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General questions about hardening W-1 drill rod

ksierens

Plastic
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Location
Clinton Township, MI
I am looking at some specs for hardening W-1 drill rod, and have some general questions about setting up the cycles on a furnace to preheat it.

The specs state:

HARDENING
Preheating: Heat to 1200° F, hold at this temperature until thoroughly soaked.

Hardening: Heat to 1425 to 1475° F. Soak at heat for 30 minutes per inch of thickness. Temperatures on the high side of the range will increase the depth of the case.

Quenching: This material may be water quenched, but brine quenching is preferred. Water or brine quench to 150 to 200° F. Oil quenching is sometimes used for light sections and where maximum hardness is not required.

Tempering: Normally water hardening steels need be single tempered only. However, double tempering may sometimes be preferred. Soak at heat for two hours per inch of thickness for each temper. Air cool to room temperature between tempers.


Some other sites recommend preheating slowly, so my questions are what period of time is considered "slowly", and how long is considered fully soaked? Does slowly mean taking it to lower temperatures and soaking before raising the temperature?
 
I have never followed any warm up procedure and never had a problem. Unless you have a lot of time already into machining the part and it has some intricate details, I would just throw it in the oven and quench when it is at temperature.
With that slow warm up procedure you will get a lot of scaling and decarb on the surface. I have covered the part I have done in boric acid to prevent contact with the air and had no adverse effects when quenching.
I do not heat treat W1 that often maybe others can give you more insight.

On real small parts I have just heated them up with a propane torch and then quenched. Again no problems so far.
 
Not the best choice of steel for that part. I'd use an air hardening tool steel and perhaps still oil quench it, then temper it.

Water or brine quenches are so drastic especially when you have sharp corners as stress risers. Water quenches also tend to 'freeze in' more distortion (dimensional change).

You have to be very careful not to decarburize the surface with long heat times, or you'll loose .005" off the surface, which you'll have to grind all over to remove and get down to the hard stuff. Hence the protective envelope requirement while the part is in the furnace
 
Can not tell how big that is but your heat treating manuals will have a temperature that is about 50F higher than the water quench temperature that you can oil quench from. I am guessing that part is less than 1/2 in diameter, if so the "teeth" will cool faster and an oil quench will give you less distortion as Hu mentioned. Because it is intricate and you have some time invested in it, I would start in a cold oven with it covered in boric acid and let it heat with the oven to the temp. I get boric acid at the hardware store as "Roach Proof" what ever is left you can dust behind your refrigerator for insect control.
Might have a different plan if that thing is 1/8 inch diameter or 2 inches.
 
I also would have made it from A2, less fussy about HT than W1 or O1. But this guy I'd put in a foil bag with a little hunk of craft paper and put it in a cold oven and then run it straight to temperature - with my little oven an hour. Leave a bigger chunk of steel in there and pull it early to plunk in the quench and get the quench temp up there - well past the "I can't leave my hand in there" so close to boiling. Saltwater quench is *hard* on materials with all those corners. Double draw it when your oven cools - I double draw A2 and you get better toughness at higher hardness.

If you have a lot of hours in that cutter you'll want to run something as a test piece for practice.
 
Lots of different ways to do things, but when I use boric acid I make a cup shape out of stainless tool wrap then heap the powder over it. I have had it not covered in spots and get a little scale there. I have done paper in a bag when treating A2, never done it with W1, it might work as well.
I would not make a paste with water, maybe dipping a hot part in the powder would work never tried it, I would be afraid of it running off the elevated points. Try it on a piece of scrap, it might work.
 








 
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