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Insulating Walls on Morton Pole Barn ???

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
Northwest Ohio
9' centers with 6x6 poles

I have a storage shed that we built last yr coming down when this project is ready anyway, and it has oodles of 4x6 and 6x6 by 14' poles under it that I could use to space in the middle and then maybe I could get away with 4' vinyl backed batting. Not sure on that, and I can't find any leftover rolls around here from yesteryear to measure.

Feller at the lumber company tells me that most guys just hang multiple rolls of 16 and/or 24" batting as needed to fill the length.

I don't think that there is any money to be saved on product one way or the other. Only thing would be that I would have a lifetime supply of 6bys for stacking steel bundles on... :D

Will be covering with steel.

Anyone have much experience with insulating a Morton?


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Sweating to the Oldies!
Ox
 
i insulated my building last winter, with 4' wide sections of insulation that was previously used in a cold storage facility. they cut it skid length when they tore it out, but it looks like it was mfg 4' wide at the factory. its got an aluminum backing that is painted white. it was only about 2" thick so i could just overlap the seams and staple it with a hammer tacker. still trying to decide what to do about the ceiling...

barn.jpg


only pic i have....im still at work...6am till...death
 
When I had my Cleary Building put up I had a 14 x 45' shop built inside to be my shop and had them insulate it . They framed between the poles with 6 x 6's and put 6" bats of insulation and then I had them use the same metal to coat the inside, it's white. I had them put the same metal on the ceiling and I blow in some insulation up there by myself. I also had a Insulated garage door put in too.... very cozy in the winter and my small window ac is all I need in the summer. I poured concrete in there too. I bet if you looked at Morton's website or had them send you a quote, you can get an idea of what you will need.
 
You might want to look into tekfoil (bubble wrap) from farm tek. It comes in 8 x 125 foot rolls. I have used it in the past, building is still nice and tight 18 years latter.
 
Got 3 Morton buildings. 2 have 7' 6" post spacing insulated, the old one has 9', it is uninsulated. They have the rolls of 6" thick fiberglass insulation wide enough to fit tightly in between the 7' 6" posts but not sure on the 9'.

I would call the Kenton office.
 
I used 'mobile home' insulation, which comes on rolls 4 feet wide x 6" thick and about 44 feet long. I cut lengths to fit. Knauff makes it.

My Morton building is way better insulated than my house, not only for the reason above but because the walls are so thick.

You can see in the pic that I used 5/8" sheetrock on the walls then exterior metal roofing to make the ceiling. Then the same insulation is laid on top of the ceiling panels in the attic.


Insulating walls.JPGInsulating walls3.JPGinsulating walls2.JPG
 
2x's are cheap. 9' centers? You should be able to use 9' pre-cut studs(trim as needed). Pre-cut studs are as cheap as they get. It will make it easy to line out with steel too. Buy some 24" bats and start stuffin. That's how I've seen most buildings finished out.
 
The way I finished the walls, with 2x4 crossbeams, is how Morton recommended. If I had 2x6's for free I would have used them, though.

I like the sheetrock I used because it looks less industrial and is dead quiet. It also adds a bit more insulation. If I were in Ohio that would be especially important to me.

Here's how the walls are made up, starting from the outside:

Brick
Tyvek
Plywood
2x4 crossbeams
2x6 upright poles with above mentioned Knauf insulation between
2x4 crossbeams
5/8 sheetrock

I did not use a vapor barrier on the inside...after a lot of discussion it was decided that here in Houston, where humidity is an issue, it's best to let the walls breathe a little. In Ohio things might be different.
 
I did not use a vapor barrier on the inside...after a lot of discussion it was decided that here in Houston, where humidity is an issue, it's best to let the walls breathe a little. In Ohio things might be different.

I think we've got yer humidity covered just fine...


I just called Morton. They have 7'2" and 7'6" insulation.
Nothing for 9' centers.
Boy - that would have been too easy eh?


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It's not so much the heat, it's that gosh darned humidity
Ox
 
I don't see the need for insulation wider than 4'. You can always cut it to suit the spread of your pole beams. So in effect you would have 4' x 9' (or whatever) batts.

The insulation I used was 4' and worked very well because working alone a person can handle it. As you can see I laid it horizontally.


I made a sort of clamp out of a couple 2x6's, hinged at one end. I cut a lengthwise slit down the center of the top 2x6 for a knife blade guide. I laid the insulation over the bottom 2x6, closed the top 'jaw' 2x6, and then ran a Bowie knife down the slit which cut the insulation in one pass. It gives a very clean, straight, and fast cut.
 
var wing 125.jpgvar wing 115.jpgif your looking for the best spray foam is it. In any biulding foam insulation seals all air leaks and bonds every thing together no need for a vapor makes the biulding super quite.

If your going fibeglass I would recomend puting somthing like tyvek or foam against the tin so the insulation dont touch sence the tin sweats alot

There are two ways iv done this the the pics are of a biulding I did and we put 1 1/2 foam betwen the perlings raped the out side with tyvek tin over that and in side 6 x24 fiber glass plus a 4mil vaborvar wing 042.jpg

The other way was a prebiult biulding that I finished the inside ther we put up 1/2" foam against the perlinge and 6x24 bat works out realy nice I think I have more pics
 








 
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