Help with my Rohm 5 inch 3 jaw

Went to remove a stuck chuck on my southbend 9 model a lathe. Before I got to serious in removing the chuck and backplate I decided to remove the chuck from the backplate take it completely apart clean it put it back on the backplate and remove the entire assembly at once.
Got the chuck off of the backplate took it completely apart cleaned it thoroughly in kerosene. Wiped it off and tried a preliminary assembly to make sure everything turned freely and the jaws were timed correctly as I turned the scroll. Number 1 first, number 2 second and number 3. This chuck has 3 pawls I'll call them to adjust the jaws. I tried sliding the jaws in their numbered slots to make sure that they slid freely. For some reason no luck. They are to tight. Three is the worst. Put, it all together properly, oiled everything, went to adjust the jaws to see if they come together like they should and after about 2 turns it became increasing more difficult to turn.
Before I took it off of the backing plate I could adjust it somewhat, but it was stiff. So I thought a thorough cleaning would be the ticket. Now I have a chuck that is very clean but doesn't turn freely. I checked and double checked all of my numbers to make sure they were all correct. The main, planetary scroll gear turns freely even without oil, all the pawls go in nicely, their keepers line up nicely. Can't figure out what am I doing wrong. Does anybody have any thoughts. Rohm chucks as I understand it are made very well. With all of the gearing removed and the body of the chuck and the 3 jaws in their proper slides they are stiff, too stiff. Is their a way to correct this? Thank you for reading, Clyde

Two places to start. If you have a fine stone in good condition, run it over the sliding surfaces looking for a small nick or bump. Possibly a small speck of swarf smeared into a surface.

Try grease instead of oil. The oil may be wiping off of the surface as you assemble it, leaving the oil on the outside surface, and none where you intended it. Also, that oil is going to throw out at higher rpms. The grease will not.

As Mr. Thiele said, use grease not oil. In my opinion you have a chunk of swarf in the scroll somewhere. It doesn't take much. Inspect it under a good light.

Sometimes while setting up irregular parts that might need to be tilted with prybars, or a part that might have an irregularity that gets seated with a hammer against the chuck face, you can get a little dent on top of one of the jaw guideways. Doesn't take much to make a jaw too tight if it was a close fit to begin with. I'd start by laying a new file surface on the flat of the guideway and sliding it (with some applied pressure) to feel if it gets any bite. If it does, that probably indicates a dent. The dent, if present will show up quickly as a bright spot if you've got good illumination of the guideway. The difference between loose and tight is about .0001 to .0002". I'm not a believer in stoning unless you've got access to exceptionally flat stones. Maybe a diamond lap, as there are some nice flat laps made now that will maintain their profile and actually cut something even if the spot is hard.

Do the jaws originaly belong to the chuck
If replacement jaws were bought at some time these may be a bit stiffer Stone the surfaces with a diamond stone then The trick is to find out which surface to stone
Bleuing might give a indication

Peter

Not knowing the OP's background, I should have clarify what I meant by a "fine stone".

I was thinking of something like a small hard arkansas stone, or other fine grained natural stone. These are ground flat in their production. Sliding over a smooth surface, they will cut into what ever protrudes and drag, and leave a bright spot. This lets you know where there is a problem, so you can decide how to address it.

Manufactured stones can also be used, but I have run across some that are not flat, and some that easily shed grains. Shedding grains can help them continue to cut by exposing new grains- but they are not going to stay flat long, and the shed grains can end up where you do not want them.

Diamond stones are made by electroplating diamonds onto a surface. In my experience the quality of the backing surface can vary, the uniformity of the coating can vary, and the deposits are sometimes thicker on the edges. In my experience they tend to cut more aggressively, especially when new. There are many that are excellent in quality- but cost more.

HuFlungDung mentions using a file. some files are flat- some not so much. Its something to check before using a file as you want to use the convex side.

With any of the stones- if used on flat surfaces, they tend to flatten with use.

Lots of ways it can be done, but you need to "know" the tools you have.

Stone or file you feel the flat surfaces to just remove the nicks and bugs trying to leave the original surface at the original height. Hone the edge /corner bevels also down to original ..
Yes only use good quality hone stones(like new or new) and quality files.

Harbor's fright files are junk/not flat ..also hone stones used for knife sharpening and the like are not to be used.

Consider your hone a handheld surface grinder.