Are horizontal mill arbors case hardened or hardened clear through?

Shaybuilder · Apr 19, 2020

I just purchased a new to me copy of a Deckel mill in like new condition with less than 100 hours on it. It has all the horizontal arbors except the 1" diameter which I use most. The end of the arbor needs to be ground to 20MM for the sleeve that rides in the needle bearing support and a 18MM thread for the nut to retain the sleeve,cutter & spacers. The arbor is a NT40 taper. I am wondering if I buy a good used arbor if it is case hardened then I could grind through the case hardening to the sleeve diameter and be able to cut the threads. If it is hardened through then I am out of luck on cutting the threads and will have to make a new arbor. If I make a new arbor what is the best material to use? I am concerned with it warping when I cut the keyway. Would making a arbor out of 4140 work?

thermite · Apr 19, 2020

Shaybuilder said:
I just purchased a new to me copy of a Deckel mill in like new condition with less than 100 hours on it. It has all the horizontal arbors except the 1" diameter which I use most. The end of the arbor needs to be ground to 20MM for the sleeve that rides in the needle bearing support and a 18MM thread for the nut to retain the sleeve,cutter & spacers. The arbor is a NT40 taper. I am wondering if I buy a good used arbor if it is case hardened then I could grind through the case hardening to the sleeve diameter and be able to cut the threads. If it is hardened through then I am out of luck on cutting the threads and will have to make a new arbor. If I make a new arbor what is the best material to use? I am concerned with it warping when I cut the keyway. Would making a arbor out of 4140 work?

"Some of each." Unhardened, through-hardened, case-hardened.

If need be, just anneal the end you have to cut and thread.
You can leave it that way, use a replaceable hardened sleeve for the needles to run against.

It's much the same tedium to straighten a USED arbour as one you've just made or one you have just bent your own self, and you might not HAVE to straighten a used one, so I tend to just buy mine.

I'd rather modify the over-arm for more than one type of arbor than modify even ONE arbour though. Bronze works. So do store-bought hardened and ground sleeves. So do "other" roller-bearings.

Similar amount of work, but fewer instances of it. And then yer "set". Run whatever yah have or can find.

2CW

theperfessor · Apr 19, 2020

I have made several different arbors, extensions and adapters to fit all sorts of straight and tapered fits. I eventually settled on 4140 pre-hardened, seems to be dimensionally stable and machinable. In my limited experience heat treating is more likely to cause warpage than using pre-hard.

thermite · Apr 19, 2020

theperfessor said:
I have made several different arbors, extensions and adapters to fit all sorts of straight and tapered fits. I eventually settled on 4140 pre-hardened, seems to be dimensionally stable and machinable. In my limited experience heat treating is more likely to cause warpage than using pre-hard.

I suppose yah could cut keyway down both sides, 180 opposite.

My luck, it'd just take a bend at 90 and 270, each for half of the run length!

dian · Apr 20, 2020

how much do you think i can straighten an arbor if its through hardened? its a 22mm 30 taper. i need 6 thou.

carlherrnstein · Apr 20, 2020

You can probably get it and if not what do you lose. You might watch this YouTube I have used this technique with success.

Ken hosford · Apr 21, 2020

Shaft like that are canidates for peening straight You take a cold chisel and round the end you peen on the inside corner of the transition radius to the shoulder with hardened components it can take a petty heavy hammer and confidence but it is awesome to watch thing be pounded back into straight it works by compressing material to move it .

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Are horizontal mill arbors case hardened or hardened clear through?

Shaybuilder

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thermite

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thermite

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dian

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carlherrnstein

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Ken hosford

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