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How can I keep a water separator from freezing?

Shaybuilder

Cast Iron
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Location
Nevada
I need to install a water trap/separator on the air line into my shop. The compressor is in a unheated building and we can get temperatures as low as -10 here in the winter. The problem is once the air line enters my shop it is in the attic space which is un-accessible and the air line branches off into several directions. Would a regular water trap work in the unheated area if it was wrapped with a heat tape in the winter? I manually drain the receiver tank although I would like to have a automatic drain if the freezing wasn't a problem. What do some of you do in cold climates?
 
When I was part time in Idaho in an uninsulated building I made an insulated outhouse for the compressor and seperator, the compressot makes plenty of warm all by its self, now the building is insulated and it isn't a oriblem anymore
 
I need to install a water trap/separator on the air line into my shop. The compressor is in a unheated building and we can get temperatures as low as -10 here in the winter. The problem is once the air line enters my shop it is in the attic space which is un-accessible and the air line branches off into several directions. Would a regular water trap work in the unheated area if it was wrapped with a heat tape in the winter? I manually drain the receiver tank although I would like to have a automatic drain if the freezing wasn't a problem. What do some of you do in cold climates?

A) You won't GET much moisture when the outdoor air is really cold - especially not if we are discussing high desert country.. so..

B) Re-route the first part of the run.

- Intercept the feed to the attic.
- Bring it into the warm(er) shop.
- Place the trap there.

THEN route it back and up to the distribution system.

Any sane size of line, you won't lose THAT much from the friction of the extra several feet the air has to travel.

Annnd the "loop" improves the effectiveness of the trap. Or can even BE the trap.. all you'd need is the blow-down valve at the low point.

That could net-out to a lower annualized cost than buying extra electricity for localized heat?

Even if you still add "some" heat, just to be certain, any "waste" goes to the credit of the shop - not the outbuilding.

Example of the "overlooked obvious":

For YEARS - our Hong Kong home - I had to haul all the usual under-kitchen-sink "stuff" out, place a dishpan to catch the water, flip on my back and reach up blind to shut off the valves and work a spanner, pull two water filters, clean the housings, replace the cartridges, mop-up, put it all back.

One fine day I got a relocation of brains, altered the plumbing, put both filter housings right at the cabinet front edge, just inside the doors.

Long story shorter, I then re-did the Virginia home, too.

The filters and valves for cooking and beverage use water-taps (several) are all now down in the laundry ... just above a stationary tub.

Storal of the morey?

"pipe exists!"


:D
 








 
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