Grizzly 0824 14 x 40 2" bore lathe...3 months old....issues since new - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    All of that is why I suggested a Whacheon from Greer Machinery. I know someone who bought from them and is satisfied. I use a Whacheon at a contract job I work at, It is equal to any machine I own. If I was in the market I'd buy one in a heartbeat.
    Whacheon is very nice, but a totally different price class. I bet a new 16x40 with a couple chucks will be over $35k


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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  3. #22
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    Top good quality machine often cost 2 or 3 times more than the bargain brands, mostly because the are worth it.
    About the only way to get great quality is to but a top name machine that is a few years old..yes then taking a chance it has been abused.
    Being quick to between centers is the way to least run out.Rough in + .004 and finish on centers.
    Experience makes old clunkers do good work.

    OH! are Grz... still green?

    qt[ Something is "walking" and I simply can't figure it out.] Some times cutting tool sharpness and selection can do that.

    But this is a good thread and thanks for sharing and being honest.
    Go buy another machine is not a good answer..helping you make better with it is good.

    Out of the chuck with all OD and ID should run good to a cut off part.

    qt:[Grizzly now wants the machine returned for repair or replacement.] They cant make it as good as a name brand machine but it is good they are talking.
    Agree .002 , and even .006 is possible with a new chuck..Yes I have seen best chucks run .0005 to .002 for a time,

  4. #23
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    Fist.. I did NOT start this thread as a vehicle to bash Grizzly, as everyone I have worked with at Grizzly has been very helpful. They are trying to work with me and I appreciate their efforts! I'm just three months into this and totally frustrated and lost.
    Yes Gibs are tight and everything on the lathe is properly adjusted. Now, with that said, this machine might make three perfect cuts then start to overshoot, cut taper, etc. and destroy work pieces. To turn outside diameters I've been having to sneak up on the final dimension and file the last .001-.0015. Forget boring. Last time I tried that was on a sleeve for an interference fit to a shaft. Ended up having to knurl the shaft because the boring bar over cut by .0015. Then I was able to plug weld the assy...not the best situation but got me by. One other point...negative back rake tools have demonstrated more consistent cutting, but still not good. I'm guessing because of the higher cutting forces resisting over cutting?? Also, even with very tight,(too tight) cross slide gibs. the DRO will jump .004-.008 into the work piece during a cut. All tooling and inserts are new and sharp.
    As of now I have the machine skidded and crated, (11 hr. work) ready to go back to Grizzly. I'm going to work with them as they are trying yo work with me. With tooling I'm over $9000 out....no other choice. The big loss is I now don't have a lathe for the shop which will cost me even more money.

    Sorry for a bit of rambling!

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by wgt500 View Post
    Fist.. I did NOT start this thread as a vehicle to bash Grizzly, as everyone I have worked with at Grizzly has been very helpful. They are trying to work with me and I appreciate their efforts! I'm just three months into this and totally frustrated and lost.
    Yes Gibs are tight and everything on the lathe is properly adjusted. Now, with that said, this machine might make three perfect cuts then start to overshoot, cut taper, etc. and destroy work pieces. To turn outside diameters I've been having to sneak up on the final dimension and file the last .001-.0015. Forget boring. Last time I tried that was on a sleeve for an interference fit to a shaft. Ended up having to knurl the shaft because the boring bar over cut by .0015. Then I was able to plug weld the assy...not the best situation but got me by. One other point...negative back rake tools have demonstrated more consistent cutting, but still not good. I'm guessing because of the higher cutting forces resisting over cutting?? Also, even with very tight,(too tight) cross slide gibs. the DRO will jump .004-.008 into the work piece during a cut. All tooling and inserts are new and sharp.
    As of now I have the machine skidded and crated, (11 hr. work) ready to go back to Grizzly. I'm going to work with them as they are trying yo work with me. With tooling I'm over $9000 out....no other choice. The big loss is I now don't have a lathe for the shop which will cost me even more money.

