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How do 3D "tasters" work?

lowCountryCamo

Stainless
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Location
Savannah, Georgia, USA
Been thinking about buying a 3D Taster and I have been trying to imagine how they work. I know how coax indicators work. They are dead simple. I have looked for diagrams or pictures of insides and come up empty. Is it a big secret?:confused:

Thanks Steve A
 
It's best thing you can invest in for your tool box. Super accurate for set up and can use controler dro to measure somewhat like a manual renshaw probe if I can call it that. Saved me at least 1 hour worth setup time first day I got it out of the box. Very much worth it. I haven't used it for a Z depth or gauge line ref. Just simple x/y setup and centering on circles, burnouts ect. and measuring hole sizes and distances. It's the cats rear end.
 
I think they are a bit like a Blake Coax, except the probe can be pushed in any direction, rather than only perpendicular to the hinge. Think of a Blake with the hinge replaced by a ball joint, but there's an added complication in that you can also displace the probe straight up (in Z) rather than just sideways in X and Y. I never use mine for Z probing. Maybe I should!
 
it's one of those things you just accept that it works.
not going to tear one open to find out.
makes life much easier on a VMC.
go with a genuine Haimer not some knock off, price isn't much different
it does need tool holder that it lives in, once you adjust it to be concentric
you want to leave it set up, need a good .0001 indicator to do it.
and order spare tips.
 
It's best thing you can invest in for your tool box. Super accurate for set up and can use controler dro to measure somewhat like a manual renshaw probe if I can call it that. Saved me at least 1 hour worth setup time first day I got it out of the box. Very much worth it. I haven't used it for a Z depth or gauge line ref. Just simple x/y setup and centering on circles, burnouts ect. and measuring hole sizes and distances. It's the cats rear end.

Totally agree. I do not know why I waited so long to get one.
 
it's one of those things you just accept that it works.
not going to tear one open to find out.
makes life much easier on a VMC.
go with a genuine Haimer not some knock off, price isn't much different
it does need tool holder that it lives in, once you adjust it to be concentric
you want to leave it set up, need a good .0001 indicator to do it.
and order spare tips.

Yes order a extra tip. I broke a few before I learned to slow down with it LOL. If you doing any deep work the extended length tip is nice to have around.

There is a guy on ebay that sells the Haimers with very good prices and fast shipping.His user id is patliam3d When I was braking a tips I would just call him and he ship it to me with a bill. I like that kind of service.
 
"a thing pushes on a thing..."
That's hilarious.

OK what "thing" do you recc. to buy....??Ive looked at a few but what is a decent one? Not looking for bargain basement, a GOOD one.

Paul
 
I trashed an analog Halmer last year. My own fault. I got too close to an internal keyway and the probe hung up. I sent it to a local instrumentation shop and was very pleased with their service, so yes they can be repaired reasonably.
 
Don't forget the Haff-Schneider taster. I have 2, and a similar (older) SPI clone, we like them all. I understand the Haff-Schneider has more overtravel than the Haimer, but can't verify that. Can't report on repair for the Haff-Schneider either, I haven't needed any yet.
 
I dissent. I don't like mine. I prefer a light up ball probe. I don't like how you have to approach surfaces perpendicular. To me that is the best reason to want a probe, to probe parts that aren't perpendicular to an axis.
 
Simplified explanation: above the probe tip, there's a spherical seat in the housing. There is a flange on the probe shaft which translates the sideways[spherical] motion to linear up/down via a similarly flanged shaft. Then a rack/pinion system drives the dial needle off that shaft.
 








 
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