Johnson Model B band saw
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  1. #1
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    Default Johnson Model B band saw

    I'm putting together a garage workshop to do some metal fabrication maybe make some garage cabinets, etc. I'm looking for an older but well built horizontal band saw. I have budget and space constraints. I'm looking at a Johnson Model B that seems to fill the bill. Any opinions on the that machine?

  2. #2
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    I have one and am quite fond of it. I actually stepped down from a Johnson J and have been quite happy.

    As with any tool it is all about condition. Points of weakness are the gear box and the hydraulic cylinder to control the downward feed. The gear box would be a dealbreaker, the cylinder you can work around.

    Pete

  3. #3
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    I used a BW many years ago.We cut anything that would fit. An example 3" 303 SS round in 3/8" discs. I could cut 30 to 50 per blade. If it is setup right it will cut a very straight line until you lose the blade set. Replace the blade and carry on...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickerdave View Post
    I'm putting together a garage workshop to do some metal fabrication maybe make some garage cabinets, etc. I'm looking for an older but well built horizontal band saw. I have budget and space constraints. I'm looking at a Johnson Model B that seems to fill the bill. Any opinions on the that machine?
    I bought one last summer, and am just finishing painting the coolant tray, and the blade covers. I rebuilt the hydraulic cylinder, and the coolant pump, though can't use the coolant in my unheated shop. I just measured the speeds today to determine the blade fpm for each setting/ Mine is 47, 81, and 152FPM. I haven't used it much yet. Seems to be very well built for it's size.
    Jim

  5. #5
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    Dave, I have the bigger model J and a smaller Wells Mfg. band saws. I reworked both of them. The feed cylinders I plumed in a Parker needle valve with one way check/adjustable down feed. The coolant tank got a deeper sump for a Little Giant pump wired to the motor switch. Then put 2 Locline valves & nozzels, 1 in front & the other to squirt some juice to the blade in front of the rear rollers to keep the chips from tracking around the saw. Put a coffee can down there to catch the fillings. Another add on was a flex coil air hose & a Harbor Freight air gun to wash the saw down. Don't forget to get a good vari-pitch blade.

  6. #6
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    Sorry the Parker needle valve is a free flow one way /adjustable down.

  7. #7
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    I have had both the the Johnson B and the Kalamazoo 7". The Kalamazoo is very similar but better designed. The model B always has broken and repaired guide arms and the frame is not constructed (trianglated) as well, and the guide arm track is inferior.

    I have never seen a Kalamazoo 7" guide arm broken including the saw I dug out from underneath a scrap pile.

  8. #8
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    I'm new to the forum, but came across this thread after buying a Johnson B1 last week and googling for info on it. The one I bought is useable as is, but needs some TLC (the damping cylinder is off the saw, the auto shutoff has been bypassed, a couple of other items need attention). I paid $150 for it, in case WickerDave is trying to figure out how much to spend. I think it is one of the first ones made - there is no coolant tray, just three heavy legs and a solid base (and of course the saw and the large sheetmetal surround).
    I'll post a picture next week.
    Does anyone have any information about a manual for this model? Any photos of the correct setup for the damping cylinder and shut-off mechanism?

    Thanks!

    Rogge

  9. #9
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    Default PDF of Kysor Johnson Model B manual

    Rogge
    Call Dake at the number below, just last week they emailed a pdf manual to me within 10 minutes. It is too large to post here. They still supply some parts for this saw. Let me know is you need photos, my saw is mostly still together (getting ready to paint it)


    Dake — a JSJ business
    724 Robbins Road
    Grand Haven, MI 49417

    Customer Relations
    Tel: 800.937.3253


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