What's new
What's new

Line Boring Bar Material

charalson

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Location
Tucson
Good morning all,

I’m going to be building a one off line boring operation in the near future and I’d like the community’s input on boring bar material. I was looking at 4140, 8620, or O-1. The bore is approximately 2” diameter spanning 4 aluminum lugs each about an inch thick and overall 12” long. Any suggestions for bar material are welcome and any heat treat as well. If I heat treat I’ll probably send it out for grinding afterwards. Thanks,

Chris.
 
JRIowa is thinking of ordinary boring bars?

I don't want to think about the price of 1.5" diameter and 28" long heavy metal bar for one-offsie line boring project :nutter:

4140, 8620, or O-1 should work the same, get the one that is easiest to find in precision grind in your size. (assuming you need a slip fit trough the support bearings)
 
all steels have about the same youngs modulas [ how flexable ] so you want to look for surface finish and straightness hardness may help galling so maybe thompsen shafting
 
I plan on drilling and reaming several holes before hardening and then silver solder or braze in toolbit sleeves, the kind that have the set screw behind the toolbit to feed out.
 
I plan on drilling and reaming several holes before hardening and then silver solder or braze in toolbit sleeves, the kind that have the set screw behind the toolbit to feed out.

Small diameter bar as such things go if the bore itself is but 2" ID.
12" plus-plus for grasping length is not atrocious, either.

I'd look for factory-made, used if cash was that tight. Gots to be other "DIY" needed that has a better payback on yer time?
 
I would suggest 4140 ht TPG, and just broach the square holes, tap
the holding screw hole as well.
At 28-32 Rc, you'll be able to drill, broach & tap it, yet it will
be tough for in service usage.

Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeasy.
 
I would suggest 4140 ht TPG, and just broach the square holes, tap
the holding screw hole as well.
At 28-32 Rc, you'll be able to drill, broach & tap it, yet it will
be tough for in service usage...

My thoughts exactly; this doesn't strike me as being a super heavy-duty application. Worst case scenario is that you've gotta
make lighter cuts to avoid chatter and/or deflection...

...Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeasy.

Seriously? :D:D
 
Something must be off somewhere in the original OP description. He said 12" OAL and Mattij said a 28" long bar. 12" is not that long for store bought bar. 28" bar is a whole nuther ball of wax. He did say line bore, tho. I am confused.
 
Chrome plated cylinder rod material works particuarly well for line boring bars as it makes galling almost a non-issue.
It is also centreless ground, so is usually quite round/straight.
4140 would be best, but given that it is a one-off in aluminium, I'm sure you could make do with 1045.

With regards to toolbits, using a small CCMT style boring bar works quite well, this saves having to worry about using the square sleeves or broaching. (the set screw will align the tool as it is tightened onto the flat of the boring bar).
Using the small boring bar also means the hole in the line boring bar can be drilled on centre, where as square tools would typically require the holes to be drilled off-centre.
 
Lets see if I got this right. 4 lugs, 1" thick and 12" between the two outside lugs. Must be on a piece of earth moving equipment. My original thinking was that this was a piece that was going to bored in a lathe and the "line boring" was just a misnomer.
 
Chrome plated cylinder rod material works particuarly well for line boring bars as it makes galling almost a non-issue.
It is also centreless ground, so is usually quite round/straight.
4140 would be best, but given that it is a one-off in aluminium, I'm sure you could make do with 1045.

With regards to toolbits, using a small CCMT style boring bar works quite well, this saves having to worry about using the square sleeves or broaching. (the set screw will align the tool as it is tightened onto the flat of the boring bar).
Using the small boring bar also means the hole in the line boring bar can be drilled on centre, where as square tools would typically require the holes to be drilled off-centre.

CCMT style boring bar sounds good, now if someone just comes up with neat idea how to adjust the cutting depth easily.
(micro boring catridge is too obvious choice)
 
CCMT style boring bar sounds good, now if someone just comes up with neat idea how to adjust the cutting depth easily.
(micro boring catridge is too obvious choice)

Unless your boring a welded up repair bore, then the ability
to swap in a piece of ground HSS will help immensely.
 
Everyone,

Thank you for the suggestions and opinions. I’m going to go with 4140 material for the bar and then send out for heat treat and finish grind. As Monarchist eluded to, I’m prohibited from giving more details in order to protect the confidentiality of my customer, but just know that the bore has to be done in-situ. Thanks again,

Chris.
 








 
Back
Top