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how to setup rod for milling
- Thread starter pigpen60
- Start date
- Replies 11
- Views 1,978
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
How long is this 1/4 rod?.
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
V-Blocks are your answer.
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
In one piece?
If so,......unless you've a milling machine with 36" of travel you're in for a lot of messing about.
Silly Q, are you sure it's not available as a ''standard part.''?
If so,......unless you've a milling machine with 36" of travel you're in for a lot of messing about.
Silly Q, are you sure it's not available as a ''standard part.''?
Murf
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2004
- Location
- Yankee Hill / California
Just seen some on McMaster Carr website last night. I don't what material you require but you might give them a looksy.
oldbikerdude37
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2010
- Location
- milton freewater oregon
easy deal just mill a fixture. take some flat bar and mill a slot in it. tap some holes for hold downs and its ready to run.
figured someone would have done this already and i was just hoping for your thoughts on the setup. a fella where i work milled a flat on said rod by moving it in the vise repeatedly. not precision but it worked for his needs. a book showing interesting/clever methods of securing things would be cool. tom
stephen thomas
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2001
If you step off in a vise or other fixture, first clamp a Vee block to one end, to register with an adjustable parallel or similar to the table to keep the flats all in the same plane.
I have put flats on long 5/16" and a number of 12mm rods on the surface grinder. Easy to do full length on the magnet. Block both sides with 1/8" thick parallels to keep it from rolling, and the "far" end to prevent sliding.
Planer is an alternative; but I might still be inclined to use mag chuck(s) if available. With adequate blocking it simplifies holding thin squirmy stuff, so long as there is not too miuch stress relieved in the machining process. (depends on material condition). Otherwise it is a fence and clamp dogs, perhaps with blocking.
smt
I have put flats on long 5/16" and a number of 12mm rods on the surface grinder. Easy to do full length on the magnet. Block both sides with 1/8" thick parallels to keep it from rolling, and the "far" end to prevent sliding.
Planer is an alternative; but I might still be inclined to use mag chuck(s) if available. With adequate blocking it simplifies holding thin squirmy stuff, so long as there is not too miuch stress relieved in the machining process. (depends on material condition). Otherwise it is a fence and clamp dogs, perhaps with blocking.
smt
my initial thought would be to drill a 1/4" hole lengthwise is a fixture. then mill lengthwise to expose the area that needs the flat surface of the rod flattened. on the ends of saif fixture leave enough material to allow setscrews to be used to secure/index the flat of the rod.
hope I explained well enough......... its clear in my mind
hope I explained well enough......... its clear in my mind
Metalcutter
Titanium
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- San Diego
adammil1
Titanium
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2001
- Location
- New Haven, CT
I don't know how well it would work but I am picturing a fixture with a 1/4" hole drilled in it and an adjustable stop that slides down on the other end and makes the whole thing look like a D shape that prevents rotation of the rod. Then manually slide the rod through and take light cuts, cutting up stream of going through the d. If you are lucky it may be doable by hand but don't take aggressive cuts. May need to use some sort of bearing. Has anyone done similar to this? Kind of like bringing wood working techniques to metal work?
I have hand turned parts to put radius on them in a mill and it works well enough. What ever you do, don't climb mill.
I have hand turned parts to put radius on them in a mill and it works well enough. What ever you do, don't climb mill.
