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Johnson Bandsaw Cut Drift?

Gazz

Stainless
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Location
NH
I have a smaller Johnson bandsaw that came to me in pieces that has been working well for me for the past year or so. Lately, I am finding that the cut will drift to the outside as it nears the end of cut. At first I thought the cause might be the part lifting in the vise but that is not it. So I wonder if it is blade tension, not enough control in the downfeed or just a bad blade. I do find the hydraulic downfeed set up to be touchy so I try to set that at the very minimum. What do you folks think? Thanks for any help!
 
Can be caused by all of the above. Check tension. Set blade guides + .001" wider than blade. Check downfeed pressure. Check blade for wear on one side.
 
The first thing to change on a bandsaw that isn't behaving is the blade. Make sure the new one has the right number of teeth for the job. Only then can you start making adjustments.
 
Yes, could be dull blade and things already mentioned. But it could also be the way the blade guides are adjusted, and the condition of the guide bearings. Bandsaw manuals typically have a section showing how to adjust the guides to keep the blade cutting both straight and square. So, if a new blade doesn't help, you might want to check your manual. You can usually find one on-line if you don't have one. Doesn't even need to be the exact manual for your saw, they all work pretty much the same way as long as the design is basically the same...

Ted
 
Dull blade, chip brush not chip brushing, outfeed side lower than indeed (vice) side (if part is heavy), coolant not slippery enough. If it is just at the bottom the guides might still be ok adjusted- that shows up as a parabolic curve from about 1/2 blade width down. Blade tension, more is better- shows as a width of cut curve more.
Change blade before going after the harder troubleshooting.
 
The first thing to change on a bandsaw that isn't behaving is the blade. Make sure the new one has the right number of teeth for the job. Only then can you start making adjustments.

Like ^^ he said. CHANGE THE BLADE! The dull blade will continue through the stock drifting bit by bit. But at some point it will be so angled that the drift will magnify the farther it goes through the material.
My horz was cutting acme shafts 5 at a time, started cutting them +- a stupid amount. But cut bar stock OK. Changed blade and all was well.
 
Thanks for the comments! It is a fresh blade so maybe more tension is needed. I've never messed with the guides as it worked fine as they were. Also, I cut dry as there is no coolant plumbing and I don't believe it ever had any.
 
Thanks for the comments! It is a fresh blade so maybe more tension is needed. I've never messed with the guides as it worked fine as they were. Also, I cut dry as there is no coolant plumbing and I don't believe it ever had any.


Jeezm! Even I don't cut dry on the horizontal....

Blade life must suck....
 
So you run 20 ft slower dry and you buy a few extra blades. If you cut much tubing, its better than even trade off compared to mopping the floor. My saw is occasional use. I very rarely use the coolant.
 
So you run 20 ft slower dry and you buy a few extra blades. If you cut much tubing, its better than even trade off compared to mopping the floor. My saw is occasional use. I very rarely use the coolant.

For sure. I've got an Ellis 1800. It cuts dry or optional air blast that I didn't purchase. Blade life is very good, 'cept when I didn't clamp that darn round stock tight. My Peerless was wet and messy....and stinky!
 








 
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