Kalamazoo 7AW Questions

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• May 22, 2013

• #1

First off. Here is a link to the manuals if anyone needs them. With permission from Clausing.

I just picked this this saw and it is in 'not so working' order. It does fit in my small shop!

It would be great if anyone has pictures of what the belt tension adjustment and belt guard is supposed to look like. Here are the parts I have on the motor tension adjustor. Is this tooless quick change using the weight of the motor for tension? I will have to make a guard.



Someone cut off the stop bar. I am not sure if there was a pin holding it in or a threaded bolt? I need a stop bar and figured I would ask before I drill whatever is in there out.



Mobilgear 634 does not seem to be around anymore. Any know issues with using Mobil DTE light Iso VG 32? I have been using this for everything.

Thanks for your help!

Bill

 

gregoryd

Hot Rolled

Joined

Jun 30, 2007

Location

Mass

• May 22, 2013

• #2

If you can't find images on the PM me your email and I'll send you pictures this weekend.

Belt tension is the weight of the motor resting on a spring that you can add more or less pressure by turning a knob on that threaded rod (adjust preload)

 

aerodark

Titanium

Joined

Feb 15, 2008

Location

Eugene OR USA

• May 22, 2013

• #3

The stop bar is held by a grub screw. I made a stop end out of aluminum and cut off the head of a 3/8-16 SHCS and filed a full radius on the end where the head was. Then ran a nut on the threads to lock the bolt in place on the block. The rod was made out of 4140 PHT turned ground and polished. I bored the hole for the rod to slide easily and kerfed the bore so I could use one SHCS for quick positioning.

I sold my Kalamazoo 7AD when I moved back to the wet side of WA. I have enough of the Mobil 634 to fill the gearbox on your saw. I remember it was spendy. Offer for the pint?

 

aerodark

Titanium

Joined

Feb 15, 2008

Location

Eugene OR USA

• May 22, 2013

• #4

Buy 112184 Mobil Lubricant SHC® 634 Gear Oil from UseEnco

 

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crrmeyer

Stainless

Joined

Nov 10, 2006

Location

Southern California

• May 25, 2013

• #5

Linlk to photos of belt guard of CL ad (not mine)

HORIZONTAL BAND SAW

 

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• May 26, 2013

• #6

crrmeyer said:

Linlk to photos of belt guard of CL ad (not mine)

HORIZONTAL BAND SAW

Click to expand...

I should have bought this one. It works.

 

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• May 26, 2013

• #7

Thanks for the info.

I was able to get the hydraulics somewhat rebuilt (I at least now know what seals I need). I just used the DTE light oil in the gearbox. IF it works in my 2 hp lathe gearbox, it should work this gearbox.

Upon trying to cut some material to make the belt cover, I found out the half nut was toast so I made my own. I need a saw asap.

 

aerodark

Titanium

Joined

Feb 15, 2008

Location

Eugene OR USA

• May 26, 2013

• #8

I would go with the recommended gear oil. Hydraulic oil is way too thin methinks.

 

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• May 27, 2013

• #9

aerodark said:

I would go with the recommended gear oil. Hydraulic oil is way too thin methinks.

Click to expand...

The oil is a bearing and circulating oil. It is okay for gears. They recommend it for the headstock and apron of my lathe. I used it in my old HF saw gearbox for two years with no noticeable wear.

I am going with this because my standard operating practise is to cut 1-4 pieces, go machine them, and cut 1-4 more a few hours later. The machine never really warms up.

 

HelicopterJohn

Cast Iron

Joined

Jun 2, 2006

Location

Seffner, Florida

• Jun 6, 2013

• #10

Stop Bar

Hi Bill,

"Someone cut off the stop bar. I am not sure if there was a pin holding it in or a threaded bolt? I need a stop bar and figured I would ask before I drill whatever is in there out."

My stop bar housing has a threaded hole on the bottom side with a socket head screw inserted to tighten the bar in the correct position.

If you would like some pictures of mine just send me a PM with your e-mail and I will send them to you.

John

 

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• Jun 12, 2013

• #11

Hi John,

I just got back in town yesterday and will be sawing multiple pieces very soon.

I cannot send to your PM box, but it sounds pretty simple. I just could not figure out what was holding what is left of the cross pin in place. I will try an easy out or just drill it out.

Thx!

 

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• Jun 12, 2013

• #12

Here is how I did the half nut.

 

V

Verticut

Aluminum

Joined

Jun 27, 2007

Location

Toronto

• Jun 12, 2013

• #13

Don't use the DTE light oil unless you want to wear out year gearbox in days or weeks. The gearbox is a worm drive not spur gears like in a lathe. The high friction will cause rapid wear on the bronze worm gear. Use the right oil. For $20.00 it is cheap versus a gearbox repair.

 

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Willysnowman

Aluminum

Joined

Nov 13, 2010

Location

San Francisco, USA

• Jun 12, 2013

• #14

Ahhh... Much higher forces on the gear. Makes sense.

I already bought the oil from Enco. I will put it in.

Thanks!