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How to make holes on the surface of ring parts like attached picture.
- Thread starter laoadam
- Start date
- Replies 29
- Views 2,166
Larry Dickman
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2014
- Location
- Temecula, Ca
with a drill?
what exactly is the question?
what exactly is the question?
Gordon Heaton
Titanium
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2007
- Location
- St. George, Utah
If you're making the rings, mount on a rotary table or other indexing device and drill all the way through before parting off. If you already have the rings, mount them full depth in a soft collet and drill all the way through. If you don't screw up the indexing, you can change ring blanks and drill through the existing holes in the soft collet rim for each additional piece. If collets aren't an option you'll probably need to mount the rings on an arbor and drill each opposing hole separately. Obviously this will damage the arbor.
(The collets I speak of are the 'emergency' type where the gripping edge extends out front of the normal collet nose. They're usually made of aluminum or soft steel.)
(The collets I speak of are the 'emergency' type where the gripping edge extends out front of the normal collet nose. They're usually made of aluminum or soft steel.)
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
How large? What material?
Acids and/or electricity can work if you have an allergy to ignorant drills.
So can lasers, part is too tiny to even get a grip on. Or is made of Diamond. Lasers have been drilling diamonds for more than fifty years, already.
See also "EDM". A LOT more than fifty years in proven use.
Or S. Hattori and "chemical milling" utilized to mass-produce Seiko watches as could compete with Switzerland's best at a fraction of their cost. Also more than fifty years in proven use.
Plastics, castable alloys, compressed chiken shit, yah just put cores into the mold and yer holes "happen" automagically. That technique predates the invention of modern written languages.
Your "problem" hasn't got SQRT-FA to do with "holes".
Yer just too lazy to read and do the least damned bit of research!
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Dunno. 'minds be of a former US Marine teaching a HS health class.
We were into the endocrine system, students weren't making the connection as to how the human body PRODUCES what it needs, so he sez - with a trace of frustration:
"How do we MAKE a hormone?"
One of the guys who was probably destined to BECOME a US Marine, deadpans a pragmatic answer:
"Don't PAY her!"
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
So this is a molded pellet of chemicals intended as a urinal disinfectant, the holes to increase the rate of dissolution right?
Or a plastic molding as part of a deck-sprayer wand tip?
What size. What material. What prior or ongoing process as makes the ring to begin with, and from WHAT type of stock?
Can't grok WHY that "all that stuff" matters?
Then whomever tagged you as an "engineer" appears to have been mistaken, and badly so!
Gordon Heaton
Titanium
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2007
- Location
- St. George, Utah
You make the holes on location by spot drilling.
Scottl
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2013
- Location
- Eastern Massachusetts, USA
I'd probably use a homemade expanding mandrel in a spin indexer. All that is required is to turn to fit the ID, drill, tap and countersink for a flat head screw, and then slot crosswise so you have 4 slots 90 degrees apart.
If for multiples I would make a mandrel with a clamp ring similar to a slitting saw arbor and groove the mounting hub as needed for drill clearance.
AARONT
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2013
- Location
- Madison, WI
Go to desired location. Load spot, then spot, rotate, spot, rotate, etc. Next, load drill, drill, rotate, drill, rotate, etc. Load next drill, drill, rotate, drill, rotate, etc. Next, load tap, tap, rotate, tap, rotate, etc. Load next tap, tap, rotate, tap, rotate, etc. Holes are done.
If this doesn't help, then you need to ask a better question.
indianamoon
Aluminum
- Joined
- May 27, 2010
- Location
- South Bend
We always spotted the holes with a ball end mill of a slightly larger diameter to keep from wandering, and then spot with a center drill
Are you limited to 144 characters for some reason ?...
How many more questions to drag out the rest of the story before we can help you ?
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Shiney wood?
You send the CAD file off to a CNC shop with live tooling.
They have a wondrous-magical machine as sucks shiney wood bar up its ass, shits finished parts out its mouth!
Yah. I know. Sounds bass-ackwards, don't it?
But Collitches don' TEACH poor Jack about shit no more, these days. Gone outta fashion for Social Diseases.
So yah hafta put it into terms an "Engineer" can understand....
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
This is clearly an ideal job for a bridge mill
michiganbuck
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Mt Clemens, Michigan 48035
First count the holes and find out what machines are available for your use.
likely the minimum might be a vise and a hand held drill , but this would not make a very accurate part.
A drill press and vise might be the next step higher.
A milling machine and vise.
a milling machine with a work head with an index next.
A spin index with a 5/8 arbor would be a low cost work head.
a milling machine with rotary table
a precision cast machine.
You might multiply 3.1415 x 1.250 =3.9268 the distance around, and divide by the number of holes.
divided by 8 holes would be .4909 between each hole. so making a gauge to that you might scribe a line..but be careful because the scriber point may throw you off perhaps .002 at each line. gauge of .4888 or .4889 may be best...another scriber gauge at half the part width, perhaps .002/.003 less than width.
You could scribe the lines on a sheet of tape and the punch through the tape to locate the holes. might scribe and spot in a band of steel and drill for a reuseable gauge.
likely the minimum might be a vise and a hand held drill , but this would not make a very accurate part.
A drill press and vise might be the next step higher.
A milling machine and vise.
a milling machine with a work head with an index next.
A spin index with a 5/8 arbor would be a low cost work head.
a milling machine with rotary table
a precision cast machine.
You might multiply 3.1415 x 1.250 =3.9268 the distance around, and divide by the number of holes.
divided by 8 holes would be .4909 between each hole. so making a gauge to that you might scribe a line..but be careful because the scriber point may throw you off perhaps .002 at each line. gauge of .4888 or .4889 may be best...another scriber gauge at half the part width, perhaps .002/.003 less than width.
You could scribe the lines on a sheet of tape and the punch through the tape to locate the holes. might scribe and spot in a band of steel and drill for a reuseable gauge.
jims
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2004
- Location
- Sonora , Calif
How many holes in part? How wide is part?
I would use a Rovi ID collet and a Hardinge indexing fixture where yoU can set any hole pattern divided into 24.
Jimsehr
I would use a Rovi ID collet and a Hardinge indexing fixture where yoU can set any hole pattern divided into 24.
Jimsehr
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
CNC lathe, indexing capable spindle, power bar feed, drill / reamer back side of the cross, form tap the other side, both "live". Split-power with TWO slides, faster yet.
Run the parts fast enuf to make a human observer downright dizzy.
It's only piddly-small shiney-wood.
Larry Dickman
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2014
- Location
- Temecula, Ca
something tells me this guy aint coming back. IS this just a "Let me waste everyone's time asking a lame hypothetical question" or is this something you need to do? How many? What do you have available?
I would opt for a nine axis swiss machine, but if that's not in your budget, mill a piece square. Then mill the corners off at 45 deg. Now you can index it around just in a vise. Then turn it round. That's how I would do it if I only needed to make one and didn't have a rotary.
I would opt for a nine axis swiss machine, but if that's not in your budget, mill a piece square. Then mill the corners off at 45 deg. Now you can index it around just in a vise. Then turn it round. That's how I would do it if I only needed to make one and didn't have a rotary.
No tolerances....where is that "I've got a drill press" poster ?
