How would you set this up? (boring for bearing e-z sleave)

woodsrider845 · Dec 11, 2020

Electric motor shell. Bearing area is app. 11.5" deep. How would you do it? I do these regularly, just not this exact one. Curious to see machine/ set up choices.

crossthread · Dec 11, 2020

Can you get the end off?

woodsrider845 · Dec 11, 2020

I'd call it a "torpedo" casting.

Only accessible from one end. < Insert sad face here

>

I machined the ring plate to be able to grip in the lathe.

Unfortunately, it uses the handle bolts, and there are only two. I had 30 thou of deflection with just a light hand slap on the end.
If I did it on a mill, With the boring head extension, and the depth of the entire casting, making adjustments on the boring head is next to impossible. Guess I need to get a riser....

Limy Sami · Dec 11, 2020

I'd look in to making a set of tall jaws for the lathe chuck ????

Joe Gwinn · Dec 11, 2020

Can you use a 4-jaw chuck to clamp to the outside of the cylindrical part? That may have been the OEM approach.

Forestgnome · Dec 11, 2020

Can't use a reamer?

woodsrider845 · Dec 11, 2020

Joe Gwinn, Limy Sami's idea kinda answered that one for me. But.... The "bottom" is an offset round protuberance,and the overall outside is a taper, making straight clamping an issue. Take a look at the second picture, the one with the tape measure. You can see the ring I made, and the reason why straight up 4 jaw clamping won't work, without tall jaws.

Limy, I think I'd still need to machine a flat clamping area on the body o.d. with the tall jaws.
I'm kind of thinking the oem had a vertical fixture on a jig borer.

woodsrider845 · Dec 11, 2020

Forest,
Never even considered it. The bore is flucked, needing to be oversized for an e-z sleeve, then the sleeve machined for the bearing. I wish it were that easy.

Joe Gwinn · Dec 11, 2020

woodsrider845 said:
Joe Gwinn, Limy Sami's idea kinda answered that one for me. But.... The "bottom" is an offset round protuberance,and the overall outside is a taper, making straight clamping an issue. Take a look at the second picture, the one with the tape measure. You can see the ring I made, and the reason why straight up 4 jaw clamping won't work, without tall jaws.

Limy, I think I'd still need to machine a flat clamping area on the body o.d. with the tall jaws.
I'm kind of thinking the oem had a vertical fixture on a jig borer.

How about four tall jaws, with gripping faces curved to fit on the housing body? This allows the bore to be offset from the housing body.

atex57 · Dec 11, 2020

To me it looks like an HBM job and indication is gonna be a booger.

Ed.

woodsrider845 · Dec 11, 2020

atex57 said:
To me it looks like an HBM job and indication is gonna be a booger.

Ed.

But. But. That would be the easy way out.

Phil in Montana · Dec 11, 2020

The motorman in me comes out, what about all them fine chips inside the winding's??...Phil

woodsrider845 · Dec 11, 2020

Phil in Montana said:
The motorman in me comes out, what about all them fine chips inside the winding's??...Phil

The winding's are toast. They will be burned out and rewound. That's why the machining will be done now.
I don't want to have have to go back in after it's rewound, because of all those fine chips.

Phil in Montana · Dec 11, 2020

Ok , well if this a repeat job, make a bolt on end that bolts to the open end, and will turn in you steady and will have a flat face to indicate too. Then make a heavy boring bar that will reach the bearing fit, bigger the better. Dial in the housing and bore and sleeve...Phil

wheels17 · Dec 11, 2020

If you were to put a couple of threaded holes in the ring half way between the ones on the handles, you could preload the ring against the back of the casing. This would stiffen up the mounting since the ring couldn't rock on the handle flats. Cup points would mar the housing, but it doesn't look like that is a worry.

You are really only machining a couple of inches out from the chuck. Sure, you have a long reach in, but all of the casing from the bearing housing out is irrelevant unless you are spinning it fast enough for imbalance to come into play. A .030 deflection at the rim is only about .003 down at the bearing seat.

HuFlungDung · Dec 12, 2020

Face the outside end of the bottom of the casting flat. Drill more blind holes and tap them so you can affix your setup plate securely. Use a 2" diameter boring bar to reach the bearing surface. I would make the sleeve to fit the bearing nicely, and with about .001" installation clearance. Use Loctite to secure it. Don't want to have to skim cut that one for the final fit in place.

Also get the stator removed first. You don't need the extra mass and lack of clearance it creates.

BTDT.

Also, don't be afraid to mill or turn better registration surfaces on endbells. Doesn't matter a damn if they look exactly like original or not, lots of times there is no way in hell you can get the thing set up a second time with the same serrated gripper that the factory used to chuck the thing.

Ray Behner · Dec 12, 2020

I like what Hu said 'cept while you're at that end maybe take a look at possibly working from that end with a short bore bar and make a cap/plug when you're done? All mill work.

john.k · Dec 12, 2020

I fixed a motor with a loose bearing with a paper liner soaked in green loctite......Temporary repair still going two years later.......Most modern motors dont have enough margin in the die casting to allow for a liner to be installed.....the old time alternative is to copper plate the bearing OD.....not difficult to get a 006 increase in OD in a few hours.....This was a common method of fixing loose bearings in old motorbike crankcases.

woodsrider845 · Dec 12, 2020

Hu, can't do that. Facing it flat will eat through it. Yeah, I'd like the windings out, too, but it will be sent out for that, and they're not gonna run it back and forth...
Ray, not going to do that either. It's a submersible grinder pump. Mill work? sure. But ,none of my mills are tall enough.

john, paper ain't gonna fix the chewed up bore, nor alleviate the ridge.

Guess I'll just go buy the big boy pouch of big league chew and pack it in there....

Ray Behner · Dec 12, 2020

woodsrider845 said:
Hu, can't do that. Facing it flat will eat through it. Yeah, I'd like the windings out, too, but it will be sent out for that, and they're not gonna run it back and forth...
Ray, not going to do that either. It's a submersible grinder pump. Mill work? sure. But ,none of my mills are tall enough.

john, paper ain't gonna fix the chewed up bore, nor alleviate the ridge.

Guess I'll just go buy the big boy pouch of big league chew and pack it in there....

Tig a cap on when complete?

How would you set this up? (boring for bearing e-z sleave)

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