    Sorry for a bit of rambling!
    9K for a 14x40 Gr-z!!!

    between that, and now you saying you can SEE the movement on the DRO, (which answers your question of whats going wrong), well good luck, we can't help. glad they are willing to still work with you, actually says a lot for them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wgt500 View Post
    Fist.. I did NOT start this thread as a vehicle to bash Grizzly, as everyone I have worked with at Grizzly has been very helpful. They are trying to work with me and I appreciate their efforts! I'm just three months into this and totally frustrated and lost.
    Yes Gibs are tight and everything on the lathe is properly adjusted. Now, with that said, this machine might make three perfect cuts then start to overshoot, cut taper, etc. and destroy work pieces. To turn outside diameters I've been having to sneak up on the final dimension and file the last .001-.0015. Forget boring. Last time I tried that was on a sleeve for an interference fit to a shaft. Ended up having to knurl the shaft because the boring bar over cut by .0015. Then I was able to plug weld the assy...not the best situation but got me by. One other point...negative back rake tools have demonstrated more consistent cutting, but still not good. I'm guessing because of the higher cutting forces resisting over cutting?? Also, even with very tight,(too tight) cross slide gibs. the DRO will jump .004-.008 into the work piece during a cut. All tooling and inserts are new and sharp.
    As of now I have the machine skidded and crated, (11 hr. work) ready to go back to Grizzly. I'm going to work with them as they are trying yo work with me. With tooling I'm over $9000 out....no other choice. The big loss is I now don't have a lathe for the shop which will cost me even more money.

    Sorry for a bit of rambling!
    Ok, without being a smartass. Why don't you take off the carriage and the cross slide inspect them on a surface plate? There has to be something that causes the cutters to dig in. Given the size of the casting on that machine, it is unlikely that they could flex more than a few tenths under load. It is more likely that one of the castings is warped and there is significant play between the bed and something on the carriage. I assume you have leveled the bed (got the twist out ), that would account for any taper. If you go on youtube and look for people with alignment issues with that lathe you will find plenty. Think about the problem as if you were rebuilding a worn machine. Start with the bed. See if it is straight and without a twist. If that checks out the next thing is the carriage. I hope this helps.


    dee
    ;-D

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    dcsipo... you're not being a smart ass. I'm the one looking for help. Yes, I've leveled the bed with my machinist level...it took .006 shim under the back side of the bed. What you say makes perfect sense to me after working on this thing for hours and hours. I have pried the carriage with an indicator every possible direction and found nothing; however, what I do notice is the feel,(drag) in cross slide depth adjustment, changes as the cross slide cranked in. It gets "looser" but not loose to where it takes out all the gib friction and generates side play. Thanks for your help..I will search you tube for the alignment issues.

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    why are you still talking about it when you say its crated and ready to go back? stop now and cut your losses

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    actually, too tight gibs can cause that....dial in a cut and everything is in compression/tension and then while the machine is running vibrations break it free and stuff jumps.

    I'm not gonna comment on the machine but if you like it, maybe loosen things up a bit and give it a shot before you send it back.

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    What angle is your compound set at and is it locked? Are you locking your cross slide on your final cut?

  12. #30
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    Sounds like its possible, the carriage saddle may have a poor fit, and the V way is not guiding the saddle properly.
    Anyway, there has been alot of problems with the China Grizzly stuff, the machine you described I would find worthless for the most basic hydraulics work.
    The Grizzly equipment fills the niche for those who want to have "new" equipment, but, certainly will never use it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    actually, too tight gibs can cause that....dial in a cut and everything is in compression/tension and then while the machine is running vibrations break it free and stuff jumps.

    I'm not gonna comment on the machine but if you like it, maybe loosen things up a bit and give it a shot before you send it back.
    I tightened up the gibs and cross slide backlash just for a test. Then I did dial in about .004 cross slide backlash and loosened up the gibs to slightly less than normal tension but no side play....no change. You just can't imagine all the tests I've done on this machine.

    Yes I agree....The carriage saddle is where I think the problem lies; however, I have no conclusive test to confirm it...that's why its going back. I can't continue to spend my time in the shop being a non paid lathe mechanic while paying jobs just sit.

    Yes, this lathe in current condition is worthless for any hydraulic service. I do a lot of shaft and bushing clearance fits and its worthless for that as well.

    I've had the compound all different angles for testing..typically 30deg. Yes it is locked down with backlash removed. Never found a way to lock down the cross slide on this lathe...that's one of the first things I tried to do. The Grizzly tech. and I both tried to find a lock down....none.

