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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    I agree, that's often the problem with them Dual, ...BOTOH the OP didn't say what dia' he wanted to part.
    Nor if it might be thinwall tube o/e cavity at the parting line... a beloved case, relative to solids, anyway.

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    Great idea Thermite.
    McMaster sells hss blades.


    McMaster number - 3990A43
    McMaster-Carr
    21" Long Multipurpose Blade for 2-3/8" Stroke Hacksaw with Accidental Start-Up Prevention,
    HSS BLADE BODY.... 1/16” diameter.
    16.73 per blade
    One blade will do the trick..

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    In post 7 Limy mentions circular tools. You need to look in to this,a heck of a lot of tool,just re-grind the top and away you go again.
    They might be the bees knees, but their Web page has no useful description of how they work so how would a buyer know what to order? Or is it normal to buy expensive tooling and then run experiments on it to see what it does?

    metalmagpie

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    Quote Originally Posted by tim9lives View Post
    Great idea Thermite.
    McMaster sells hss blades.


    McMaster number - 3990A43
    McMaster-Carr
    21" Long Multipurpose Blade for 2-3/8" Stroke Hacksaw with Accidental Start-Up Prevention,
    HSS BLADE BODY.... 1/16” diameter.
    16.73 per blade
    One blade will do the trick..
    I have 50 or 60 in 18" @ an average of well under ten bucks. They all fit my Kasto, but you don't need to care about length when cutting them up for various parting tools - some of which may be shaped to clean-up a potential burr, one side of the other, even both (fishmouth 'em) with a bit of luck.

    Pre-shaped circular blanks were mentioned. Looked good in a catalog, proper angle built-in and "always right, always there" with but a light top-grind. so Dave bought such for the HS shop.

    Tried those for threading. No guts to 'em, even on a lowly 3/4 HP Logan or SB 10", wedge-not-rocker lantern TP.

    Wasn't a total disaster, but close enough not want to waste any further time on 'em.
    YMMV, but ask the man who runs one - not the pretty pitcher-books.

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    ....Aaaaand the Op hasn't come back yet....:

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    ....Aaaaand the Op hasn't come back yet....:
    Neither, so far, has the first pint of blood I ever donated.

    Shared buffet, PM can be. No need to go hungry for long.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Neither, so far, has the first pint of blood I ever donated.

    Shared buffet, PM can be. No need to go hungry for long.
    The suggestions can be going so far down a rabbit hole that the Op can't even recognize, let alone
    use.

    Need an update with more info to firm up how to accomplish eh ?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    The suggestions can be going so far down a rabbit hole that the Op can't even recognize, let alone
    use.

    Need an update with more info to firm up how to accomplish eh ?
    Y'all oughta git off that drawing board and go try parting-off various materials.

    No reliable source of HSS PHS blades? Try HCS. Bustid hand files work too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Neither, so far, has the first pint of blood I ever donated.
    That is a bloody good answer

  10. Likes Oldwrench liked this post
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post
    They might be the bees knees, but their Web page has no useful description of how they work so how would a buyer know what to order? Or is it normal to buy expensive tooling and then run experiments on it to see what it does?

    metalmagpie
    that was my impression too on the Soma circular, even the drawing is impossible to see and my screen isn't small. Not buying an expensive tool with no description of how it works or even an exploded drawing. Sounds interesting though

    I appreciate all the replies, but I'm still going with my plan from page 1, The Arthur Warner stuff. I mean the guy was a WW2 veteran, was making HSS tools before i was born, and they offer a 1/32" blade that fits the same tool (comes with 1/16). What's not to like

    this is already miles ahead of where i'm at for $100.
    arthur-warner-micro-cut-off.jpg

    We don't go too deep, 1" round plastic tops. The biggest problem with my current import garbage tool is blade is cheap, likely not even up to M2 quality, and worse only partially supported. Goes dull quickly, shifts around in deep cuts. done with that

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    If having a surface grinder you might experiment with putting on a top radius to a parting blade so the cutting edge has the effect of a positive rake angle. We made parting blades with a 1/4" to a 1" radius on the top edge. Some we made with this scallop and the exit angle going to one side with wishing chip ribbon to go a certain direction.
    Yes some guys do this by hand on a bench grinder to a blade or tool bit.
    Some parting blades we made with side taper going down both side of perhaps 1 ot 2 degrees.
    Others we made with flat sides bit wider at the top to the width needed, so perhaps the sides below the tool with would be flat ground undercut .005 or so.
    Being exact square to the part and at the best position to center is very important.
    I used a cold air gun for some grinding..that might help for plastics parting.(?)
    Cold Air Guns, Nozzles | Industrial Spot Air Cooling Equipment
    i like the T-shaped blades on my larger cut-off tools, but i'll play around with tapering the sides if the Arthur Warner stuff doesn't already come that way. Square to chuck is definitely important with thin blades.
    On the cold air guns, is it really more effective than coolant?
    if so , be glad to get away from the coolant on the open lathes with no guards/doors, spray everywhere

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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    That is a bloody good answer
    Wasn't always that bloody.

