Has anyone here welded on a Jacobs chuck?
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  1. #1
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    Default Has anyone here welded on a Jacobs chuck?

    I want to weld a 14N chuck to a mount for a fixture. Just a few skip TIG welds on the back(top) of the body. Before I venture onward, has anyone tried this and had it succeed or fail? Not knowing what material it is, I don't want to destroy it prematurely just to find out it doesn't weld well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    I want to weld a 14N chuck to a mount for a fixture. Just a few skip TIG welds on the back(top) of the body. Before I venture onward, has anyone tried this and had it succeed or fail? Not knowing what material it is, I don't want to destroy it prematurely just to find out it doesn't weld well.
    Its a medium carbon like 1040 or c45. Just saying as a welder for the last 30 yrs, I consider any chuck that has been welded on to be instant junk. It warps them and softens them too much. You'd be amazed how close those jaws fit.

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    Thanks, and yes I expect it to be junk.

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    I like this idea, I'd try silver solder and I'd chuck up on a piece of aluminium as a heat sink for the internals of the chuck. Just my ¢.02

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    Hi Mud
    I have one that I did many years ago. If I can find it I will post a photo tomorrow. I had a need to put a torque wrench on something round if I remember. Anyway It still works fine with the stub of a socket extension welded on.
    If I was doing something that needed a different mount than the normal Jacobs taper I would use a threaded chuck , weldon type mount or there are even threaded mounts with drive key / slot.
    I don't think the good ball bearing series come in any of those mounts however.
    Andy

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    Thanks guys, but it's not going to turn and I'm not going to be drilling or doing anything precision with it ever again. Just need the welds to hold.
    Call me Bubba

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    I had one that somebody had done a few small TIG welds on the back, presumably to hold it to a plate. It didn't seem to suffer and the welds filed out OK. Not sure how it was removed, as I got it after that.

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    Do a small scale of what Lincoln welding called a clip test. TIG weld a piece of similar stock say ¼ by 1 to the chuck with a fillet weld. Let it cool five minutes and knock the weld off by hammer, folding the weld to the inside. See where it failed. If it pulled the weld bead out of the chuck, it is probably leaded stock and therefore virtually unweldable. I would use a Supermissileweld or similar rod.

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    I inherited one that had been tacked to its arbor. Still works fine.

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    it largely depends on the future use, and liability exposure. if it is to be spinning at high speed, dont do it if any liability concerns exist, if it's stationary as you state, just clean well and go for it with, say 310 S/S tig rod. ideally, disassemble, clean, degrease, sand off casehard, and then weld.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    Thanks, and yes I expect it to be junk.
    Ermmm.. how about just cutting a stock JT-wotever taper shank and welding THAT to the "mothership" then plopping the chuck onto it?

    Chuck isn't going to gain any more grip welded at the back edges than on its usual taper. Limit is still in its own mechanism.

    Thereafter, as they BECOME "junked" ya can just replace 'em - and quickly.

    Lots of used ones about as might be good enough? Got more sad ones here than I need or will ever bother rebuilding.

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    Yeah, JT arbors are like 3 bucks. Also lends to precision mounting, drill a half inch hole TIG it in the hole, less movement

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    Quote Originally Posted by gustafson View Post
    Yeah, JT arbors are like 3 bucks. Also lends to precision mounting, drill a half inch hole TIG it in the hole, less movement
    Go full-throttle. Ream the hole for MT-wotever tail, chamfer the backside of the plate, TiG in the trench, cut off the tail, mill and surface grind clean.


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    Here is a photo of the one I did years ago. I have one of those electric nut runners that I occasionally use as a drill with this chuck. The original job was for torqueing something. You can clearly see the heat effected zone but the chuck can run all the way in or out just by hand. I'm never lucky in fact in the last 6 or so years just the opposite. So even without taking any special steps it can be done. Depending on the brand and model there might be problems with the steel or treatment of that steel for welding.

    Andy
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_0032.jpg  

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