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Interapid indicators

Joined
Nov 4, 2018
What's going on with interapid? I just bought 3 brand new indicators through MSC and had to send the horizontal one back because it wasn't repeating and it was just the 2nd time I went to use it, now the vertical one is starting to act the same way. They are both .0005 indicators. I'm now wondering what the other one is going to be like it's a .0001 indicator and I definitely want that one to be right on. I have about 20 indicators half ripped apart at home that I'm trying to get to work and I like the interapid but will go to another brand if they work and hold up good. Any advice would be great, thanks
 
What criteria does an Indicator need to present to make it to the rebuild table at home? You might be asking too much of them. What standard are you using to qualify an Indicator?

R
 
You're not answering the question. How are you testing the repeatability of an Interapid test indicator?

Height Gage and Gage blocks?

Micrometer?

DRO?

Feeler Gage?

How?
 
With 20 indicators in the rebuild/repair pile, just guessing they aren't rejects from Long Island.

R

I spent ten years with never fewer than two full-time watchmakers on-staff. One of the best had begun as an aircraft instrument repairman, London area, War Two. I have the fine tools as are appropriate, am accustomed to working under 20 and 40-power magnification, but...

If any of mine that are WORTH it need it, they would go off to Dorsey (as I am Hamilton/P&W/Dorsey "heavy") ELSE Long Island Indicator.

As with any other highly skilled speciality, well equipped and expertly skilled alone are not good enough.

One has to also be a REGULAR hand at <whatever>, lest all the TIME be sucked clear out of the room retraining after each coffee break!

Long Island (or Dorsey) can do in minutes what could take me the whole damned DAY, so even if I matched their outcomes, there are LOTS of things I cannot AFFORD to DIY!
 
We'll see. Maybe the Op will respond with "I use a Zeiss Micura with a Cantilever on a Gantry, with Calypso V22, and an Octagon Test Indicator Calibration station, in a 68ºF double door Laboratory". Or he might say, "I use a drill Chuck and a Drill press and ma eyeballs on a piece of Metal".

R
 
We'll see. Maybe the Op will respond with "I use a Zeiss Micura with a Cantilever on a Gantry, with Calypso V22, and an Octagon Test Indicator Calibration station, in a 68ºF double door Laboratory". Or he might say, "I use a drill Chuck and a Drill press and ma eyeballs on a piece of Metal".

R

LOL! Well .. I can do the double-doors, even "almost" the temp control. But both only accidents of layout.

OTOH, I once observed an open-air watchmaker adding tools to his collection. He was making screwdrivers out of slender wire box nails salvaged out of wooden pallets. Watches ran OK.

Some made fair reliable timers for IED's too, pre "cheap-electronics" era. You'd not really have wanted to have "been there".
 
I have about 20 indicators half ripped apart at home that I'm trying to get to work and I like the interapid but will go to another brand if they work and hold up good. Any advice would be great, thanks

Stop doing meth, best advice I can give you.
 
but will go to another brand if they work and hold up good. Any advice would be great, thanks

I've got my first test indicator, B&S .0005". I also have my Grandpa's B&S .001". Plus about 10 more all in zero state of disrepair. All functioning perfectly (for what they are). I own Interapid (favorite), Mahr/Federal, Mitutoyo, Blake, SPI (1980's), Starret, and a China made one or two.

Point is they ALL every one, does what they were meant to do, what I expect them to do. They do not Golf well, or make toast.

R
 
What's going on with interapid? Any advice would be great, thanks

Go back to post #5 and add to the the list any (load/travel) direction changes you may be doing. The added lever that you swivel to adjust is the achilles heel of these things. Most (maybe all) will be worse when you reverse the travel parallel with the swivel arm axle. IME Interapid have always been among the best both ways for this problem.

If you use one clamped to a cadillac or hite-master type gage & take it down to a given number and it wont repeat, you have a problem. If you adjust the gage down .0101” and it says .0099” your lever angle is something other than 0 or 90° to the gage arm inside the indicator (so no problem if you know that in advance).

I would expect that indicator when dropping straight down to a location in a bridgeport with the quill stop set, to repeat until you’re tired of fooling with it. Don’t use the quill lock BTW...

Good luck,
Matt
 
I've got my first test indicator, B&S .0005". I also have my Grandpa's B&S .001". Plus about 10 more all in zero state of disrepair. All functioning perfectly (for what they are). I own Interapid (favorite), Mahr/Federal, Mitutoyo, Blake, SPI (1980's), Starret, and a China made one or two.

Point is they ALL every one, does what they were meant to do, what I expect them to do. They do not Golf well, or make toast.

R
I have two .002mm Interapids that must have been a decade old when I got them almost 20 years ago, one hasn't had a crystal on it in 10 years, both work perfectly. Ought to send them one at a time for a service anyway at this point- agree with thermite, best left to pros- and I'm a watchmaker.
 
It doesn't come back to zero - it sticks - while I'm still indicating a piece in. When I take the indicator off the machine it should return to zero, not go to some odd spot anytime it feels fit
 
Only 3 or 4 were sent in for repairs and lasted about 1 year, got tired of wasting my money and got new ones until I found the time to rip em apart myself and interapids ain't easy lol
 
It doesn't come back to zero - it sticks - while I'm still indicating a piece in. When I take the indicator off the machine it should return to zero, not go to some odd spot anytime it feels fit


You DO know how to set a working "zero", yah? "Coz "zero" is wherever "odd spot" you have SET it to be, Pilgrim.

Unloaded is where it was BEFORE you set a zero. Those are SUPPOSED to disagree.

Otherwise...

There was a period in history when "Federal" had gone pig-stupid and used UNhardend guts wherein they earned a notorious reputation for sticking.

NO other indicator, new or used, cheap or dear, that had not been DAMAGED or gone full of coolant and gummed-up, has ever exhibited that sort of stick, and I own dozens, have used more dozens not my own, damned near any brand you've ever heard of and more than a few you might never.

This "sounds like a personal problem" to most of us. You aren't perchance in the industrial acids production biz, are you?

Or maybe just bashing the indicators so damned hard against over-travel you HAVE damaged them, "Day One, hour One, minute One"?

Indicator holders are made able to MOVE or push clear-OFF a magnet for a reason.

Deny an indicator any place to safely retreat to, it ain't the least bit slow, nor at all hard to bend, bash, or otherwise f**k-up one sensitive indicator after another until all the money has left the building.

I ain't perfect. Just realistic. My ten-dollah Chinese "disposable" ones save the very lives of my Hamiltons, Dorseys, P&W, B&S, Bestest, Compac, Tesa, Interrapids, Starretts, etc.

Something is WRONG here, and it isn't on the production line of the indicator makers.
 








 
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