How to salvage this hydraulic fitting block?
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  1. #1
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    Default How to salvage this hydraulic fitting block?

    Trying to help my son salvage a $1K part for his bike...
    Natch, he brings it over after it's effed up, but hey- gotta learn our lessons somehow.

    It's the ABS computer, and the aluminum block holds the brake lines with flare fittings.
    He was attempting to replace the brake lines, and due to the ridiculously tight access ended up cross-threading several of them.

    The worst one he decided to drill it out, and tap for a power coil thread insert. It's the one at bottom-right corner.
    The other two have some damage to the male flare fitting end in the block, just from boogering around the brake fittings trying to get them in. Only one looks relatively unscathed.

    Told him that he should've tried a bottoming tap to try to chase the threads before going to the threading insert (I've ordered the correct one from McMaster to chase the other two holes, they look salvageable). Never used a threading insert for this type of application, and the bigger problem is he ended up drilling out the male flare fitting completely because he used a drill bit and went too deep with the tip (I've just pulled an end mill out of the cabinet to show him what they are).

    Is there any way to save this? Will the threading insert hold up to the pressure, and is there any way to seal this connection given the flare fitting is trashed? Are there any high-temp threadlockers that can be used to create a leak-proof bond guaranteed NOT to fail (these are brake lines, after all...). Could care less if he'll never get it apart again, if he needs to replace the brake lines again he can deal with it at that time.

    Even for the other two- one might seal with the flare fitting- the other I'm sure won't. Same deal- any way to seal these connections so that we're not relying on the flared fittings alone?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions...


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    Some old stuff used double flare inserts. Might be worth a shot to fix the threads and then make a new insert that fits into a reamed hole. Maybe some loctite for extra insurance.

    I'd say $1000 for a replacement will be cheaper than the repair bill if he was paying shop rate.

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    I have pulled the older inserts out by tapping the insert.However it looks like the seats are machined in to the block;one piece. But as Garwood says it is easy enough to make your own brass seats and press them in.They are captured so no worries about them comming out.

    I have made a quite few thread repair inserts by tapping a fine thread g5 bolt where an insert size is not compatible. Loctite them in place and it is as good as any insert. Leave the bolt whole and you can use the hex head to install than cut/machine the bolt flush after installing or just double nut a bolt to install just the insert. If you have room you can buy 1/8" male pipe adaptors to just about any female or male end you need.BSPP fittings are also available where you use a seal ring instead of inverted flare seats.

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    A lot of cars use an insert sealing with an external copper washer,and in the insert is a smaller flare fitting.....I used these to modify the master cylinder on my pickup,where the brake cylinder I needed is $500 but a different one with the same casting ,but two ports unmachined is $50 on ebay.

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    I would look on eBay for a take-off.

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    I think what John K. is saying is an adapter fitting - which is what I'd go to. Tap straight thread and seal with washer.

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    I’ve had this happen, if poss cut for face o rings, second plate sits on top, tapped correctly, access is your enemy there but it works (recently replaced a jcb servo hydraulic valve with several mangled threads (I wasn’t the dipshite but these things happen, it is a major rejig but doable,
    Mark

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    Anti lock brakes on a bike? ...............FFS - whatever next?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Anti lock brakes on a bike? ...............FFS - whatever next?
    Bikes with electrics that actually work. That is, not made by Lucas.

    PDW

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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Bikes with electrics that actually work. That is, not made by Lucas.

    PDW
    That I can only approve of, but anti f'kn lock brakes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    That I can only approve of, but anti f'kn lock brakes?
    I'm all for it - saved my life about 2 years ago. Familiar local road, cresting a slight but blind rise at speed. whole line of stationary cars right in front of me. About 100-0 in the shortest time ever with a death grip on the lever. Stopped about 6" behind the bumper of the last car in line....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Anti lock brakes on a bike? ...............FFS - whatever next?
    Hell my '69 Triumph Bonneville has anti lock brakes! Drums on both ends, I call them plan ahead brakes!

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    Hell my '69 Triumph Bonneville has anti lock brakes! Drums on both ends, I call them plan ahead brakes!
    Are those the ones that saved on replacement shoes, as the originals never wore down?

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    nonsense...a 69 triumph 650 has the 8" TLS BSA/Tri front brake,best drum brake ever put on a bike.....you can screech the tire with just two fingers on the lever at 60mph.

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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    A lot of cars use an insert sealing with an external copper washer,and in the insert is a smaller flare fitting.....I used these to modify the master cylinder on my pickup,where the brake cylinder I needed is $500 but a different one with the same casting ,but two ports unmachined is $50 on ebay.
    Not sure if I'm on the right track here...they don't come in M10 x 1 which is what's needed, but maybe add an adapter to the adapter to get there?

    McMaster-Carr

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    Looks like a used one on fleabay for $98

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  20. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Neill View Post
    I'm all for it - saved my life about 2 years ago. Familiar local road, cresting a slight but blind rise at speed. whole line of stationary cars right in front of me. About 100-0 in the shortest time ever with a death grip on the lever. Stopped about 6" behind the bumper of the last car in line....
    I know all that Peter, and it makes sense, BOTOH part of me still likes to live (or die) through the seat of my pants.

    That said, I'm convinced that if both the car and motorbike were invented today they'd be immediately banned on safety grounds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    I know all that Peter, and it makes sense, BOTOH part of me still likes to live (or die) through the seat of my pants.
    Yeah but I'd much rather have ABS on a bike than a car, given the option.

    Currently I have neither. But then I also no longer ride bikes on the road. It's not really my skill I'm concerned about, it's the lack thereof of the car drivers. Had my quota of broken bones thanks all the same.

    PDW

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    If it was mine and I was doing for my self and would not sue myself...Drill out the bad hole,s and tap to pipe thread and buy brass fittings to go from pipe to inverted flare, loctite in....keep in mind this is my way for me only...Phil

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    Have to say that the original pic looks very much like the ABS block on my BMW bike, what is it from?
    I also had to replace the ABS unit on mine, although I don't know if it was a failure of the attached electronics (an integral part of the unit) or the valve block itself.


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