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  1. #21
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    Powder coat sucks in my opinion. The smallest flaw and moisture gets under it and it gets rust under it. The trailer hitch on my truck was powder coated. I was returning a Bobcat and trailer I rented and the hitch looked bent. When I got home I looked it over and discovered that although the powder coat looked new the hitch was rusted out! My new hitch is made of stainless steel. No need for any paint.

  2. #22
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    It's been over qty (1) month from the OP.

    OP never came back, assume they succumbed to the paint fumes.....

  3. Likes GregSY liked this post
  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickyb View Post
    It is fairly simple. Paint will only stick to metal if it is clean and has high surface energy. Something like etching, sanding, media blasting and high temperature oxides give high surface energies. Simple way to know you have high energy is that the surface will wet with water. If water in any way beads or runs off, you are not there and paint will not stick. Near all solvents leave a residue which is counter productive. Surface energy is highly time sensitive and will disappear from the surface molecules in a matter of hours. So immediate painting is required. Primer is optional, depending on your particular needs.
    (I added the bolding dgf)

    This point bears repeating:Surface energy is the key to understanding paint adhesion. Dan Gelbart is a name familiar to some. He is a brilliant guy and a good teacher who lives 50 miles from me. He has done a very good series of videos on questions related to fabrication. One of them is a video on painting and surface preparation for painting. I recommend this video:

    YouTube

    He starts off talking about sand blasting as one of several options, but covers a lot of other important points and explains why they are important. (He also explains why most solvents, save alcohol, don't work well in preparation for painting and are actually counterproductive.) The whole series of videos is worthwhile.

    Denis

  5. #24
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    Not my area of expertise by any means, but...
    I've painted two lathes, and a mill now with S/W Macropoxy 646.

    Brush application, no thinning, and they "look" like crap, cosmetically. Very thick, doesn't flow well and nearly impossible to keep a wet edge for long. All that said, I couldn't really care less about how "slick" the finish is- I wanted durability, not appearance.

    It's an industrial epoxy- so it's specifically targeted at applications where prep is less than ideal.

    "MACROPOXY 646 Fast Cure Epoxy is a high solids, high build, fast drying, polyamide epoxy designed to protect steel and concrete in industrial exposures. Ideal for maintenance painting and fabrication shop applications. The high solids content ensures adequate protection of sharp edges, corners, and welds. This product can be applied directly to marginally prepared steel surfaces."

    I bought a two gallon kit 4 or 5 years ago- stored in conditioned space, it's still good despite the age.

  6. #25
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    Pay to have it painted by a real painter using proper catalyzed paints. Imron or the like is the good stuff.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by kustomizingkid View Post
    using proper catalyzed paints. Imron or the like is the good stuff.
    Yes, using a fresh air system not a filter mask.

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by cg285 View Post
    i shot at my target and missed. what did i do wrong? hahaha
    Forgot to look at the urinal instead of the graffiti.


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