So far I've been satisfied using HSS for tooling but using end mills for facing, which I've been doing a lot lately is frustrating. I would like to get a face mill that uses carbide inserts but finding a good fit has been difficult. I would like to use the same insert for future lathe turning if possible to cut down on the expense. I don't need one with a large diameter, maybe 1"-2". Any suggestions would be appreciated. Although I'm a hobbyist I don't mind paying for quality tooling. My metal working machines are a Bridgeport mill, Victor 1440G lathe and Victor 8x18 surface grinder if it makes a difference.
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Face Mill Recommendation?
- Thread starter beeser
- Start date
- Replies 28
- Views 6,459
Sounds like a recycle CNMG insert mill is right up your alley.
CNMG 15 Degree Recycle Carbide Insert Milling Cutter use your used CNMG 43_, CNMG 12040_ Turning Inserts As New Milling Inserts ID 1130-
CNMG 15 Degree Recycle Carbide Insert Milling Cutter use your used CNMG 43_, CNMG 12040_ Turning Inserts As New Milling Inserts ID 1130-
garychipmaker
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2005
- Location
- ia
I have one of these face mills. I'm satisfied with it. But I found it on Ebay for a 1/3 of the normal price.
Terry Z
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2012
- Location
- Gurnee ILL. USA
Call Rich at 847-419-0044 they set me up with a face mill and Sumitomo inserts and I love it!
This looks good but who makes it?
BT Fabrication
Titanium
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2019
- Location
- Ontario Canada
Lathe and mill inserts are different geometry if they have a chip breaker.
Either way, get ready to spend $500 on a good face mill and arbor
Dorian makes the one in the link I sent but kennametal has one as well
here's the Dorian link page E108
https://www.doriantool.com/wp-content/uploads/dorian_tool_milling_system_catalog.pdf
CarbideBob
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Location
- Flushing/Flint, Michigan
Since you mentioned Dorian I wonder who makes this holder for Kennametal?
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
Personally I would not run a negative geometry on a Bridgeport, not enough power or rigidity to get it to cut right, IMO. I would look at either a high positive or just a run of the mill APKT insert which are cheap and work.
I wouldnt put it past them to be using a Dorian with their name on it.
In an industrial setting I would agree, But in the OP's comment he is facing now with HSS in a fly cutter so he must be just cleaning up a surface so power should not be an issue. And he wanted something that was interchangeable with his lathe inserts so this pretty much limits him to a CNMG mill.
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
I don't disagree with what you are saying....but he also said he is willing to pay for quality tooling which is why I'm suggesting to ditch the idea of one insert. I would imagine a negative insert would leave a craptacular finish taking a light cut.
Luke Rickert
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Location
- OSLO
On my light mill (schaublin 13 with iso 30) I find the my facemill with SEKT inserts works really nicely. I picked up a cheap one to test it out and have been very happy with it. I think mine is 50mm
CarbideBob
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Location
- Flushing/Flint, Michigan
Actually this cutter runs fairly well on a B-port and due to the chipbreaker is not a negative and close to a APKT depending on the inserts going in.
It's been around a long time with a lot of big and small brand names on it.
Bob
Mud
Diamond
- Joined
- May 20, 2002
- Location
- South Central PA
I found this 2" Iscar tool to be just about perfect for on our Wells Index, so much so that it found a permanent home in the setup rack. The 2" Dia and 6 flutes is well matched to the rigidity and power of the machine, the 90 approach angle makes it usable for shoulders, and the positive inserts leave nice finishes on most any steel. I automatically grab it for onsie twosie parts and fixtures etc.
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
I suppose you are right and with the correct insert it may work well, but is that insert going to be what's left over from the lathe? My experience is dedicated tooling almost always works better than universal tooling. Cry once when you buy it or save money and cry every time you have to use it. I'm a cheap guy and have found often the cheapest overall path requires the most money up front.
CarbideBob
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Location
- Flushing/Flint, Michigan
I'm in line with this 100% and when I first saw this tool I thought it was crazy to try and use a lathe tool on the wrong corner for milling on a B-port. Seems all wrong.
At this time a coated CNMG-432 went for 4-5 dollars, why try to save it for another use?
Then one of my customers wanted one from the catalog so I got a freebie from the brand name I was a rep for,..... and to my amazement the darn thing worked....
It's not the best milling cutter, it likes steel not Al, won't do 90 walls, lock pins wear or you round out the hex and need to be replaced, but makes a good addition to the family and can really take a beating.
If I want to make a lot of steel chips fast and deep on a manual machine right at the edge of stalling the spindle I'm putting this in over any APKT or SEKN. (your mileage may vary)
I don't think it the cutter of choice for a cnc application.
Here is a great place to find other choices in good face milling cutters at a reasonable price.
FACE MILLS
Look for number of inserts in the cutter when buying smaller face mills. Two plus to three inch is sort of the min due to the way they are made.
It's called tooth density. One inch indexables are not so great.
For a face mill you want clear swing on both sides of the part so add this in.
On 2 inch wide stock I'd want a min of 3 and better a 4 inch cutter.
Bob
(Just two cents or less from the peanut gallery from someone still confused after so many years about how this all works and what is best... I am not an expert or to be trusted)
As somewhat of a crapshoot and out of frustration I ended up purchasing the following Dorian 2" R8 end mill with some KORLOY GRADE PC5300 inserts. The inserts will probably not do double duty for turning but that didn't seem to be a good idea anyway based on some of the comments above. The reason for taking this direction was because of the few comments on APKT inserts, Dorian seems to be a quality tool and a 90 degree edge can be formed. Any comments on using this on my Bridgeport?
DMF_TomB
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2008
- Location
- Rochester, NY, USA
bridgeport vibrates if using more than 1hp normally.
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might want flycutter and if tool holder takes insert that fits the 3/8 by 3/8 bit same as used on a lathe, avoid roughing with flycutter on bridgeport its hard on setscrew key in R8 collet spindle that keeps collet from spinning
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RNC or corncob end mill use for roughing as it normally less vibration for same inch per minute removed
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might want flycutter and if tool holder takes insert that fits the 3/8 by 3/8 bit same as used on a lathe, avoid roughing with flycutter on bridgeport its hard on setscrew key in R8 collet spindle that keeps collet from spinning
.
RNC or corncob end mill use for roughing as it normally less vibration for same inch per minute removed
My recommendation as well. We did it this way for many years on our BPs. Used a cemented carbide bit in a cheap flycutter. Whole setup would be less than $100. But if you have money a shell mill with inserts is probably the better choice.
