget to clean. interesting though.

    > safe experimentation with dangerous pressures

    there was allot of good advice on pm about the tanks being designed to fail "as-is" (alteration free)

    if you alter it you'd need to create a way to be safe if it did fail improperly

  2. #22
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    4 years old!

  3. #23
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    Default storage

    a good debate is how to store. my manual says blow out air, then keep drain closed, store.

    but i hear in a closed container vapor pressure rises. also that any moisture will (w/o changes in pressure and temp of compressor) still evaporate and form water, until vapor rate == condensation rate (which is continual). and if i check the tank days later (drain closed) it seems to have water in it. so i'm wondering at that.

    i'm guessing i should leave the valve open and store in dry place ?

  4. #24
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    any kind of "after the fact", inner tank, coating scheme, i can think of at this time ends up costing more than trading in for a plain new tank

  5. #25
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    I did read of a fellow that used "Evap-O-Rust", which can be purchased at Harbor Freight, Northern Tool and on line. He hooked a line to the drain at the bottom of the tank, ran it to a small pump and then the pump to a spray nozzle that was run through the discharge bung. He directed the spray so that all surfaces where covered at some point. The "Evap-O-Rust" cycled repeatedly through the pump system to thoroughly coat the interior. Evapo-Rust Rust Remover Home

    Perhaps you could this system.

    Vlad

  6. #26
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    One thing to remember about paints and coatings is that if the coating is solvent based, there will be pin holes in the coating where the solvent evaporated. Pressure cycles will force water and oxygen through these pin holes, essentially negating the value of the paint. Second issue is for any coating to be of value, it must bond with the substrate which means metallically clean surface and the type of coating is one to bond with the steel. The coating must also be flexible.

    One of the best ways I know of to protect steel from corrosion is a zinc coating, either in electro-galvanized or hot dipped in molten zinc, neither of which is really practical. However, there is one way to achieve most of what zinc offers and that is a paint call ZRC for Zinc Rich Coating. The stuff I have used is 95% zinc with the balance a binder. Applied over a CLEAN steel surface for both adhesion and because the zinc has to be electrically connected to the steel.

    Use zinc rich coating as a search term to get more information.

    Tom

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  8. #27
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    Hello, 3 of Sportster_2001's 5 total posts are to this thread, of which he dug up and it's 4 years old!!!

  9. #28
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    Guys,

    I was the original poster and appreciate the input even after all these years.

    I ended up getting a new tank. It was too much bother without any assurance that electrolosis would have halted or slowed the existing corrosion.

    The old tank sits in my Thomas Edison pile of junk, someday might become a blasting cabinet.

    ("To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.” - Thomas Edison)

    Chuck
    Burbank, CA

  10. Likes Royldean liked this post

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