    It's kind of funny...I knew there were major problems with this machine in the first five minutes of operation. Everything was too loose...the gibs all had excessive play to the point of the cross slide moved freely while the machine was running. Now....my question is: How did this machine, in this condition, pass all the tests as indicated on the enclosed QC inspection report. It even lists all the test results???.

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    Centering the cutting tool more over saddle can be a help..I have seen set-ups with the tool set way to the left and then having problems. Yes this might be with having/setting your compound at perhaps 30* or even parallel to the work and extended it way out to the left. Compound pulled back and at 90* (right angle) rather than 30* might put it more sold over saddle and so be the most solid position. Some lathes have a short saddle and so extending can tend to off set the saddle and make it rock, tip or vibrate. Seems this extending too far left is common to avoid crashing to the chuck. *Perhaps the techs don't/did not consider/notice/know this.

    QT;[ there is no consistency.] Might result from this.

    Along with sharpness, selection and use of cutting bit.

    Yes a photo of your set-up may have told a story.


    Agree you should have oil space on gibs and gibs should have a tad oil.

  15. #33
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    I think you may have an alignment issue between lead screw and/or cross screw and their respective slides.

    "what I do notice is the feel,(drag) in cross slide depth adjustment, changes as the cross slide cranked in."

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    Quote Originally Posted by wgt500 View Post
    Now....my question is: How did this machine, in this condition, pass all the tests as indicated on the enclosed QC inspection report. It even lists all the test results???.
    Now that's funny right there!

    I feel your pain. Thanks for posting this, hopefully it will save someone else's time, effort and money...

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    Quote Originally Posted by wgt500 View Post
    It's kind of funny...I knew there were major problems with this machine in the first five minutes of operation. Everything was too loose...the gibs all had excessive play to the point of the cross slide moved freely while the machine was running. Now....my question is: How did this machine, in this condition, pass all the tests as indicated on the enclosed QC inspection report. It even lists all the test results???.
    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Keeley View Post
    Now that's funny right there!

    I feel your pain. Thanks for posting this, hopefully it will save someone else's time, effort and money...
    It went together and the motor turned on, that is the Chinese version of QC. The reports a pre-printed with scanned signatures. It befuddles me why there is no incoming QC on the importer's side. What purpose do they serve? You can buy the same assemblage of castings and motor and sundry parts directly from China for less. For a bit more you could have bought the Taiwanese version of the same machine.


    dee
    ;-D

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    I would bet couple beers that the sliding surfaces on the saddle and cross slide look something like this:
    img_20170401_152111.jpgimg_20170414_153601.jpg

    this is the standard far eastern export finish, goes well with the photocopied QC sheets

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  20. #37
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    Ten+ years ago I acquired a Clausing 5914 that had been badly neglected. It was unable to cut a 0.0625" wide groove in a bit of mild steel without bucking and breaking the grooving bit. The present story reminds me of those days.

    While I fixed many things, probably the biggest difference came from tightening the spindle nut to spec, so the spindle couldn't flop around.

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    Seeing as how you already have it ready to ship it back I would be very leary of getting it replaced, a crap shoot. You could ask Grizzly to make you a deal on a 14 X 40 South Bend. The Taiwanese SB's are good machines not a Monarch or a Mori but good quality. When you look at your lathe and compare it to the SB 14 X40 in their showroom there is a remarkable difference.
    The SB 1039 is 800lbs heavier, 16 speed and all of your tooling works with it. The inspection sheet is done by hand and with my 13 X 30 all my measurements matched. Its more money but you would be better off than selling your current lathe and taking a beating and then buying another new or used lathe.

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  23. #39
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    If you get your money back there are many lathes on craigslist, this one looks similar to yours but with 3.16" spindle bore:
    Jet Engine Lathe - general for sale - by owner

    others:
    Clausing Colchester 15" x 50″ Geared Head Lathe - tools - by owner - sale

    Victor 1640G Engine Lathe w/ DRO - tools - by owner - sale
    Last edited by Rob F.; 05-27-2019 at 05:38 PM. Reason: add additional links

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    How about posting some photo's of your tool bits, it maybe operator error and not the machine if the tech could not find an issue. Didn't the tech take test cuts before he left? A bunch of photo's would be nice. I raised the issue about cheap Asian machines last year and was raked over the coals, so I guess Practical Machinist has changed the rules.

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