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Tie rod end sizes

RC99

Diamond
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Location
near Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
Is there anywhere where there is a big list of available tie rod end sizes with dimensions.

I have been given the task of repairing a steering ram off a prehistoric Hough loader. The owner backed into a tree, turning the ram into a banana and then someone (no it was not me) smashed one of the tie rods with a hammer trying to flog out the tapered bit. The ram of course is a fully welded unit, that is the ends of the ram are both welded to the cylinder.

I have not yet found a tie rod end of the required dimensions. It is a male one with 7/8 18 RH thread.
 
I don't think I've ever seen a 7/8-18 thread on a rod end bearing. If you have the room, perhaps take a 1" thread version, cut down the thread to what you need, then bush the ball end if needed. Try to make the thread transition as smooth and clean as you can for stress reasons, might be worth steel shot blasting the last 1/4" or so of thread for increased fatigue life.

[edit: too early in the morning for me. If what you need is what Bill posted, but still can't find the thread size, then what I suggested may still work for you.]
 
Bill,
Great lead, but just as big a problem is the Taper ID. What are these tapers and where can the correct reamers be purchased?
Steve

Auto/truck/heavy equipment mechanic ordinarily replaces the mating assembly, outright, if damaged.

Situation like the one RC has? Machinist involved.

We just generate the taper in the mating part being fabbed. Or MAKE the reamer. D style, slow but reliably precise when only for the one job. Auto parts outlet MAY have loaners, but it takes more time to go-fetch than to make the D and torch-harden.

Not even certain there is damage to this one that requires either, only to the replaceable tie-rod end.

Sounds like a one-hammer beat-out was attempted when the proper method uses two, matched, and precisely timed. Pops 'em out, undamaged, on the first or second go, barely leaves a mark. And it ain't the tie-rod end being struck. It's the mating part.

Easy for those of us who are fully ambidextrous. And have the hammers for it. IF, of course both sides are where you can get a swing. This may not have been such. Actually I'd bet against it. ELSE pickle fork, ELSE bespoke puller. Got those, too.

Bill
 
Bill,
Great lead, but just as big a problem is the Taper ID. What are these tapers and where can the correct reamers be purchased?
Steve


Most common is 1.5" per foot. Gammons Hoaglund has the reamers, racer car builder suppliers are stocking them now as well.
 
The reason for the question, is that I have had to make custom tie rods for marine rudders. These ends work very well for this application.

I'd have figured Rose or Heim rod-end joints, straight bore, and in more corrosion resistant alloys than automotive goods would be less likely to become a maintenance headache.

I'd hate to have to change-out a steel-on-steel Moog after many years on the water. Bad enough with only part-year road-salt exposure and them being as well-exposed to it being readily washed-off - by accident or design - as anything else on the vehicle.

Bill
 
After I spent an entire day modifying a straight reamer and sharpening it I discovered my tapered repairman's reamer from Sears was the correct taper. That was over 30 years ago. I don't know if their current reamers are the same taper.
 
Bill,
You would be correct if these were exposed to salt water, but these are below deck on a steel 60" sailboat. A few more pounds of steel on a 28 metric tonne boat won't make a big difference. The advantage these have is no play and they stay tight.
 
If you do need a tapered reamer, these cheapies from Speedway have worked fine for me, and half the price of AFCO. Speedway Ball Joint Reamers - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

Thanks Barry,
Spot on. There appears to be two different tapers in use today, 1 1/2" per foot (7 degree) or 2" per foot (10 degree)
Interestingly, those are the same tapers used for valve stem locks.......just saying. Anybody know if these same tapers are used for imported cars?
 
I'd hate to have to change-out a steel-on-steel Moog after many years on the water. Bad enough with only part-year road-salt exposure and them being as well-exposed to it being readily washed-off - by accident or design - as anything else on the vehicle.

Bill

In a previous life I was a boat mechanic for a few years. Most steering setups I've seen did indeed use the typical Heim joint tie rod arrangement. Some boats, go-fasts mostly, have an external tie rod between the two outdrives that ends up living under water.
 
In a previous life I was a boat mechanic for a few years. Most steering setups I've seen did indeed use the typical Heim joint tie rod arrangement. Some boats, go-fasts mostly, have an external tie rod between the two outdrives that ends up living under water.

I'm close to the Potomac and other tributaries to the Chesapeake. Did years of fiddling about with holes in the water, decided holes in the air were actually cheaper, and only rented those rather than own.

Nowadays, I settle for shadows.

As-in:

"A motorcar is a shadow on the pavement into which you throw money."

:)

Bill
 
Working on other people's boats is slightly more profitable than working on your own. I now only deal with my 17 foot center console, which is something I can come up with cash and ambition to handle. There are a lot of boats that I think are nice, but they are nicer for other people to own.
 
There are a lot of boats that I think are nice, but they are nicer for other people to own.

Oh, THAT sort I was aboard far more often in Hong Kong than US. There are some serious personal (or corporate) fortunes and watercraft according out that way..

:)

A common outing for the 'middle class' families was to rent a crewed Choy Lee or clone stink-pot for the day from a proven provider, leave all but the partying to a seasoned crew. Not at all expensive, really.

Bill
 
Have also found the MOOG Tie Rod End Chart. Problem with it is that it doesn't delineate the Taper Length.

Am in the process of fabricating a CUSTOM made Drag Link for Lorrie Van Haul, the ONLY surviving 1967 Dodge P200 Post Office Vehicle out of 3,500 built.

Am in need of the following:

A Left Hand Rod Threaded Tie Rod End with a Large Taper Diameter of .724, a Small Taper Diameter of .633, and a Taper Length of .735.

A Right Hand Rod Threaded Tie Rod End with a Large Taper Diameter of .724, a Small Taper Diameter of .633, and a Taper Length of .735.

These dimensions are from Lorrie's worn out Drag Link. The Pitman Arm, and Steering Arm may not be these precise dimensions, but anything CLOSE to the above dimensions in bold face could be made to work. The length, diameter, and threat pitch can be anything as we could make the Link accept them.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.

JCAllison
 








 
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