Help identifying/sourcing a pulley

I'm trying to swap out a 30 HP 3 phase motor from a Timesaver belt sander and replace it with a 10 HP single phase motor, due to a lack of three phase power and insufficient single phase power to convert to three phase power (though I tried my best). For the application we are using it for the single phase motor will have plenty of power.

The issue is that the original motor has kind of an odd pulley, and I broke it trying to remove it. It's still stuck on the shaft of the original motor. I can't remove the pulley on the machine end either.

The pulley has a bore of 1-7/8" (though it would be nice if a replacement had a 1-3/8" bore to fit the new motor without a bushing) an OD of 6-7/8 and 5 grooves for 5 3/8" wide V belts. Each belt handles 6 HP apparently. The belts are pitched at 0.41".

I have contacted Timesaver before and they are very proud of their replacement parts.

There isn't anything ODD about that sheave...it's a simple Taper-Lock hub and pulley. You've taken the setscrews out of the two opposing holes..now screw one into the 3rd hole and the bushing will release. ID the belt style and order a new sheave of your liking.

Stuart

atomarc said:

There isn't anything ODD about that sheave...it's a simple Taper-Lock hub and pulley. You've taken the setscrews out of the two opposing holes..now screw one into the 3rd hole and the bushing will release. ID the belt style and order a new sheave of your liking.

Stuart

Click to expand...

Alright, well I feel stupid. I thought hub tapered the opposite way and tried to use the two tightening holes to release it.

I still can't find the sheave but since only one groove is damaged I don't really need to.

Thank you for the help.

atomarc said:

...There isn't anything ODD about that sheave...it's a simple Taper-Lock hub and pulley...

Click to expand...

Well, sort of. That's a Dodge style taper lock which uses weird "dutch-key" like screws to lock the taper in place. Having the
third hole to use as a pusher when removing the pulley helps but because the push is only on one side the bushing has a
tendency to want to cock over and bind. I much prefer the Browning style of taper lock which uses three capscrews to lock the
bushing in place and different screws to separate the bushing from the pulley when the time comes. They work much better
in my opinion...

Might need to warm up the keyway, some glue pot mechanic has it glued in.

LKeithR said:

Well, sort of. That's a Dodge style taper lock which uses weird "dutch-key" like screws to lock the taper in place. Having the
third hole to use as a pusher when removing the pulley helps but because the push is only on one side the bushing has a
tendency to want to cock over and bind. I much prefer the Browning style of taper lock which uses three capscrews to lock the
bushing in place and different screws to separate the bushing from the pulley when the time comes. They work much better
in my opinion...

Click to expand...

Some help with a dead blow hammer on the other side took care of it.

I've used that style of bushing and I like them much better, having two screws for removal. Also, you can see how they work just by looking. Which would have been nice.

In my case, I've looked at them for 45 years so I sort of know how they work. I also spent a good part of my career screwing with Timesavers sanders (50hp) and I am a tad dubious you are going to get your 30hp machine to even start on 10hp. Keep us posted.

Stuart

I put a 10hp on a 37 inch widebelt. It was very low on power.Good luck.