Hi to All. I have been a member here for over 10 years and a Machinist for 43 years. I found the Practical Machinist website to be a great resource for information. Now it's time for me to ask a question. I have a 6 inch rotary table with a #2 Morse taper that looks like it was pressed in to the center of the table. It is recessed into the table from the top. I am sure that there are many fellow Machinists that have all sorts of uses for the tapered sleeve. I want to remove it so that I can turn a plug to fit into the bore deeper than the table will currently allow. My question is, Is there a way to remove the center plug with the mores taper without destroying or totally disassembling the table? Thanks for the advice in advance.
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How to remove a #2 Morse taper plug in a 6 inch rotary table
- Thread starter endmiller
- Start date
- Replies 22
- Views 4,407
plastikdreams
Diamond
- Joined
- May 31, 2011
- Location
- upstate nj
If you can get pictures it would probably help a bunch...and/or a description of the table
Andy St
Stainless
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2005
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
Photos and table ID would surly help. If it is just an #2 Morse arbor pressed in, can't you just pull it out? Drill and tap the center of the arbor. Thread in a length of threaded rod, slip a bushing large enough to clear the arbor, add heavy washer and nut. tighten till it pops out.
On some tables you can just push it out from the bottom, even easier.
Andy
On some tables you can just push it out from the bottom, even easier.
Andy
I tried to press the sleeve out from the bottom with my 20 ton press. It didn't budge, and I didn't want to force it. Then I thought that I should come here to Practical Machinist for guidance. I try to be careful with my tools. I was surprised to see that it was soft and not hardened. It has to be mild steel.
Cyclotronguy
Stainless
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2005
- Location
- Northern California
Internal fingers on a slide hammer or similar "off the shelf" bushing puller. You might even get lucky and find one as a loaner at the local auto parts store.
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
IMO that is not a bushing but the centre spindle for the table, which looks like and Asian import?? ……..and the centres of those are often MT
TGTool
Titanium
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2006
- Location
- Stillwater, Oklahoma
My assumption too. The table top is one piece, the axle a separate piece, and at the back you see just the remainder of the axle and the nut that retains everything and removes slack between the rotating assembly and the body. You might get more clarity by some partial disassembly from the back.
Also, if you describe more about what you're trying to accomplish with the alternate plug or whatever, you might get some other good advice.
Thanks for everyone's input today. After looking it over again, I just set it back in the hydraulic press and gave it everything it had by pressing it from the bottom. It didn't budge. I think to get it out, is has to be disassembled and pressed down from the top. I think my other option is to take and set up the table and Z minus another .250 or so off the top of the bushing, mill it out to within a few thousandth's of the bore diameter and peal the rest out with a small Woodruff key cutter. That's the plan. Thanks everybody. Have a good one.
Endmiller.
Endmiller.
I just have seen everyone's replies. Yes it is a Chinese import. My goal is to make 2 adapter plugs to insert into the bore of the rotary table and to set one of my lathe chucks onto the plug to center the chuck. I have a 6 inch 3 jaw, and a 6 inch 4 jaw chuck with mounting holes for socket head cap screws on top where the jaws are. They have different bore diameters in the backs of the chucks. One adapter plate would not work for both chucks. I felt making an adapter plate for each chuck just wouldn't be practical ether. By removing the #2 Morse tapered plug, turning two separate plugs for each chuck, and mounting the chucks down from the top seamed to be the best way for me to get it done.
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
Get some MT soft arbors and brew whatever you want Model Engineering and engineering tools online from RDG Tools Ltd Home Page (Engineering Tools) Tel 01422 885069 /884605
Gordon Heaton
Titanium
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2007
- Location
- St. George, Utah
Are you sure that's a plug, and not the spindle? I have an 8" Taiwanese Vertex that looks a lot like that, and I ended up boring the morse taper to a straight 1". I can use whatever center-fix I want with a 1" stub. I have had mine apart, but not in the last 10 years so I can't remember exactly how that was set up.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Same here.
Just mount your "goodies" ON a 2 MT tail. Might have to be a "stub", gage-line-wise, so just shop-fab them, and with threaded arse-ends for a drawbar.
My Ellis DH/indexer can do that. #9 B&S taper, not Morse, so a whole orchestra of my milling tooling fits it.
The 6" Yuasa/News rotab has 2 MT, like your one.
Should be info around for the threads used on 2 MT collets. Or not. Your shop, etc., do whatever works for you.
Fab a "drawbar" that will fit. Low-profile head and pin-spanner operated, probably.
Yah need positive indexing? Provide for a pin into one of the Tee-Slots. Or drill for one, closer to center.
Carefully. Prolly best it be a blind hole?
Dumpster_diving
Cast Iron
- Joined
- May 18, 2017
- Location
- Massachusetts
+1 on not continuing to press unless you know for sure it’s not integral to the center pivot. I’ve had similar apart and can at least tell you that removing the table doesn’t require as much work as complete disassembly. Shouldn’t take too much effort to remove the turntable to have a look.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Phhht! Well, WTF.
As it IS only a CHINESE rotab, yah... guess that ain't really "petty", all things considered...
I mean... does "too-easy" access to a PRESS rot the brain somehow? Good job I don't HAVE one.
Unbolt the comparable part on my Yuasa/News 6" rotab, and.. guess what?
