Bronze type to use for brake shoe inside a SB lathe

I'm appealing to the amazing brain trust we have on PM. Mt 15" lathe uses a spring loaded brake in the geared head to prevent the spindle from "rolling" while in neutral. Mine has worn to the point of coming out of contact. I removed it all together to allow me to use the lathe (a while back, I'm afraid...). I am going to make a new one, simple enough but looking on McMaster Carr, I see many choices of bronze I can select from in two general categories. Bearing or structural types. I'm at a loss what to choose. Having friction is the idea, but it is a curved shoe that rides on a steel diameter. I appreciate any input on this. I assume most anything will work. I'd likely choose the bearing type (not sintered or oil filled).
Thanks in advance!
Rick

Does it need to be bronze? The brake shoe on my Colchester Chipmaster looks to be some sort of phenolic resin-based material.

--Mike

I'd start with C932 - a Bearing Bronze

Thanks guys! I'm going to try the bearing bronze. I ordered a 1/2" x 2" x 6" chunk of 932 off McMaster.

Mike, the force is input by a spring on a diameter formed in the end (one piece) so localized forces could be high. I don't know enough about any of this so my plan is to not "Re-engineer" the part any more than necessary. I'd like to learn more about the properties of bronze but still I'm not sure of the prioritization in the parts design. The lathe runs without it so how hard can it be? ;-)

Done deal! Made the part, lathe is working as it should. Due to dyslexia or something, I ordered 954 bronze. I don't know anything about bronze but was surprised by how tough the 954 seemed.

Thank you for the help!

My Harrison. m300 seems to be an iron shoe with some kind of brake lining stuff glued or riveted to it. The windmill at the family house used wood brake shoe sand wood bearings.
San Francisco street cars still use fir 2x4's as track brakes. They make clouds of smoke and smell like a forest fire.
Bill D