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Moulded plastic surface finish

VALVEman

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 6, 2012
Location
Australia
Hi,i am designing a new part to be made out of plastic via injection moulding,what kind of surface can be achieved in an injection moulded part in micrometer's.?

Our aim is to use the part as a cylinder body to hold air pressure against a piston seal.
 
Can't quote numbers, but you know that there will taper to the inside. Probably need at least 1/4-1/2 degree per side. That translates to .004"-.008" inches per side per inch.

Tom
 
It is not that uncommon to mold a part that serves as a clear window. So molds can produce a near optical surface finish on the part in reasonably common production. Yes it costs more, due to polishing.

Yes, the cylinder will be a problem due to taper needed to get the part off the core.

With a polished finish, the draft can be kess, maybe the seal can conform to the taper? I have seen similar things done, such as all plastic tire inflating pumps. They used am o-ring or two, as I recall
 
yes taper would be there to get the spruce or core out, will make it difficult to maintain uniform seal.
cant think of doing it any other way.

Any suggestions
 
A pump with the O ring on the piston only gets away with it if the pressure is low. When pumping, both the motion and the air pressure tends to roll the O ring into the gap between the piston and the cylinder wall. If you are air actuating a piston, then O rings on it are correct. If you are pumping, you want the O ring in a groove in the cylinder and the good finish has to be on the piston. If you need to accommodate a taper, a lip seal may be a better choice. Since you don't say which way it is going to be, this dissertation may be unneeded.

Bill

P. S. If you do have such a mold made, remember that salt in perspiration rusts steel and resist the temptation to run a finger over the polished surface. If you do, do not expect understanding from the mold polisher. You will not get any. I have made a few polished molds and it is tedious, demanding work.
 
If you have enough money, you can have almost anything done. The mold might take a lot of maintenance or be a bitch to run, but there are lots of ways to make a part.

Taper or draft can be limited on the part, but usually only to one surface. You can have taper on the outside with no taper on the inside or vice versa.

Also with finish, it depends on the material also. Better finishs cost more money and require more maintenance.
JR
 
Lip seals, yes....

The syringes often have the whole end compliant, some have a big o ring. I have never measured a syringe bore for taper.

The collapsible cores, do they tend to leave fins?
 
You can mold without draft on the core, it just takes more ejection surface area, I have made many molds like this. Surface finish depends almost as much on the plastic and molder as much as the mold. Keeping the tube round may/will be an issue. Glass filled resins will help but will require more out of the molder to get that nice surface finish. Long glass filled polyurethane resins were the most dimensionally stable type I ever worked with, they were a godsend when trying to mold precision structural parts. Oring grease will go a long way in maintaining a seal and reducing wear.
 
Best to talk to your moldmaker for advice. We can't know enough about the part design and possible design modifications to give a definite answer.

As stated above, you can do ANYTHING if you have enough money.
Alternate mold designs, (and costs), will give you options.
 
there are FRP TUBES AVAILABLE IN MARKET ,BUT THE CYLINDER DESIGN FROM OUTSIDE IS NOT A STRAIGHT CYLINDER IT MORE ROUNDED AT BOTTOM FOR ASSEMBLEY PURPOSE
 








 
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