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help removing chuck from rare mill/drill pleas

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Indyglyder

Plastic
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Apr 11, 2021
Hi, I recectly bought a Luson LK-30 Mill / drill at an estate sale. I am having a hard time removing the drill chuck that is in it so I can figure out what type of end mill holder to buy for it. It has what looks like a drawbar which I did try to turn but did not budge. it also has a oval hole in the quill which at first I thought was for a wedge, but I don't think it would contact the top of the chuck to push it out. I place 4 bolts in pre drilled holes just for purpose of the picture. would this be to remove chuck if I tighten all 4 equally. any help is greatly appreciated. also if anyone knows of a more common clone of this import mill may help me find a manual or parts in the future.
thank you,
bryan20210415_185129.jpglk 30 1.jpg20210412_182339.jpg20210415_193207.jpg20210415_193231.jpg
 
In your first pic I see the top of the spindle, no drawbar, I'm thinking you need to find the drawbar, insert it in spindle, run it down till it gets tight, back it off a couple turns, then tap down with a mallet. I suspect if you go jacking on those 4 screws your going to break something. Looks like a plain chinese mill/drill, banned here, what makes what you have special or rare?
 
I concur. The taper just hasn't released so you need to use the drawbar to tap it loose as Dalmatiangirl explains . Usually the wrench I use to tighten it is enough, but you might need a brass hammer.

The four bolts you have installer are trying to pull the spindle out of the quill and it's never going to work that way.
 
what makes what you have special or rare?

It's the only one he has. That makes it rare indeed.

The arbor that holds the drill chuck may be meant for use with a drawbar, so if that's not present you either have to figure out what thread it is and make one, or perhaps you can find a short chunk of metal to slide into that oval slot (which is for a drift key) and then use the key to wedge against the top of the arbor while the key is whacked with a steel (not carpentry) hammer.

You'll need to figure out what size drift key you need, check the slot dimensions for reference. Or just buy a set like this, they're cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9378-Forged-Drift-4-Piece/dp/B0000DD05S
 
FYI... the first picture does not show a draw bar.
It shows the drive spline for the quill. A draw bar is a threaded bar with a nut on top that screws into the tooling at the working end of the quill.

Your picture of the oval shows a poor example of a morse taper slot for removing tooling.
You might try dropping a 3/8 or 1/2 inch bar into the top of the quill and giving it a couple smacks with a hammer.


Here is a slot in a drill press quill to remove a morse taper tool.
20210415_185901.jpg



This is a slot to remove tooling from a lathe tailstock. Note the short tang on the live center.
20210415_185940.jpg

The attachment at the bottom shows a rusty crusty import mill/drill draw bar.
 

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You need to insert some threaded rod in the hole on top in your first photo. Try both imperial (fine and coarse) and metric. Once you find what threads in then tap it with a hammer.
 
It's the only one he has. That makes it rare indeed.

The arbor that holds the drill chuck may be meant for use with a drawbar, so if that's not present you either have to figure out what thread it is and make one, or perhaps you can find a short chunk of metal to slide into that oval slot (which is for a drift key) and then use the key to wedge against the top of the arbor while the key is whacked with a steel (not carpentry) hammer.

You'll need to figure out what size drift key you need, check the slot dimensions for reference. Or just buy a set like this, they're cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9378-Forged-Drift-4-Piece/dp/B0000DD05S

I'm thinking that this would be the only correct way to remove the chuck/taper. From ereplacementparts.com (with pics)

P1140984c.jpg
Drill Chuck Removal Tool Drill presses come with a special tool for removing their chucks called a chuck removal tool. This is the easiest way to remove a chuck from a drill press. The chuck removal tool is shaped to fit inside a special access window on the spindle of the drill press.
P1140990c.jpg
Hammering the chuck removal tool into the spindle window pushes the top of the chuck spindle down until its taper fit loosens and the chuck falls out of the press.


Steps:
1. Insert the chuck removal tool into the press's spindle window.
2. Lightly hammer the chuck removal tool farther into the window until the chuck falls out of the press.



P1140995c.jpg


Make sure that the drilling table of the press is raised up enough that the chuck is not damaged from its fall. Chuck removal tools can be found for separate sale for most drill presses.


Taper shank removal tools - McMaster-Carr
 
Yeah, that's fine, but [pedant hat on] the last pic with the claw hammer - popular wisdom tells us not to use claw/carpentry hammers for general striking purposes, as the faces are supposed to be harder than mechanics (machinists) ball peen-style hammers, which have faces hardened/tempered as appropriate for striking chisels and such.
 
Hi, ultimately I will need to buy a drawbar since mine is missing. Does anyone know if there are clones of this machine that go by another brand. What I meant by rare is that when I googled the luson lk-30 I got one forum topic with someone just asking its value. So in the usa at least it is unfortunately rare.
 
Hi, ultimately I will need to buy a drawbar since mine is missing. Does anyone know if there are clones of this machine that go by another brand. What I meant by rare is that when I googled the luson lk-30 I got one forum topic with someone just asking its value. So in the usa at least it is unfortunately rare.

Please re-read post #6
 
Rare is a term appropriate to several classes of goods, but does not necessarily imply value. It is many years since I saw a Bentley or a Yugo on the streets of my city. I guess they are both rare, but for very different reasons. When bad stuff gets dumped, the remaining supply of that bad stuff gets smaller, as does the number of people willing to buy it.

Larry
 
I will guess MT3 not R8. I think the tang on the chuck arbor is too short for a wedge to work. Draw bar may be 3/8" or MM12. get some all thread for a first attempt. R8 I think is 1/2" thread
 
I suspect it is MT3. If so, it could use either a draw bar with 3/8-16 threads or M10. I have both draw bars for my mill/drill. If it is R8, it could use either a 7/16-20 threaded draw bar or M12. Again, I have both draw bars for my R8 mill. Be careful here with the draw bars. The nut on the draw bar shaft is usually just pinned to the shaft with an 1/8" straight pin, so do not use more than just a small torque when tensioning the draw bar in the future or you will shear the pin. The purpose of the draw bar is to just hold the tool in to the taper to prevent the end mill helix from pulling the tool out of the taper during a cut. Drill chucks do not need a draw bar, as the force is up into the quill, not down away from the quill.
 
I'm thinking that this would be the only correct way to remove the chuck/taper. From ereplacementparts.com (with pics)

Drill Chuck Removal Tool Drill presses come with a special tool for removing their chucks called a chuck removal tool. This is the easiest way to remove a chuck from a drill press. The chuck removal tool is shaped to fit inside a special access window on the spindle of the drill press.
Hammering the chuck removal tool into the spindle window pushes the top of the chuck spindle down until its taper fit loosens and the chuck falls out of the press.


Steps:
1. Insert the chuck removal tool into the press's spindle window.
2. Lightly hammer the chuck removal tool farther into the window until the chuck falls out of the press.



P1140995c.jpg


Make sure that the drilling table of the press is raised up enough that the chuck is not damaged from its fall. Chuck removal tools can be found for separate sale for most drill presses.


Taper shank removal tools - McMaster-Carr

I will guess MT3 not R8. I think the tang on the chuck arbor is too short for a wedge to work. Draw bar may be 3/8" or MM12. get some all thread for a first attempt. R8 I think is 1/2" thread

R8 is 7/16-20

What is this "special tool" you speak of?? Last I knew it was called a drift (or drill drift), pretty standard tool in a machine shop.
 
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