Freeing up stuck collet chucks
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  1. #1
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    Default Freeing up stuck collet chucks

    I acquired a Tree Journeyman 325 a few years ago, which had a couple of dozen CAT-40 toolholders with it. The machine (and toolholders) had been idle for a few years, and the machine had been used with some sort of water-soluble oil. Cut to present; I am trying now to free up a few collet chucks that came with the machine, all of which have cutting tools in them from previous owner. The holders are Erickson (Kennametal) TG-100 single-angle collet chucks, CV40TG100300 specifically. I can loosen the clamp nut on the nose, but after about 1 turn, the nut binds up, which I assume means that the collet is cemented into the taper with years-old dried soluble oil. Or worse, perhaps.

    In any case, a couple of questions:
    -- Am I going to damage anything, like a retainer ring or the collet, just hauling down on the clamp nut to break it loose? I don't see anything in the Kennametal/Erickson catalog info.
    -- Is there a suggested method that will free these collets and cutting tools up more gently?

    I have let the holders spend a half-hour or so in hot soapy water as a start, didn't seem to make any obvious difference. Doused them with WD-40 before and after, nothing has yet succeeded. Any advice welcome, as I need to use a couple of these holders right now.

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    Have you got access to an ultrasonic cleaner? …...if so give em a good bashing in that.

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    Penetrating oil soak with the nut backed out to put pressure on removing the collet. let it sit a few days or a week. Maybe pour boiling water on the body in hope to expand it and not the collet, pressure from the nut might then pop it loose.

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    I would pour some penetrating oil in from the pull stud end and let it soak a bit. Then from the same end use a brass punch to shock the tool and hopefully collet free with the nut turned loose the 1 turn.

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    Thanks, y'all -- don't have an ultrasonic cleaner in my shop, so that's out, unfortunately. Might be the real deal. I'm trying some of that PB Blaster crap, let it sit overnight and see what happens. I'm working on two, and I have shot 'em both full of WD-40, but of course one of them has a positioning stop screwed in behind the cutter, so everything has to work from one end only... I had already tried the smack-it method with an aluminum rod on the other one, right on the end mill shank, and no luck (yet). The brass drift might be a little stiffer, so worth another try.

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    Give the penetrant some days to soak in, dont rush it and hurt the tools. Just keep it submerged if you can or just give it a little spray 2 or 3 time a day.

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    For a TG100 I would use a moderate force to loosen the nut, say 150 lb*ft or so. If that doesn't loosen the nut, try a hammer and punch on the back on the tool while the nut is tensioned for removal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by specfab View Post
    I acquired a Tree Journeyman 325 a few years ago, which had a couple of dozen CAT-40 toolholders with it. The machine (and toolholders) had been idle for a few years, and the machine had been used with some sort of water-soluble oil. Cut to present; I am trying now to free up a few collet chucks that came with the machine, all of which have cutting tools in them from previous owner. The holders are Erickson (Kennametal) TG-100 single-angle collet chucks, CV40TG100300 specifically. I can loosen the clamp nut on the nose, but after about 1 turn, the nut binds up, which I assume means that the collet is cemented into the taper with years-old dried soluble oil. Or worse, perhaps.

    In any case, a couple of questions:
    -- Am I going to damage anything, like a retainer ring or the collet, just hauling down on the clamp nut to break it loose? I don't see anything in the Kennametal/Erickson catalog info.
    -- Is there a suggested method that will free these collets and cutting tools up more gently?

    I have let the holders spend a half-hour or so in hot soapy water as a start, didn't seem to make any obvious difference. Doused them with WD-40 before and after, nothing has yet succeeded. Any advice welcome, as I need to use a couple of these holders right now.
    Zip-lock bag 'em. Toss em into yer food freezer overnight. Then into a pot of hot solvent.

    Copper drift tap, kroil and repeat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by specfab View Post
    Thanks, y'all -- don't have an ultrasonic cleaner in my shop, so that's out, unfortunately. Might be the real deal. I'm trying some of that PB Blaster crap, let it sit overnight and see what happens. I'm working on two, and I have shot 'em both full of WD-40, but of course one of them has a positioning stop screwed in behind the cutter, so everything has to work from one end only... I had already tried the smack-it method with an aluminum rod on the other one, right on the end mill shank, and no luck (yet). The brass drift might be a little stiffer, so worth another try.
    You can get an OK quality ultrasonic cleaner that might be big enough at Harbor Freight, list price about $80. Often a coupon for 20 to 30 percent off. A larger one can be had from Amazon, for a little more. They can be handy, in case you want to justify spending the $$$. I use also them to clean motorcycle carbs that have been sitting with ethanol added gas, works quite well.

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    Lay the holder on a block of soft wood and smack the side of the nut it with your hammer and punch. I have a ER16 that does not have the extraction collar so that is what I do.

    Ed.

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    Update FYI -- Managed to free up 1 holder, after overnight oil soak and a few smacks on the back end of the end mill with the aluminum rod and a 3-lb hammer. The other one (with the stop-screw plug behind the endmill) looks like a long-term project.

    The one I got apart feels like it has a ball bearing construction in the clamping nose, or it's just mighty smooth in the collet rotation in the clamp nut. No visible means of easy disassembly, though.

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    Needle bearing. Remove the collet by pushing sideways on the small end and the snap ring will be visible.

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    I don’t trust original formula WD40 as a penetrating oil. I understand the manufacturer makes a WD40 penetrant and if that is what you used never mind. There are many better penetrants than the standard WD40 product.
    Joe


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