Help with gear removal

Morning all,

I am stumped on how to remove the bearings on this German assembled part. Part is off a Fella SM210 hay mower cutting disc gear box and the they consider this a through away part, new one is $1800! With covid lock down I cant get a new one from S Africa, so figured to swap broken tooth gear with another unit whose gear and bearings are in good shape.

Before attempting to tear it apart and break something figured would get a second opinion. I assume the bearings are roller ball bearings, (the hex bore drive gear has needle bearings)

I am not sure if they just merrliy pressed the parts together, heat shrink it? [

Power is coming in from one side of this shaft and out the other side vertically to the cutting disc.
Will post more detailed pics

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Looks like it might some sort of water pump bearing to me, …...are they bearings behind the gears? ...………………………... so short of hidden fixings IMO that assembly can only be pressed up or loctited, …..if you can see the shaft end in the middle of the gear, make up a collar to go behind the gear / and or bearing and get it on the press, ……..might need heat to break the hold.

Use two bearing knives, each one mounted between the sleeve and collar. Push apart with two rams or threaded rod. Components probably going to fall every where, so have catch pan beneath assembly. be aware that one gear may be integral to shaft. Once you disassemble one unit you will know which is removable. appears to the in one on the left side on photograph.

5 parts IMHO
2 bearings
2 bevelgears with a shaft on them
1 bushing where the shafts go into
The shafts may have a spline or keyway or just a shrink fit
I would first try to drill a hole in the middle of the bushing Put a greasenippel in it and try a greasegun
That works if it does not leak
But if it leaks it tells you if its a keyway or spline

Peter

Morning All.

Thanks for all the input guys. Peter you were correct that the shafts had a key way.
I ended up cutting away the outer cup of the broken bearing this morning and knocked the gear off. The gears ended up being press fit into a ************ sleeve with the bearings. There is a through hole on the bevel gears. The gap between the bearing and ************ shoulder is about 1mm. Very tight. I am going to make up some hardened taper wedges. Hopefully it will work. Need to save the bearings on the other shaft and change out the chipped tooth gear.



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I can't see hardened wedges doing that job ,...………….more work I know but
I'd make a split block a sliding fit on the middle shaft that bears against the bearing and some thin 1/2 washer packers for the gap between bearing and gear to prevent damaging the bearing.

Limy Sami said:

I can't see hardened wedges doing that job ,...………….more work I know but
I'd make a split block a sliding fit on the middle shaft that bears against the bearing and some thin 1/2 washer packers for the gap between bearing and gear to prevent damaging the bearing.

Click to expand...

Limy, you lost me. (few mins of thinking....)
Same concept as a sliding hammer?
Would the sliding block be the full length of the shaft or say 2" with a flange to hammer it?
The bearing sits right up against the shoulder of the gear and shaft. this is a single piece. The gap measures 1.05mm between bearing and ************ sleeve. 0.5mm between bearing and gear.

Not a slide hammer - think 2 piece's of steel plate bolted together edge to edge and bored on the centreline a sliding fit on the middle part of the shaft - that supports the part in the press.
And gaps between bearings and what's forcing them / they are forcing will cause damage - even the 0.5mm