How to mount cup wheels in mill?

There are many cup grinding wheels for sale, but I can't find ANY arbors that would allow me to mount such a wheel in a mill. I could use an R8 arbor or a straight shank arbor that I could hold in a collet.

Many of the wheels have 20mm holes.

What am I missing? How does one do this?

Do I have to make an arbor?

Thanx, guys.

Why would you want to, a mill spindle is way to slow for grinding. Also there is no way to protect the ways from grinding dust.If you are hell bent to do this just save time and toss the mill out in the scrap right now....Phil

The decision to use a mill to grind depends on how often you intend to do it and to what lengths you are willing to go to protect the ways. In my humble opinion, there are valid opportunities to use a mill for grinding if you don't have access to other equipment. I don't own a surface grinder so I do sometimes use my mill for grinding with caution. Actually the only thing I grind on the mill is knives for planers and jointers. I have a jig for holding the blades that I made out of angle iron and use an 80 grit cup wheel on a slitting saw arbor I modified easily to fit the wheel. I find that using the X axis power feed is very handy for this as it allows unattended operation. I take the vice off and cover the table with aluminum foil from end to end then poke the jig bolts through the foil. The back ways are already covered with a bellows and I cover the front ways with foil as well since I don't move the Y axis after the setup.

I can't find

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Its simple - replace FIND with MAKE

abstruse said:

There are many cup grinding wheels for sale, but I can't find ANY arbors that would allow me to mount such a wheel in a mill. I could use an R8 arbor or a straight shank arbor that I could hold in a collet.

Many of the wheels have 20mm holes.

What am I missing? How does one do this?

Do I have to make an arbor?

Thanx, guys.

Click to expand...

Same reason you won't find 8 lug wheels to fit a mustang

Better to make a 1 1/4" wheel mount with it marked to set at the same radial position as made...but...

Fur surface finish improvement a fly cutter might work better than a dished end mill, For hard stock grinding the mill will not get up to grinding speeds so not as good as a real grinder. Grinding grit will make short life of a mill so you would be best off buying a grinder or trade mill time for grinder time.

When using a lathe or mill as a grinder only use your wife's best linens for cover-ups.

michiganbuck said:

Better to make a 1 1/4" wheel mount with it marked to set at the same radial position as made...but...

Fur surface finish improvement a fly cutter might work better than a dished end mill, For hard stock grinding the mill will not get up to grinding speeds so not as good as a real grinder. Grinding grit will make short life of a mill so you would be best off buying a grinder or trade mill time for grinder time.

Wwen using a lathe or mill as a grinder only use your wife's best linens for cover-ups.

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You're funny Buck.

I missed your humor while you were gone. Welcome back!

Straight shank holders are available in the common sizes. If you do a thorough search you will find them.

I also am of the school that no matter how carefully you shroud a mill if you use it repeatedly for grinding some grit will find its way in.

After briefly considering using the mill for sharpening I decided instead to use my DP for plane and chisel grinding. It's a bit of a kluge but it works. I take a thin plate for the angle vise to slide on and use a sequence of layers of paper to increase the feed and simply pass the vise under the wheel by hand. I find a nice new sheet of white printer paper to be ideal for this. I start by locking the quill so the wheel barely touches the work and proceed from there.

I've used this technique occasionally for some decades now. My first use was on a much smaller DP, Grinding a new as-machined AMT (the kit tool people) drill press vise to make it flat and square. Products from AMC were very roughly machined and always needed more work, usually done by filing and sanding. They used to advertise in Popular Mechanics and sold a range of kits for things like wood lathes, etc.

As others say, you have to protect your mill from grinding dust when using it for that purpose. I needed to sharpen the three blades for my Parks wood planer and couldn't find a local shop. i used a 1/4" arbor to hold a 3" stone with a 3/8" center hole. It worked great. I cleaned everything thoroughly afterwards. It's a job that would only be done very seldom. I agree that it's not wise in general to grind with your mill but I had no choice.

I used a spray bottle full of coolant mist and that kept the dust down and cooled the stone at the same time.

In any case, using the planer carefully with clean wood, this job is certainly not done very often.

ChipSplitter said:

You're funny Buck.

I missed your humor while you were gone. Welcome back!

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OT:
Chip, I'm out of town building deer blinds so working long hours and little time for PM. Think about what to material to make my product (print)of ,SS, mild steel with galvanize, with zinc or other rusty protection?
I will message you when I get a chance.
Buck

Cheap new VMC's (Think Haas class) last about 5 years run 24/7 as CNC grinders before they are ready for the dumpster.

I own an HMC that did a small amount of grinding. It didn't work well for the shop that bought it for that.

What kind of mill? B-port, 30 or 40 taper?
20mm is the most common hole for a cup wheel? In what world?
Bob

I made a cup mount some years ago. Still works.



(You would think that a 53.4Kb jpeg file would be displayed larger. What a bs system for pics)