Lathe Chuck, how to finish repair?

Cushman 13 in. chuck was rusty and frozen, now apart and cleaned up. I’ll put grease all over pinions, might fill the 3 pinion cavities full of grease. But what’s best way to finish this job? There was no sealant evident anywhere on disassembly. and it doesn’t look like there’s any space for sealant. Just grease moving parts and re-assemble?

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When we had coolant on the lathe, I tore it apart to clean yearly. Not so bat without coolant now. Don't grease the scroll, pisses off co-workers.
Bronze chips still seem to get inside and jam up.
Last time I milled a couple slots for pry bars to help split it.

Dave

Thx, yes splitting it was a challenge. I removed the zerk giving access to scroll, whacked scroll with brass drift thru zerk hole to split it. Maybe a little white lith spray grease would be ok.

There are several brands of grease that are designed for lathe chucks. One key requirement is that the operator does not get a facefull of lubricant when the chuck spins up to speed.

https://www.amazon.com/CHUCK-EEZ-Ch...uck+grease&qid=1614479069&s=industrial&sr=1-2

Toolmex TMX Chuck Lathe Grease Lubricant 16oz Tube Kitagawa South Bend Bison | eBay

Personally, I use "Die Grease" that I picked up somewhere decades ago. It is very thick and seems to work OK. I apply it by hand when I am putting a chuck back together.

Larry

L Vanice said:

Personally, I use "Die Grease" that I picked up somewhere decades ago. It is very thick and seems to work OK.

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Should do VERY well!

Old Skewl flywheel & crank punch-press dies of "a while ago" had to work at some challenging reversal G-forces and insane cycle-counts at THEIR "day Job". DAMHIKT

Progress? Hear tell that more modern gear sprays stuff here and there - release agents as well as lubes - and automagically. And has been so-doing for a long time, arredy, instead of hand-greasing-up?

Otherwise, we've all dealt with enough morbid grease one could figure:

"DIE, grease!"

...was a command directive from whatever minor diety or daemon is in charge of "epochs" of anti-galling and slipperiness-NOT! Grease being "mortal" so to speak, with a finite life-span before degrading or becoming fouled by biologicals as make a meal of it.

Mind.. I take it you are referring to a grease for the dieset & guides, not for extending the life of the cutting-edges of the punches themselves, such as:

Punch-Easy(R) Lubricant | Cleveland Punch & Die

Mill a small slot on opposite sides so a screwdriver or prybar can be used to wedge it apart next time.
Bil lD

I used to work under a bitter old UAW millwright who insisted that WD40 was the thing to use on the 80-ton ironworker. I finally managed to get him out of my life after 8 years, and moved on to a *much* better shop. Looking back, I'm surprised I didn't start drinking again.

FWIW, I prefer the copper/nickel never-seize.

pavt said:

I used to work under a bitter old UAW millwright who insisted that WD40 was the thing to use on the 80-ton ironworker. I finally managed to get him out of my life after 8 years, and moved on to a *much* better shop. Looking back, I'm surprised I didn't start drinking again.

FWIW, I prefer the copper/nickel never-seize.

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Going.. for a CHANGE - on what makers of "this and that" SAY I am meant to utilize?

Two kinds of Moly. Two of Copper. One of Nickel... then Graphites, Lithiums, Wurth-HHS.... CRC, LPS..

WTH.. there AIN"T no "one size fits all".

Part of the shop shelving resembles a Royal Army Dispensary crossed with a US Navy paint locker and a "Chinese type medicine" store, pickled lizard's testicles, snakes eyeballs, and all!



The "Beijing Bao Fu Ling", however, is upstairs in the fridge.

About as good as it gets for burns.

I've been forced to simplify my chemical and lube collection just for financial reasons if nothing else. Last several yrs have not been real good to me.

general purpose grease: red-n-tacky EP. If it's good enough for work, it's good enough for me.
Nickel or copper anti-sieze
penetrating oil: homebrew (kerosene + USP mineral oil)
loctite red blue and green
Vactra #4 for the lathe
spindle oil, ditto
ISO46 for the gearing and apron.

Couple gallons ea of ferric chloride, muriatic acid, acetone, denatured alky, etc etc.

Just general shop supplies. Was hoping to invest in several kilos of powdered abrasives this yr, will see what happens...

pavt said:

Was hoping to invest in several kilos of powdered abrasives this yr, will see what happens...

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You could draw less unwelcome attention with ignorant baking flour, sugar.... "etc."?



Wise-ass "Sneaky Pete" Major, 90th "Repple Depple", August of '67 whilst we new arrivals awaited our in-country orders:

"Combat Engineer, huh?"

"Second-generation at it, Sir."

"Bet you don't know how much baking flour it take to flatten a XX,000 sq foot building, Lootenant!"

"XX pounds, Major. You've forgotten whom it is teaches y'all that field-expedient stuff?"

"Bet YOU have forgotten how much dried chicken shit it takes to cut an anti-tank ditch across an enemy's route of advance?"

"CHICKEN SHIT?"

"Ain't it all?"

"But it's easier to find FAST .. in a backward cluster-f**k of a country.."

"That's why we teach it."
"We HAVE what we need, nearly always ... for a Triple-Nickel-40"

"Special Forces? Almost never have what they need."
"That's why they call you "Special" ain't it?


Nuthin' ELSE to do, so we each stood a round of over-age-in grade QC-reject Korean rice beer at 5 cents an only-slightly rusted tin-can.

Some said it tasted like ass, and produced an even WORSE hang-over?

Took at least the first part of that "on faith", given I hadn't had any such point of reference. Yet.

Thank God in her infinite mercy.