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lathe part advice

tcncj

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
I need some advice on how to make the following part. Since I hate lathes.:mad5:
Fairly simply part, it's a adapter for an axle (od is 130mm). It contains some bolt holes at the front.

How should I make it in the (conventional) lathe?
I was thinking about turning the front and od.
Turning the part around in a 4 jaw chuck and turning the other side?
Will this be accurate enough or should it be done in 1 op?

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"I need some advice on how to make the following part. Since I hate lathes.
Fairly simply part, it's a adapter for an axle (od is 130mm). It contains some bolt holes at the front.

How should I make it in the (conventional) lathe?
I was thinking about turning the front and od.
Turning the part around in a 4 jaw chuck and turning the other side?
Will this be accurate enough or should it be done in 1 op?"


First, please show us some sizes
Second, what is your desired accuracy ?
Third, how many ?

If your simply making one, use the 4 jaw, and just "dial it in".

shouldn't take over 5 minutes to get it dialed in.
 
"Bolt holes in the front" if the holes is anywhere other than the center I wouldn't do that in the lathe. Unless the tolerance is under .005" I'd just do the whole thing in a three jaw chuck.
 
The way you stated is OK but it takes a good 4 jaw to not have a little wobble. If the part need be perfect then having centers at both part ends and taking a finish skim between centers would be best.

Having a longer piece of stock so the whole part can be out in one chucking and then parting off the finished part is another method to make all run true.

With dial-in to a 4 jaw you can indicator feel the part in two places to see how much wobble you will have, but not much you can do except to knock-in the two checks and find best average.

Good to think about a chuck as nothing more than a multi jaw vise, It doesn't take a vise very long to get a little out of whack-same for a chuck.

Having none or very little finish stock a center drill can some times start a small tad off center, this perhaps from the drill point being a tad off center or the chuck a little off. So having zero finish stock and to not take a chance on this I 4jaw dial-in at the very part end and then tool bit spot the center and then follow with my center drill. Yes, flip the part and dial in the other end and do the same. Yes this may add 10 minuets (five a side) to the part but for not scrapping a part may be worth the time.
 
It would all depend on your tolerance. Something like this I would just make in one operation with a rougher and a part off blade to do the back side and then part off. It would also depend on the quantity. If you don't have too many you could do it in 2 operations as well with just a rougher.
 








 
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