    November of '64, USAF Reserve sent about a dozen of we lead Cadets who'd figured to go "advanced" and become actual pilots - 'stead of blanket and bomb counting clerks - from Morgantown, WV to Andrews AFB for Flight Physicals the next day. Turned loose in the Officer's Club with guest privileges, there was nothing for it but to try to drink a grizzled old USAF Major under the bar. Which I accomplished.

    Next morning, a Medic draws a BIG canister of blood. Three of them, I think it was. And I black out, hit the floor.

    Come to with a 'real Doctor", stern look, lecturing me:

    "Well, CADET, you'll be fine. Only problem was that somehow a small quantity of blood had found its way into your ALCOHOL system!"

    Passed the Flight physical, too, that morning, despite the unexplained blood intrusion.
    Seems "alcohol systems" were standard aviator issue, invention of wings onward.

    Going Regular Army instead of USAF, following year, probably saved my life. By the time I could again AFFORD even a beer, I'd started to lost the taste for it in favour of... well..... y'know wimmin'? They tend to hold THEIR liquor.. by the hair and ears.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolznthings View Post
    I have their cut off tool and it works very well. 1/6" and 1/32" blades.

    https://www.arwarnerco.com/
    And they will take the Nikole carbide inserts if you need that type of cutter.

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    just wrap up this thread, i finally used my Arthur Warner tool last week on standard PEEK rod, 3/8" round. Works really well with the optional 1/32" wide blade.
    The tool uses a blade with tapered sides, and the body has a matching angle on the locating face that keeps you cutting edge parallel to work piece. A small but thoughtful little detail they added. After indicating the tool in, I'm not getting any deflection the parting cut , very little heat while cutting dry, and overall really happy. It's perfect for the "up to 1" plastic parting" i was looking for and minimal material waste. After a few dozen cuts, still sharp.

    I do have some 1" PEEK- Glass filled, coming up and i will be back on my Carbide insert parting tool for that, but this little HSS tool is a keeper for all my other plastic rods.'
    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by draganm View Post
    just wrap up this thread, i finally used my Arthur Warner tool last week on standard PEEK rod, 3/8" round. Works really well with the optional 1/32" wide blade.
    The tool uses a blade with tapered sides, and the body has a matching angle on the locating face that keeps you cutting edge parallel to work piece. A small but thoughtful little detail they added. After indicating the tool in, I'm not getting any deflection the parting cut , very little heat while cutting dry, and overall really happy. It's perfect for the "up to 1" plastic parting" i was looking for and minimal material waste. After a few dozen cuts, still sharp.

    I do have some 1" PEEK- Glass filled, coming up and i will be back on my Carbide insert parting tool for that, but this little HSS tool is a keeper for all my other plastic rods.'
    thanks
    Three Mike-Foxtrot EIGHTS? Half that as to depth to centre? Truth told, I'd be tempted to lay a Jap-nese model-maker's "razor saw" of my acquaintance agin' the side of the tool block for posish - spindle motatin'

    I'd bet a single stroke would trim that PEEK rod off with less waste than 1/32" parting tool, no chatter, and easily as fast.

    YMMV

    FRP? Yah. Carbides, Cermet, diamond or such. Depending on the glass composition, yer cutting the matrix-iffied equivalent of at least "flint" grade (Silicon Dioxide AKA quartz or garnet) sandpaper.... if not Borosilicates.

  17. #36
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    Some of these small blades as said accomadate tapered blades which is a good thing only negative you will find you have to run them in the backpost as the tapered holder accomadates the blade upside down

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    Quote Originally Posted by onecut View Post
    Some of these small blades as said accomadate tapered blades which is a good thing only negative you will find you have to run them in the backpost as the tapered holder accomadates the blade upside down
    HUGE variety of "Hardinge system" toolblocks out there.

    Should be able to adapt so as to run them wide-edge up, operator side, spindle in FWD, wide-edge up, rear, spindle in REV, or even wide-edge down, operator side, spindle in REV.

    Whichever suits the slack in a given machine and plays best with other tooling or gangs-of tooling.

    ELSE fab yer own mounts. Plenty of examples of nicely-done work, "right here, on PM".


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