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How to take apart a Troyke R9 rotary table?

Trboatworks

Diamond
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Location
Maryland- USA
I just received a Troyke R9 rotary table which had been in storage for decades.

Some of the oil had gone to varnish and the movement is too stiff.
I refreshed oil everywhere which helped but still too stiff and I’d like to pull the table and clean it up.

I just pulled the threaded collar under the table- next move?
I tried a couple of light taps with a plastic mallet and no luck.
I don’t want to force anything so next step to lift table?

Here is a photo of what’s done so far.
The collar removed and the round slotted stud backed out:

3D6EEE4F-54D5-4FA2-9861-FAFC0A28E95C.jpg

Thanks all
 
Do not hammer / push it from behind! You need to remove the worm from the worm wheel first. Else you might bend the shaft or damage them.
 
Thanks- how is the worm wheel removed?
Just disengage?
That was very gummy and I didn’t want to force but got it screwed out to the point where table free rotates.

This is that knob:

C6EE3F6C-9EE4-4694-831A-22D850CF57F7.jpg
 
Guys- after I was able to get the worm disengaged I was able to work the table around and with enough oil got the table to spin free.

I might just leave together but would like still know how to pull table in that case that I want to open this up at some point.
How this is acting I am assuming the table lock has to come off as well?
 
Yours looks a little diferent that mine as far a the lock. Mine has a tapered pin under the locking screw and you may have to use a magnet to get it out. The one at work has two locking screws.

To remove the pivot pin take out the set screw near the bottom. Mine had been in a long time and the pivot pin did not unscrew easily. Once removed the whole worm arm can come out.

The one at work has a retaining nut and a timken bearing holding the rotary plate in.

Mine at home instead of a timken has a cast iron tapered and spit sleeve to snug up on the main pivot pin. I recall drilling and tapping screw holes to pull it out. Mine was gummed up pretty tight also and full of chips inside.

Yours looks like the split sleeve.

I ended up mounting it on a face plate and turning the bottom face flat and the stud true. I ground the bearing surface on the base but ended up scraping the base to match the top.

Dave
 








 
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