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I use powdered boric acid, sold as roach and ant killer. Heat the part up just a bit then dip it into the powder, which will stick to the hot part. When you continue to heat the part the boric acid turns into a thick liquid that coats the part. A water quench will cause the coating to crack and completely fall off. Oil quenching doesn’t always get rid of all of the coating, but what’s left is pretty easy to clean off.
Easy, effective, cheap, and available.
Dave
Has anyone tried the old-fashioned soft soap method for preventing decarb?
Over here in the UK, stainless foil bags or wrap are hard to come by - we can order some online, but they're shipped from the US or China.
So, would soft soap work for onesy-twosy parts? And what is the 'right' sort of soft soap? There's is plenty available from places like pottery supply retailers.
I was afraid they would end up soft like that, guess I'm going to order some stainless foil, it's a pretty decent job but the parts are little less than a half inch square so didnt seem worth it to order 50 feet lolIn addition to scale, you may have softening of the surface due to decarburization. There was a thread here not to long ago about A2 parts that 1) looked oxidized, and 2) had a soft surface. Our collective best guess was exposure to O2 atmosphere during heat treat.
I think it's only critical to be exposed to oxygen from like 1800/1650When hardening A2, does the speed of cooling matter?
When hardening A2, does the speed of cooling matter?
I think it's only critical to be exposed to oxygen from like 1800/1650
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But don't use the anti-scale in an electric furnace.
I think what Gbent is referring to is when you use boric acid in an electric furnace, it runs down on the bottom and soaks into the firebrick. It is almost impossible to remove. Been there done that.
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