Ox
Diamond
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
- Location
- Northwest Ohio
Wiring up a starter setup for a threading spindle.
Needs to go CW and latch 'till it gets to the front L/S.
Hits fwd switch and then spins CCW and latches until it hits the rear L/S and resets.
No PLC
I doo have a relay, but not sure if that is going to help?
I don't play with these too often, but when I doo - it would be more like a bridge crane pendant (momentary hold) or maybe PLC controlled. I robbed the starter set-up off of a transfer machine just now that I had set up with a PLC.
I doo this with air valves, but that is easy. Once switched - the spool stays detented.
Electric coils - not so much ...
So I played with it a little bit and I found that the center section here (the part labeled as 221) has continuity accrost the top two lugs AS WELL AS accrost the bottom two lugs - when relaxed. But when one side is pulled in, one or the other (upper or lower set) loses continuity.
That is about the opposite as I was expecting.
This is N/C, while I was expecting N/O.
So, what I have set up currently is two L/S's wired up in the N/C mode. This works fine for the most part - except the fact that there is no mechanical detent (or memory) to the "221" thingy.
Thus, as I was afraid of, if I cycle the power to the unit, it is a race to see which side latches in first, with no absolutes.
I would want it to start off in the CW mode if at all possible.
I was expecting that I would use the N/O (blue) wires to "start" the other side, but the "221 thingy" doesn't work the way that I expect/want it to. But I guess that is OK, other than the fact that I have no security as to which direction that it starts off.
Doo I need to get a "different # thingy"?
I would think that with a N/O "thingy" that I would use my blue (N/O) warrs from my L/S's to start the opposite side, and then it would latch in on it's own. I think that if I had it set up that way, that I could pirate some juice from the main machine START circuit to start my threading spindle starter in the right direction. I just don't see how I can doo that with a N/C "thingy".
Is there some other way to warr this that I have not thought of? (again - I am NO expert on these!)
I will try to make a long plate so that the rear L/S is held in much of the time, and that should take care of it, but still ....
I have googled and Ebay'd "Allen Bradley 221" thingy, but I don't get anything like this popping up. So I don't know ... wait ... I can see the back side of this thingy w/o taking it apart...199-MCA1_A
Yep - that pops up! But I still have no clue what the N/O version of this would be - if such a thing exists even...
Also note that this is not like a normal wiring of a machine tool, where you would hit the STOP button first. We can't coast here, I need to shift from one to the other swiftly.
EDIT:
Now it seems that maybe I just need to forget about the #221 thingy and use lugs #13 and #14 on each side to accomplish what I want done.
???
---------------------------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox
Needs to go CW and latch 'till it gets to the front L/S.
Hits fwd switch and then spins CCW and latches until it hits the rear L/S and resets.
No PLC
I doo have a relay, but not sure if that is going to help?
I don't play with these too often, but when I doo - it would be more like a bridge crane pendant (momentary hold) or maybe PLC controlled. I robbed the starter set-up off of a transfer machine just now that I had set up with a PLC.
I doo this with air valves, but that is easy. Once switched - the spool stays detented.
Electric coils - not so much ...
So I played with it a little bit and I found that the center section here (the part labeled as 221) has continuity accrost the top two lugs AS WELL AS accrost the bottom two lugs - when relaxed. But when one side is pulled in, one or the other (upper or lower set) loses continuity.
That is about the opposite as I was expecting.
This is N/C, while I was expecting N/O.
So, what I have set up currently is two L/S's wired up in the N/C mode. This works fine for the most part - except the fact that there is no mechanical detent (or memory) to the "221" thingy.
Thus, as I was afraid of, if I cycle the power to the unit, it is a race to see which side latches in first, with no absolutes.
I would want it to start off in the CW mode if at all possible.
I was expecting that I would use the N/O (blue) wires to "start" the other side, but the "221 thingy" doesn't work the way that I expect/want it to. But I guess that is OK, other than the fact that I have no security as to which direction that it starts off.
Doo I need to get a "different # thingy"?
I would think that with a N/O "thingy" that I would use my blue (N/O) warrs from my L/S's to start the opposite side, and then it would latch in on it's own. I think that if I had it set up that way, that I could pirate some juice from the main machine START circuit to start my threading spindle starter in the right direction. I just don't see how I can doo that with a N/C "thingy".
Is there some other way to warr this that I have not thought of? (again - I am NO expert on these!)
I will try to make a long plate so that the rear L/S is held in much of the time, and that should take care of it, but still ....
I have googled and Ebay'd "Allen Bradley 221" thingy, but I don't get anything like this popping up. So I don't know ... wait ... I can see the back side of this thingy w/o taking it apart...199-MCA1_A
Yep - that pops up! But I still have no clue what the N/O version of this would be - if such a thing exists even...
Also note that this is not like a normal wiring of a machine tool, where you would hit the STOP button first. We can't coast here, I need to shift from one to the other swiftly.
EDIT:
Now it seems that maybe I just need to forget about the #221 thingy and use lugs #13 and #14 on each side to accomplish what I want done.
???
---------------------------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox