Hello this is my second post I didn’t want to wait to post this it took me for ever to figure out how to post pictures. I wanted to do some maintenance on a kysor Johnson model j it runs just fine it was from a guy that built parts for beoing. I wanted to open the gearbox up to replace the oil looks like there is a fill plug and no drain plug I would also like to do anything else that should be done for maintenance any help would be appreciated thank you benjie
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Kysor Johnson model j
- Thread starter Benjie
- Start date
- Replies 13
- Views 2,706
Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
Take the gearbox off and drain the oil out the filter/fill hole. Flush it if you want. I wouldn't suggest opening it up unless there is an issue. Mine sounded like an old meat grinder, so I replaced all the bearings and seals. Made a new shaft for the worm wheel and replaced the spur gear.
Drain and replace the oil and if there's no issue, run it as is.
Ted
Drain and replace the oil and if there's no issue, run it as is.
Ted
Took the gearbox apart the seals were shot leaky. the worm gear and the worm looked like new the spur gear is a little rough probably from the chips for years. The keyway on the worm gear shaft is pretty bad. The guy at dake said the machine was from 75’ to 77’. Now I’ve got to get old bearings out and new in I don’t have a press so got to figure that out.
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Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
I bought a new pinion gear from McMaster Carr. Bought the bearings new, old stock from eBay. Saved a lot of money this way (I'm a hobbyist). Got the seals from Amazon; fit and work great. If money isn't a concern, buy from Drake. But it will cost you $100-150 additional or more.
Ted
Ted
Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
Also, the bronze worm looks discolored. This could have been caused by someone using the wrong EP (extreme pressure) gear lube and it was not copper safe. This gearbox should use copper safe lube.
Ted
Ted
Thanks for the replies. could someone help me out on the correct oil seals for the gearbox there are 2 of them they look to be 20mm x 47mm x 9mm or 10mm mybe the seals on the saw are beat up bad I think someone used a hammer to install them I can’t figure out what the depth of them is I would like to put on the size they came with or if someone has a part number not the dake number but seal number. Bearings look to be (3) 6204z and (1) 6303z also getting some mobile shc 634 to fill the gearbox I am going to be replacing the gaskets the spur gear and worm shaft as well thank you for any help Benjie
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Forgot to ask this question the bearings in the gearbox say they are z bearings but they are shielded on both sides should I be replacing with zz bearings to keep the grease in not sure what the originals were mybe it does not matter since they have an oil seal keeping debris out thank you. Benjie
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Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
Here's what I used on mine and everything worked out fine. Shielded bearings are what was original on mine but one of the bearing I got was sealed, but that's fine.
Here's the manual I used for reference. You can look those old bearing numbers up for cross reference.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/4162/5253.pdf
The only place I could find reasonably priced seals of that design. These work great.
Oil seals (2):
EAI Oil Seal 20mm X 47mm X 7mm TC Double Lip w/Spring. Metal Case w/Nitrile Rubber Coating: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I got the bearings new/old stock from eBay to save a lot of money.
Bearings - there are three types used:
(1) 204KLD2 Fafnir New Single Row Ball Bearing
(1) FAFNIR 303KDD Bearing
(2) FAFNIR/TIMKEN 204PP DS BEARING
Here's the gear oil I used. It's yellow metal safe.
Amazon.com: CRC Multi-Purpose Gear Oil 85W90 SAE-Gallon (24239), 1 Gallon (128 Ounces) : Automotive
Ted
Here's the manual I used for reference. You can look those old bearing numbers up for cross reference.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/4162/5253.pdf
The only place I could find reasonably priced seals of that design. These work great.
Oil seals (2):
EAI Oil Seal 20mm X 47mm X 7mm TC Double Lip w/Spring. Metal Case w/Nitrile Rubber Coating: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I got the bearings new/old stock from eBay to save a lot of money.
Bearings - there are three types used:
(1) 204KLD2 Fafnir New Single Row Ball Bearing
(1) FAFNIR 303KDD Bearing
(2) FAFNIR/TIMKEN 204PP DS BEARING
Here's the gear oil I used. It's yellow metal safe.
Amazon.com: CRC Multi-Purpose Gear Oil 85W90 SAE-Gallon (24239), 1 Gallon (128 Ounces) : Automotive
Ted
Thank you Ted interesting my bearings for the gearbox are (3) 6204zz and one 6303zz. 3 of my drive wheel bearings are shot so I am going to replace all 4 it is hard for me to read any of the numbers on them could if someone knows could you let me know my guess is they are 14136a thanks for the help just trying to fix all the problems with this saw the bearings on the drive wheels are original have the green paint on them. Benjie
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Technical Ted
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2017
Yes, my wheel bearings are X-Timken 14136A. You'll need new seals as well. I didn't need to replace mine, but I wrote down the part number for future reference in case needed. The 204KLD2 Fafnir Single Row Ball Bearing has an internal seal on one side. Maybe your saw is different than mine, or someone has been inside it before and replaced it with a standard 204??? It might be a design change since I have 3 different owners manuals; 2 show 3 different bearings and 1 shows 2 different bearings like you are seeing in your saw. Here's a picture of the other style bearing my saw uses.
Ted[
ATTACH=CONFIG]327508[/ATTACH]
Ted[
ATTACH=CONFIG]327508[/ATTACH]
Attachments
Laurentian
Stainless
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2008
- Location
- Canada
Great saws, we're on our second one after 50 years. Gave the old one to a friend as it was no longer OSHA compliant. Got the newer updated one complete with all the yellow guards near new at local auction. Dake has a .pdf owners manual online for you saw.